Uniform Sharpness

65535

65535

Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Messages
3,736
I have been using my week old SPyderco Ultra Fine Whet Stone for well 1 week now, and I have noticed A) the factory edge seems to be uneven near the butt of the blade and B) when using my hone the entire edge becomes polished razor sharp but the uneven section stays burred and has the factory grind on it, a rough machined grind while all my work is polished and clean. Is this normal where the butt of the blade is comparatively dull, it'll cut you like no other, but the rest of the blade is razor shaving sharp.

This is a BM 156BT and I am assuming that this is just uneven grind from the factory that needs to be worked out, and would be a good job for a coarse DMT or similar stone, I like long lasting tools. I have a few Old Old Oil stones but they are really coarse and semi fine, but heavily diveted and I doubt they will do much for the blade. So how do I work with this? I have a similar problem on my M16-13T but I am currently blaming that on months of using a small pocket sized triangle sharpening ceramic.
 
Yes, that is not uncommon that the factory edge is less than perfect. A DMT would work well, especially since it needs no lubrication and is light, so that you can lean it against the Sharpmaker rods and use it just like a Sharpmaker if you are not so experienced with freehanding. Eventually, freehanding is more efficient since you can place more weight on the blade during heavy reprofiling (or rebeveling as Bill insists).
 
I have noticied it personally when grinding on the belt sander. You will really notice it on kitchen knives with large bolsters.

-Cliff
 
Ok, thanks for all the info, I am free handing, and prefer that, you get a better feel for what you are doing. At some point I will pick up a dmt coarse and jstu clean the blade up.
 
65535 said:
Ok, thanks for all the info, I am free handing, and prefer that, you get a better feel for what you are doing. At some point I will pick up a dmt coarse and jstu clean the blade up.
Click to expand...

If you already have one, you can always try a file. It's not as fine as a stone/diamond plate but it gives you much more control then a grinder (for those like me who are inexperienced with grinders).
 
The base of the blade is often simply incompletely ground. I've seen this on the last several Spyderco folders I've purchased. Not only are the bevels a bit obtuse at the base of the blade, but the grind line at the base is not in line with the main edge bevels. It makes it difficult to put a uniform edge at the base of the blade.

My solution has been to use a Dremel to cut a small sharpening choil at the base of the blade. The standard dremel cutoff wheel produces about a 3/32" width choil with a single cut - wider if you desire - to a depth just under the edge line. It will be a whole lot easier to finish the edge bevels uniformly with a sharpening choil.

Hope this helps!
 
The 156CSK already has a small choil, I just need to get a rougher stone to clean up the edge, then polish it with my SC Ultra Fine Cermic hone.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top