Up/down play in BM760 Lum

Charlie Mike

Charlie Mike

Sober since 1-7-14 (still a Paranoid Nutjob)
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Nov 1, 2000
Messages
28,365
I've got #990 of the first production run. I think the problem involves the stop pin to tang fit. Pushing the lock bar does nothing to tighten the play. Not that it bothers me too much. It will go to Reese to get fixed and drilled for tip up. Other that, the blade is nicely centered and no horizontal play.
 
That's strange, its gotta be either:

-Where the tang meets the lock bar
-At the pivot
-Or where the tang meets the stop pin

Are you sure the pivot is on tight enough?
 
Pivot is tight and pressure (towards the right) on lockbar does nothing, so I'm 99% sure it is the last one.
 
On the 760 there's an octagonal stop pin designed to adjust the play when necessary. Just loosen the set screw and adjust it until the play disappears. So to not scratch anything I use a Q-tip sans the cotton swab to move the pin left or right to find that sweet spot.

Hope that helps.
 
My lock bar slides a little with pressure on the spine making it seem like vertical play. Its still very new and may need some break-in time or it may have a small bit of dirt on it surface, I'm not sure though, I do know its getting sent in if it does not change. My lock bar was also resting at about 80% so I kinda knew I was going to see something wrong.

I noticed when putting pressure on the spine and watching the lock bar that while there was no movement in the locking points the lock bar itself was flexing. When pressure was removed from the spine the lock bar moved further into the locked position and the blade bumped back aginst the stop pin. I think the problem that we will find is that the relief cut at the back of the lock bar is to much and IMO shouldn't even have one.

Look closely I thought mine was the stop pin too.
 
jkarp_53 said:
On the 760 there's an octagonal stop pin designed to adjust the play when necessary. Just loosen the set screw and adjust it until the play disappears. So to not scratch anything I use a Q-tip sans the cotton swab to move the pin left or right to find that sweet spot.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

And here I am thinking my lock bar is flexing (it looked like it was) :foot:

Thanks you just fixed my knife :o
 
I sent mine into BM for blade play and because it was 90% (lock) out of the box. They replaced the blade and adjusted it (de sprung the lock bar a little is my guess) . It came back tight but started getting play again after a while because the lock bar wasn't moving over to engage fully. I dissembled it bent the lock bar a little and now it has 0 play at about 70% and seems to be settled in.

Altogether a PITA for a knife I paid 244.00 for. I love the knife though so good times, whatever. I have a tanto Zaan and I still carry the Lum quite a bit.

Now if I could just get the detent to hold the blade in. I know I'm eventually going to lose a toe or something from this thing coming open on the way down.

Ohh +1 on the Q-tip, (stop pin), needle nose do leave a mark.
 
To be honest,the troubles that people are have lately with their 760 dealing with late lock engagement and blade play,IMHO are beginning to alarm me.
 
Wonder why there are these problems. They did a good job with the framelock on the Skirmish and Alias
 
Adjustable blade stops have proven an annoyance and big failure in my experience.

Adjustable blade stops sound nice, but they seem to create more problems than they are worth and they seem to strip out or slip too often.
 
My 760 has no play and locks up great, but is so off center even after a Krein regrind the blade hits the off handle. I guess the QC just sucks on this knife.

Mike
 
gunmike1 said:
My 760 has no play and locks up great, but is so off center even after a Krein regrind the blade hits the off handle. I guess the QC just sucks on this knife.

Mike
Click to expand...

+1 The two I examined in a B&M store left me underimpressed with the QC, and as a result, I opted not to get one.

Regards,
3G
 
I looked over my pusher's 760s, a couple of early black boxed and some later regular boxed ones. Save the first production numbering, they were similar. My biggest negative is the blade tip style, kemosabe (I don't care for Tanto blades...). The second came when I perused the BM 635BK mini-Skirmish they still had in stock. Shockingly, it was perfect - and more 'my style', not to mention discounted more due to it's having been discontinued. I went back to the store a few days later to get that 635BK... it was gone.

I found a deal on a 630 Skirmish - and ordered it. Then - the next day - on our 10th anniversary, I was presented with that 635BK - my wife had bought it out from under me! A few days later, the 630 arrived. Save a little rubbing under the clips, which I removed, they were/are both perfect. I cannot state that about the 760s at the store. I A-B-ed them at the store... actually, A-B-C-ed them. The older models were great!

IMG_3648-1.jpg


The regular production 760 centered better and had no play on lock, while it had some 'up down' movement - just less than the black boxed ones. A store salesman took the production version - I couldn't blame him. My Skirmish models are more my style. I guess my shock involves the mere QC differences - the Skirmish models were both unused - and fine. What's happened with the 760s - and why drop the 630/635s?? S30V/Ti or M4/Ti - good pairs - should be great products. It aint rocket science! Speaking of which, looks like no shuttle launch today - weather - July in FL and they fear T-storms!

Stainz
 
Your wife is a saint :D

After reading all the replies, I'm still (even more so now) sending it to Reese Weiland. I'll have him make a more solid and permanent stop pin and drill it for a left hand tip up. I don't think the stock stop pin would be able to hold up to regular wave openings. Yeah, I'm gonna wave it. Go figure ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top