Upgrading a villager - how?

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May 28, 2003
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I'm thinking of taking my new 12" AK villager apart and replacing the handle with some nice figured walnut that I have had lying around collecting dust for years. Any suggestions for doing this? I've made a few knives, and I understand how to fit a handle on a stick tang. I'm asking about how to best disassemble the HI butt-plate, handle and bolster without damaging the reusable parts.
Thanks for any help, folks.
 
Brian,

I just took a file and filed the stub down. Then dipped the handle in the pot of boiling water and stuck a screwdriver under the but cap and it popped right off. Then the handle pulled off pretty easy.
 
Just make the new handle a smidgeon shorter, or stretch the tang back to it's original length by hammering just behind the tang end while it's out of the handle material, then peen the tang back over the buttcap and keeper.
 
Brian either grind or file the tip of the tang down even with the keeper and then using a sharp edged screwdriver or carefully insert a thin knife edge under the edge of the keeper and pop it off. You can do the same with the butt cap many times, but it may be glued on with either laha or JB Weld so may prove to be a bit more difficult.

Then using an old pan heat up water 'till it boils and soak the handle in it for a few minutes. Use a couple of old rags to pull the handle from the blade. The melted laha has a tendency to stick to anything you don't want it to stick to so that's the reason for using an old pan or something else that you don't mind possibly ruining.

Before reassembleing cut the tang down further towards the cho to get rid of the cho creep. With a hacksaw cut off the flat area of the bolster and then file it smooth and gently tap the sides down if needed to close the gap between blade and bolster if needed. Make the new handle to suit yourself. By reworking the tang to get rid of the cho creep and shortening the bolster you can make a quite a bit longer handle if desired.

If you're going to improve the finish on the blade nows the time to do it. If not then place the bolster on the tang and tape in place with masking tape being sure to completely cover the bolster. Make sure to have the rest of the parts covered with masking tape where you don't want epoxy to stick.

Pour a bit of epoxy into the bolster, slide handle over tang and fit into bolster, pour epoxy into the handle and install butt cap and keeper being sure to keep everything centered the way you want it. Let set until epoxy starts setting up into about the consistency of well chewed bubble gum or a bit harder and then carefully start removing the tape. With the tape removed you can then peen the tang being very careful to not move anything out of kilter. Use acetone to remove any excess still somewhat soft epoxy. let cure and viola, You've done it!!!!
 
Thanks guys, that was what I needed to know. So, Yvsa, if I get rid of cho creep, I loose the kami marks. Does it matter? I guess not unless it's a Bura...
I dug out a swell little piece of walnut with crotch figure that I've had for years - just the right size. Roughed it out on the bandsaw and left it plenty long to accommodate the new contours.
 
Brian in Chi said:
Thanks guys, that was what I needed to know.

So, Yvsa, if I get rid of cho creep, I loose the kami marks. Does it matter?
Wouldn't matter to me, not even if it's made by Bura.;) But I can remember when there weren't -any- marks.:D
Those were the good ol' days. We had standard bolsters, convexed blades and khuks that didn't hang up in a cut.:cool:
 
The wood on my village was nice, once it was sanded and finished properly. The handle wood wound up looking just like the wood on my Bura BGRS - very nice.
You might try sanding and trying one finishing coat before doing radical surgery. Walnut just doesn't seem quite right ...
 
I have refinished several wood handles, and agree, some are made of pretty nice wood. This one isn't very interesting, though. I think the walnut will work. It isn't very flashy figure, just quite complex and it flows with the curve of the handle. We'll see. I won't throw out the original wood.
 
The kamis know what they are doing. They have a curve at the bottom of the tang where it joins the blade. This is there for strength, and a 90 degree angle would not be as strong. If there is any way to do it (with a round file), it is a good idea to keep this curved shape.
 
Do all the finishing on the blade (save sharpening only) before you put the handle back on.

Should turn out to be a great project, Brian!
 
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