Updated Dec 2010: Spyderco Bushcraft Factory Second refinished.

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xavierdoc

Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
139
I ordered one of the seconds and left it to settle a few months. The cracks were almost invisible by that stage. I've filled the cracks and sealed the handle with multiple layers of cyanoacrylate (polymerised with linseed oil) and polished it up. It's a very durable finish.

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It has seen heavy use since (batoning, etc.) and the scales remain solid.

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The supplied sheath is not to my liking so I have a DIY one, instead.

I'd recommmend this factory-second as good value compared to the blank; the handle is ergonomically superb and looks stunning, plus you get the sheath. Besides, if my handle falls apart I'll stick some micarta or CF on.

Obviously 01 requires a lot more looking after than the steels we are used to seeing Spyderco use (corrosion-wise.) However, it sharpens easily and the HT seems to be spot on.

It's a great bushcraft knife and the handle has the best ergonomics of any bushcraft knife I've used or made. I would prefer it without the spyder-hole as crud accumulates in it.

Probably the best value knife I've bought (Byrd Crossbill a close second!)

Cheers,

Xav

EDIT: See update below.
 
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Looks like a custom knife now. I guess it is. That sounds like quite a recipe you used for sealing.
 
Great pictures and fantastic result on the handle.
Cheers
nemo
 
With the release of the Spyderco BushcraftUK G10 and the recent reviews thereof, now would seem to be a good time to update on my factory second of the spalted maple handled knife. It is the same blade and handle shape as the G10.

Here are a few pics of my knife, which has seen regular use this year:

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There is some staining of the blade, which is not surprising as I do not pamper my working knives. It does get a quick clean and a wipe of oil after use. There is no pitting or rust (one of the pics above is misleading as the colour balance looks a bit orangy/rusty.)

Lazy field sharpening with small stones has distorted the zero/scandi grind but it remains perfect in function and easy to keep shaving-sharp. A good balance between ease of sharpening, edge retention and toughness. The G10 version will hopefully be the same.

The "cracked" scales have shown no signs of shifting or splitting. I haven't had any grip issues with sweat, rain or blood on the gloss finish. Some areas of the gloss finish have lost their shine and there are a few dings. The finish is not the factory standard (see original post.)

In summary:

My opinion of the factory second Spyderco BushcraftUK remains unchanged; it is an excellent "bushcraft" knife for the money. The sheath is a bit nasty and I use a DIY affair.

I haven't looked at the price of the G10 version as I don't need it, but if I didn't have the wooden handled version I'd be looking for one. It should be a real work horse.
 
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Wonderful! I like the looks of the "used" knife much better, I like stains and patinas from usage.

How did you fill the cracks? I've got one that I've also left sitting, and I would like to do the same thing, but not sure how to get the glue well down into the cracks.

Thanks!
 
sodak said:
Wonderful! I like the looks of the "used" knife much better, I like stains and patinas from usage.

How did you fill the cracks? I've got one that I've also left sitting, and I would like to do the same thing, but not sure how to get the glue well down into the cracks.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

The cracks in mine were pretty small, thankfully.

The liquid/runny cyanoacrylate seemed to penetrate the cracks quite easily: little bubbles could be seen rising to the surface. I had to do several applications per crack as just dabbing more in meant more ran out, of course.

I had wondered about degreasing the inside of the cracks before filling but since the knives were shipped in linseed oil (which "reacts" and sets cyanoacrylate) I wasn't too worried.

I am no expert but so far it seems to be working.

EDIT: Wow -my post count is in double figures after only 4 years.
 
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For the coating, do you mix linseed with the cyano, or just put the glue on straight?
 
Its a shame they picked such ugly wood!!!???? Just kidding that is probably the best spalted anything I have seen. Glad it held up so well.
TC
 
sodak said:
For the coating, do you mix linseed with the cyano, or just put the glue on straight?
Click to expand...

After filling the cracks I used a gloved finger wrapped in cling film to apply cyano. This was then rubbed with boiled linseed oil. I repeated the process several times and sanded back to a uniform thickness after a couple of layers, before reapplying. Once I though I had a good thickness over everything I did final sanding a buffing. The cyanoacrylate is surprisingly hard to abrade, but takes a high polish.

I have heard of wood turners applying cyano and linseed to the spinning wood, but no direct experience myself.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'm going to try this, your finished knife is just great!
 
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