Up to here with 01

swede2207

swede2207

Joined
Mar 10, 2002
Messages
323
Hey guys, was just sanding down the handle on a new skinner im making,and when i removed the bluie painters tape ahhhhhhh! Rust..dang it..anyway i put renaissance wax on it before wrapping in the tape..my question now is..What can i use to get rid of it..At first i thought it was stained..but it has to be rust..i mean this stuff wont even sand out ..help..Thanks in advance..
 
Presumably you taped the blade while you were shaping the handle, and dipped the handle while you were working it? If so, bad idea. I've been through this, the only thing you can do is be sure not to get the blade wet when it's taped.
 
This may sound wierd but here it goes......(This is for next time)

Once you get the blade like you like it set it aside to dry real well.
Then spray the blade with spray 77 adhesive... protected one I was working on pretty good.

The only thing I can say is to be glad you learned a lesson now instead of down the road. All mistakes in knifemaking are hard ones to live with untill you simply learn... to learn from your mistakes and get what you can out of them. I used to beat myself up about things like your going through. Let us know what you do.
 
Soft paste waxes often have water emulsified into them to make them soft. If the wax wasn't drying for quite awhile then, and the water wasn't all evaporated, unfortunately, you set yourself up for the rust.

You can coat the blade in nail polish prior to taping, or use regular (beige) masking tape. Obviously, it seals a lot better. I've never had carbon steel rust under that tape even when left for weeks.
 
be very careful when working with that damn tape. rene roy just had the same problem and he couldn't sand the lines out either. he suggested running the tape lengthwise on the blade so you won't have cross sections where the tape intersects the blade. if that makes any sense.
 
Maybe that's why I never have a problem, Michael. One piece on either side full length, then wrap a second layer in the typical spiral pattern. Thanks, I didn't think to say that.
 
no problem. i've never had that trouble before, but i had remeber rene saying it during my visit a few weeks ago. and it made sense. if the tape touches the blade consistently throughout without any lines crossing, then the effect seems to be stopped. rene had said its oly leave lines towards the outside edge of where the tape was.
Fitzo could this be some type of reaction with the tapes epoxy and something else that comes in contact with it, seeing as its only vulnerable to contact on the edges?

has anyone tried any other tapes and had the same results?

isn't the epoxy on the blue painters tape different from the regular masking tape?
 
Dont give up on 0-1. You would have had the same problem with any carbon steel. 0-1 is a good steel to use....
 
swede2207, as Michael said...I just has the same problem... :mad: :mad: :mad: I was using the blue painters tape too...and when I took the tape off I about lost my mind.. :( But I still love 01, and I will just be more careful in the future...
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
isn't the epoxy on the blue painters tape different from the regular masking tape?
Click to expand...

I think so. Anyone can correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the adhesive on the blue tape supposed to start breaking down once it's exposed to air so that it just falls off after a few days (so you don't have to peel it off the trim)?
 
F. Allin Kahrl said:
I think so. Anyone can correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the adhesive on the blue tape supposed to start breaking down once it's exposed to air so that it just falls off after a few days (so you don't have to peel it off the trim)?
Click to expand...


No no no.....The blue painters tape I use at work ( I work in displays) will stick like no ones business if left for a few days. Thats a big no from my experience.
 
As I understand it the blue masking tape is just low tack, that is less sticky, making it easier to remove.
To prevent rust just mix up some of the things you probally have on hand. I use approx. 1/3 each Bee's wax, linseed oil, and mineral spirits. I know it sounds too simple to work but it works for me.
Lynn
 
The very best technique I have found is a good coat of Rem oil spray w/ teflon before wrapping with tan 3M masking tape. No problem since.
 
Wow, thanks for all the input..i ended up clamping up the knife in a vice and using a 320 grit paper carefully sanding out the mistake. Then i came up through the grits to 600 with my finishing stick..it came out ok..but the satin finish was beautiful..my best ever..now its just ok..lesson learned..im going to try each one of the ideas in this post..figure out whats best for me..ill let you know what i come up with..thanks again everyone.
Luke(still loves 01)
 
A way to remove rust is Boeshield Rust Free spray. To prevent rust on metal surfaces once they are clean, they make Boeshield T-9 spray. I first bumped into this stuff in the woodworking world, where it's used to protect steel machine parts.
http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm

Alternatively, Mili-Tec 1 is a product that penetrates metal and helps prevent water incursion. Just talked to a guy there that said any temp over 140 degrees F will cause it to bond to metal. (I wouldn't necessarily recommend using it as a quenching oil though. ;) But who knows, it may just work.) They'll even send you a free sample to try it out. Once it's bonded he said it is part of the metal, not a film or deposit laying on top of the metal, and is only removed by removal of the metal itself.
http://www.militec-1.com

To clear off rust, how about using CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) liquid or similar products? After all, it's made to remove rust from metal fixtures around your house. In this case, the fixture happens to be a steel knife blade. Do you guys think CLR would work?
 
I wondering if the tape didn't come in contact with something and absorbed on the edges? I've wraped blades everywhich way and the only problem I've ever had is getting the adheasive residue off, but a little WD40 takes care of that.

I do use only 3M and Duck Brand tape, mainly because I cut my stencils for my marks into squars and use masking tape to position it and protect the rest of the blade. Other brands have bled through on the tape laps and etched a line on the blade.

All I do to most blades is spray them down with WD40, wipe dry and tape up. A lot of times I'll just tape of an oil free clean blade to finish the handle.
:confused:
 
You guys should try the tape I'm using. It's 3M 233+ type, PN26334. It's green in color, and it's the same type of masking tape many car finishers use now. The adhesive is very tough - meaning it won't come off when you peel off the tape. The adhesive is also pretty strong too, but it won't strip off the paint. Pretty tough tape, and I really like it a lot. It's green in color. Oh also it's fairly moldable to curves and such. It also resists tearing when you take it off. Nothing irritates me more than fiddling with cheap tape - trying to take it off and failing miserably just because it sticks to itself better than anything else. Give this stuff a try if you can find it. I highly recommend it. :)
 
The blue tape is low tack for trim...to be easily removed without taking paint off or leaving an adhesive film.

The green tape is similar but with a stronger adhesive for use on "hard to stick" materials like stucco and brick.

You can get them both at Home Depot. I use them both for different things in the shop.

In Washington carbon blades will rust if you look at them sideways. I've had this rust during handle work thing happen many times. I have gone to coating the blade with a thin layer of axle grease and then wrapping it with a paper towel and duct tape over that. It's tough, easy to do, and wipes off real easily with a paper towel and WD-40. It beats the hell out of finding rust on your blade.

Nick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top