Unhappy With Izula

B

Bighaze51

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Dec 26, 2012
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He guys, just curious. Am I the only one I the world who is unhappy with my Izula? I love everything about this knife except the edge retention. It will just not stay sharp no matter what I do. I've sharpened it all the way through to my 12k Chinese natural stone and religiously stropped it with CROX and bare leather paying careful attention to remove the burr. I've been trying and trying but I'm losing my faith in this one. Don't get me wrong, I would trust my life with this knife but I feel like I'm spending way too much time trying to maintain the edge on this thing. At this point I'm ready to sell it and move on to something else.
 
how high is the edge angle? could it be that the bevel is too shallow? also gotta make sure not to round the edge when you strop.
 
Remember, its 1095, its not going to have the retention of more modern steels. Its forté is in toughness/impact resistance, which is why it is so popular in bushcraft knives. Its ease of sharpening trades off with its ability to keep an edge.
 
I'm surprised that you're having a tough time sharpening it. I've got a few 1095 ESEEs and while edge retention isn't superb, they are very easy to sharpen (usually all it takes is a little stropping).

Are you cutting through very abrasive materials often? Perhaps that could dull the blade to a point were you'd need coarse stones.

Or maybe, although unlikely, you've got a lemon with some heat treatment issue (I had a Böker carbon steel folder once that was so soft it felt like trying to sharpen Play-Doh). You can always send it to ESEE and have them check if everything's all right.
 
I'm not having difficulty with the sharpening. It'll take a scary razor sharp edge. I'm sorry I wasn't clear on that. The problem is keeping that edge. I guess I was just expecting a little more it of it. I'm mostly cutting tape on boxes. I don't really use it to cut the cardboard because it'll kill the edge on any knife.
 
I can understand where you are coming from. I usually strop my izula every so often after use. I do find that it will lose a scary sharp edge fairly soon but maintain a useable edge or quite some time.

Nice thing is that you can basically sharpen it on anything. I used the spine of my estwing axe when I forgot my sharpening stuff once out camping. It worked to get it to a point where it was useable enough to finish fire tasks and regular camping tasks.
 
Hey Big, I'm in Lexington. I love the HT on ESEE's stuff and don't have any problems with edge retention. What are you comparing it to that you feel it isn't keeping the edge well? I've got knives with all sorts of different steels and they all act differently, but my ESEE stuff is pretty great where 1095 is concerned.
 
Sulaco said:
Hey Big, I'm in Lexington. I love the HT on ESEE's stuff and don't have any problems with edge retention. What are you comparing it to that you feel it isn't keeping the edge well? I've got knives with all sorts of different steels and they all act differently, but my ESEE stuff is pretty great where 1095 is concerned.
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Good question that I would like to know the answer to. 1095 is not really meant for a scary sharp edge. It can get one and loose it but should keep a decent usable edge for most all task.
 
I know exactly what you are talking about. It came razor sharp from the factory but it lost its edge after cutting some paper. I stropped it and it came back to being extremely sharp but it dulled again quite easily. That's part of the reason I have only used it once.

Completely off topic, but how did you like the snow this weekend Sulaco? :D
 
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Hey, small world. Well, compared to my Mora, hands down the mora wins for edge retention. I've got sooo many knives (bucks, spyderco, kershaw, case, nonames). I made a file knife a few years ago and it will hold it's edge all day. Now everyone, please don't take this as a stab at ESEE. I think it is a well made knife and so many people love them. I just think it isnt for me
 
Take it up with the company. Maybe they will send you a replacement. Or just go ahead and make use of the blade that you fashioned from a file. I can assure you that in general, ESEE makes some very nice, quality knives that are quite easy to sharpen.

Come to think of it, I have never had a serious problem with 1095.
 
I have no problem in sharpening my Izula yet, I have a spyderco sharpmaker. Love this little blade!
 
Is it a stainless Mora?

Mora edge-angle is ~20 inclusive, stock Izula is probably ~40. I dropped mine to 30 and have no complaints. It's only 1095 @ ~56Rc. Are you gumming up the apex with sticky tape? Folding over a burr (that'd be pretty easy to do)? *shrug*

Is it a purple Izula? If so, I'll buy it off you :cool: My eldest daughter has dibs on my green one, so the next one down asked for a purple one. She's 3 :D Wife says they'll both have to wait a few years.
 
You could try sharpening to around 400 grit, then strop to remove the burr. This will leave a toothier edge that may last a little longer on the things you are cutting.
 
Some knives cut better with a course finish, the Izula is not a slicer, that's not to say it won't get sharp or cut well but in my eyes it's geometry and design done lends itself well to a knife meant to shave and split hairs. Reprofile, raise the primary bevel and after polishing only cut soft fleshy materials and you'll get a knife that you can put a sharp edge on and it should last of you don't abuse it.

Make a thicker blade with a wide angle and you make a youth knife that you can hammer through a 2"X8" with balls and still cut an ear of corn in half.. You need to have reasonable expectations from the blade taking into consideration material, geometry and heat treat.
 
Your not the only one who isn't happy with the Izula. It's not just edge retention either. It's too thick for the length of the cutting edge in my opinion. Not a great slicer. Too short for committed push cuts. Good for prying staples out of plywood though! I'm not saying it's a terrible knife but in my opinion it doesn't deserve the cult status it's attained. I love the ESEE 3 and 6 however.
 
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T. Erdelyi said:
Some knives cut better with a course finish, the Izula is not a slicer, that's not to say it won't get sharp or cut well but in my eyes it's geometry and design done lends itself well to a knife meant to shave and split hairs. Reprofile, raise the primary bevel and after polishing only cut soft fleshy materials and you'll get a knife that you can put a sharp edge on and it should last of you don't abuse it.

Make a thicker blade with a wide angle and you make a youth knife that you can hammer through a 2"X8" with balls and still cut an ear of corn in half.. You need to have reasonable expectations from the blade taking into consideration material, geometry and heat treat.
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This is very true. I used my EDC ESEE to open a can of beans recently the Russian way (hammer). Sure, the edge rolled but no chips and no damage I couldn't fix up with a rough steel. I personally would rather have a usable steel that rolls in all temperatures than something chippy that holds an edge longer. I hate chippy steels almost as much as I hate clowns. I'm sure there's some super steel that does it all (my SURVIVE! 3V comes close), but for the money I like properly heat treated 1095. Alot.
 
I've reprofiled the edge to around 30 inclusive and with a 40 microbevel. So it will slice like crazy for a little while. My mora is a carbon steel model. I agree though, I was just expecting too much. This knife was designed for outdoors heavy use. It's not for me. If I could get this exact blade shape an design in s30v or something similar, my edc fixed blade quest would be complete.
 
They make a stainless model now if I'm not mistaken, I have to go look, I'll be right back...
 
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