Unstabalized wooden handles: How do you seal them - and why?

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

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Mar 19, 2007
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I have a few unstabalized knives with wooden handles - I want to seal them and maintain them as they are used primarily as bushcraft style knives (i.e. wet weather and dirt).

What process would you go through to prepare them to be sealed (Sand to what grit? Buff? Polish?)?

What would you use to seal it (oil, synthetic, natural...)?


And why do you think your methods are proper?

Thanks,

TF
 
One I get mine sanded down to the shape and feel that I like, I coat my handles with polyurethane. You don't need, or want, to sand down the wood to a high polish, because you want the polyurethane to be absorbed into the wood. Just sand the handle enough to remove any splinters. I use up to ten thin coats on some of my handles. Anyways, once its dried, you can then use wet 2000 grit sandpaper to get the fine polish you want.

I've also heard of people using super glue and clear coat.
 
Lacquer is a very POOR exterior finish..not good around moisture. Spar varnish is good...look for wet coatings used in the boat biz. Steel wool will discolor a lot of wood and particles will lodge in wood pores...use at risk on wood.
 
Larry D. Davis said:
Lacquer is a very POOR exterior finish..not good around moisture. Spar varnish is good...look for wet coatings used in the boat biz. Steel wool will discolor a lot of wood and particles will lodge in wood pores...use at risk on wood.
Click to expand...

Larry, if you wanted the spar varnish to really penetrate, what would you thin it with? Turpentine?
- Thanks
 
I would go with a particular manufactures recommendation as there are several. Google "spar varnish" and quite a bit comes up including comparisons with other exterior products. Years past I used spar varnish on wooden gold mining equipment...tough stuff...and would make an attractive user knife handle.
 
I have not used spar varnish on a handle, but have used it on some outdoor furniture.

The McClosky's brand says to thin with paint thinner 1:1 for the first coat.
I DID NOT do this the first time I used it and after about a year, the beautiful golden finish on my picnic table started peeling off like fruit leather.
 
Angus McGunnigl said:
I have not used spar varnish on a handle, but have used it on some outdoor furniture.

The McClosky's brand says to thin with paint thinner 1:1 for the first coat.
I DID NOT do this the first time I used it and after about a year, the beautiful golden finish on my picnic table started peeling off like fruit leather.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Good to know.:thumbup:
 
Larry D. Davis said:
I would go with a particular manufactures recommendation as there are several. Google "spar varnish" and quite a bit comes up including comparisons with other exterior products. Years past I used spar varnish on wooden gold mining equipment...tough stuff...and would make an attractive user knife handle.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Larry. You da man.
- Mitch
 
I have been using it for years on all kinds of wood.Use it to soak hatchet and hammer heads when they dry out.
I use Tru oil gunstock finish on knife handles after penetrol.Works good.Not slippery.
 
Larry D. Davis said:
Lacquer is a very POOR exterior finish..not good around moisture. Spar varnish is good...look for wet coatings used in the boat biz. Steel wool will discolor a lot of wood and particles will lodge in wood pores...use at risk on wood.
Click to expand...

Larry made a good point about the lacquer. I may not have been clear in my thread. If you use lacquer only and get moisture underneath the finish will blush (turns cloudy white). His suggestion about spar varnish is a good one. You can get in an aerosol can. I really like to use at least a few coats of oil first to bring out the color and depth of the wood then a sealing top coat.

Larry also mentioned the steel wool. I hadn't thought about it but it should be used with care. If the residue is not removed it can cause black spots where the steel reacts to the wood. I use my air compressor to blow away any residue from the steel wool. Maybe light sanding between coats would be a safer option.
 
I know alot of gunstocks use linseed oil to help preserve the wood amd with a few coats and buffing come out with a nice shine. Would this not be good on handles? Just wondering. John
 
johnggrg said:
I know alot of gunstocks use linseed oil to help preserve the wood amd with a few coats and buffing come out with a nice shine. Would this not be good on handles? Just wondering. John
Click to expand...

I have done this with a recent knife handle. Took it to 2000 grit hand sanding, cleaned it with alcohol - let it dry completely. Then about three days of light light coats every now and again (once dry).

Thoughts on this method?

TF
 
I know I have applied many coats to my old mil surp rifles and they look great. Never sanded them. That's just a collector thing. But don't see how the sanding would hurt on the handles. As a matter of fact I did do it to a set of replacment grips on a bayonet and turned out great. Now that is a differant then doing it to unstabalized handles that was why I asked about it. John
 
Interesting and informative thread here. Does anyone out there try applying a seal under pressure to try to force it deeper into the grain ? I was at the hardware the other day, saw some "pressure treated" lumber, and wondered if a similar procedure might be applied to sealing a knife handle ???
 
Troop said:
Any recommendations ref. brand?
-Thanks!
Click to expand...

Klingspor woodworking has some on sale right now . It penetrates hard and oily wood and drys hard in the wood . I became a believer when I found out I had to use channel lock pliers to remove the cap on the can after using some .
 
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