Unusual Persian Style Fighter With Lots Of Copper

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BluesHarp

Joined
Oct 14, 2007
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I made this for a customer who wanted a singled-edge fighting knife with a kind of Persian styling. The handle is cylindrical with a little taper. The steel is sawblade steel, blade about 7.5" long, the handle and scabbard are Jatoba wood from Brazil, with a little blue Corian trim and lots of copper with fancy filework. It was fun to make, and different from anything I've ever done!
https://869789182725854870-a-wasatchmountainknives-com-s-sites.googlegroups.com/a/wasatchmountainknives.com/www/home/PersianPretty2.jpg?attachauth=ANoY7coAtWiZmgOiAY2uzcCCyr6fpuib6iNZYyoZ97v6qJzTPMJlqGH29bOGTLRDYKvrJ67UwSOSrw3X4QZB_hM7g-lCik_pwt-F2LsKlw6Va4UjQfacgoFP5ZVBzcgqIHRvGVu6-FiPKGlEGnZdb3S8XpGnF3SHLxGgs6tqADjvBgmOtDru1SItqO5p5bEdKmCPrfJUA0I8Ycqd9FQp4z0IIkg7KtVksA%3D%3D&attredirects=0

I tried to embed the photo here, but I'm not having much luck. I'm kind of new at this:
PersianPretty2.jpg
 
BluesHarp said:
I made this for a customer who wanted a singled-edge fighting knife with a kind of Persian styling. The handle is cylindrical with a little taper. The steel is sawblade steel, blade about 7.5" long, the handle and scabbard are Jatoba wood from Brazil, with a little blue Corian trim and lots of copper with fancy filework. It was fun to make, and different from anything I've ever done!
https://869789182725854870-a-wasatchmountainknives-com-s-sites.googlegroups.com/a/wasatchmountainknives.com/www/home/PersianPretty2.jpg?attachauth=ANoY7coAtWiZmgOiAY2uzcCCyr6fpuib6iNZYyoZ97v6qJzTPMJlqGH29bOGTLRDYKvrJ67UwSOSrw3X4QZB_hM7g-lCik_pwt-F2LsKlw6Va4UjQfacgoFP5ZVBzcgqIHRvGVu6-FiPKGlEGnZdb3S8XpGnF3SHLxGgs6tqADjvBgmOtDru1SItqO5p5bEdKmCPrfJUA0I8Ycqd9FQp4z0IIkg7KtVksA%3D%3D&attredirects=0

I tried to embed the photo here, but I'm not having much luck. I'm kind of new at this:
PersianPretty2.jpg
Click to expand...

Beautiful! I don't see too many American makers doing wood sheaths...I really like it! Being into Asian knives, this is right up my street.

9142persian-pretty.jpg


EDIT: Just checked out your site. Thanks for the tips on using CA as a finish: going to try that on some maple burl I have that has a few too many checks and voids. :)
 
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jayinhk said:
Beautiful! I don't see too many American makers doing wood sheaths...I really like it! Being into Asian knives, this is right up my street.

9142persian-pretty.jpg


EDIT: Just checked out your site. Thanks for the tips on using CA as a finish: going to try that on some maple burl I have that has a few too many checks and voids. :)
Click to expand...

Thank you for the comments! And for checking out my site. Yes, I do some sheaths in wood, it's a lot more work so I usually only do it on showpieces and upon request. It's a little harder to make a good belt attachment on the back of a wood sheath. I've done it with a spring clip usually. On this Persian deal I made a custom copper stud for the sheath like the traditional kind where you slide the whole thing into a sash or belt and the stud keeps it from sliding out.

The Super-Glue-Finish is one of the best tips I could share with any knifemaker or woodworker. For anyone reading this that hasn't slogged through all of my website, I use a finish on all my wood handles that was suggested by a friend who makes custom pens. I've been doing it for 3 or 4 years now. I bought a large bottle of very thin cyanoacrylate (Super Glue). You can get it online, but it's easier for this technique than regular Super Glue, which is a little too syrupy. You put on rubber gloves, VERY quickly wipe the glue over the wood with a thin layer. Let it dry for a few minutes. Use steel wool and polish it down. You want the thin glue to get into the pores of the wood, it's an acrylic, and is basically stabilizing the outer layer of the wood into a hard, waterproof shell. Woods with an open grain will take many more coats. Repeat the process, polishing it glass-smooth each time. Depending on the wood, you can fill all the pores with between 2 and 10 coats. Finally, put it to a dry buffing wheel and you'll end up with the beautiful grain of the wood exposed, but a hard glassy acrylic finish similar to polyurethane. You can try it with regular super glue, but you'll find soon that it's worth buying some of the thin stuff. Before this, I would always use linseed oil finish on my wood, but I prefer this. Especially on kitchen knives with wood handles that are always getting wet. I've been using one for 5 years that still looks like the day I made it.
 
Nice looking knife! I use the CA finish as well, even on stacked leather handles. For the hand rubbed oil look, I use the ArmorAll and Tru-Oil method, very quick and a brilliant shine with th depth of an oil finish.


-Xander
 
I bought my thin CA from this site: [Rules Violation]
Juse be aware that if you don't use it up fairly quickly, and keep it capped really tight, it will start to get thick like regular Super Glue. So don't buy more than you'll use in a few months' time.
 
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