Update and question on shaping hawk handle .

[Kevin the grey]

O:K: Drawknife edge has been brought back far enough to be useable . On poplar it will sometimes lift toothpick sized splinters . Is this a common issue with poplar , my technique or perhaps a fault in the edge profile I put on ?

I am also using my rasps as Codger64 suggested . The farriers is way too aggressive . I have a smaller Nicholsons trhat is just the trick for taking down any ridges or smooth out valleys .

I have the hawk handle well shaped out except for the last three inches . I fit the head on thump it into place and look along the bottom or top edges for tight places to shave and loose places to avoid . I then outline these places with a pencil and shave away the pencil lines . I also look where the head was and look for any rubbed spots that indicate a slightly high spot to file/sand down .
It seems to me that there is a little something I am not picking up on . As I progress the head progresses up the shaft . It doesn,t seem to be taper fitting as well as it should . Can you see something I could improve in my technique ?

I enjoy using the drawknife on the poplar it almost feels like I am sculpting something out of clay . A satisfying feeling .

 

[Cliff Stamp]

It could be possible the eye doesn't have a suitable taper.

-Cliff

 

[Kevin the grey]

Cliff I have to admit its a hawk made by a buddy of mine . Its a great hawk . He is the first to admit there is more for him to learn . The taper might not be pronounced enough . I am not sure if this is the hawk that jumps off the handle occasionaly . It does wedge on their pretty good so far even though I haven,t got to the point where all the circumference of wood touches all the inside of the hawk . I guess tomorrow will tell .

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I spent some time trying to shape a handle for a Cold Steel tomahawk without success until I examined the eye and it had little taper. You then either have to axe-wedge it, or actually grind a taper in the eye.

-Cliff