Urushi lacquer and kitchen knife handles

[John L]

Does anyone have any information on this application? I like the look and theoretically it does add some grippiness to the handle. I think it is applied directly to the wood or to a twine wrapped handle. That is about the extent of my knowledge. Thanks for any help here.

John Lloyd

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

" ..... I think it is applied directly to the wood or to a twine wrapped handle. ...."

That is correct. The process and curing takes a bit of experience. I would get some (it is expensive) and do some tests. The Japanese knife sites have some info, and searches will get other, but there isn't a ton of info out there on it. Also search saya finishing.

 

[MBB]

All I know is it is essentially purified urushiol, aka poison ivy oil, harvested from the Kiurushi tree, and that it takes a lot of experience not to cause yourself a lot of problems:

http://www.wardukarmouries.com/Info/Urushi.html

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Yes, the chemical agent, urushiol, is the same as in poison ivy sap. It has to be handles properly, just like most of the chemicals and acids we use. Getting a good finish is trickier than it seems. Once cured it isn't the same in skin reactivity.

IIRC, they sell something called "synthetic urushi".

I usually tell people to get some good quality lacquer and practice building up layers with that. The process is somewhat the same. The end result is very similar.

 

[JDWARE]

John, at "Following the Iron Brush" (Ford Hallam's forum) there is a whole section on Urushi HERE
Saludos
J

JDWARE KNIVES

 

[javand]

John, at "Following the Iron Brush" (Ford Hallam's forum) there is a whole section on Urushi HERE
Saludos
J

JDWARE KNIVES

Damn, I wasn't aware of that forum. Some great stuff there.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

Yes, the chemical agent, urushiol, is the same as in poison ivy sap. It has to be handles properly, just like most of the chemicals and acids we use. Getting a good finish is trickier than it seems. Once cured it isn't the same in skin reactivity.

IIRC, they sell something called "synthetic urushi".

I usually tell people to get some good quality lacquer and practice building up layers with that. The process is somewhat the same. The end result is very similar.

I avoid as many chemicals as possible In Our crafts. On Carbon Damascus I use Apple Vinegar to etch and only use the acid on Stainless Damascus ... Long term exposer to the steel & wood Dust and Superglue etc can take its toll after a decade or two!!

 

[javand]

I avoid as many chemicals as possible In Our crafts. On Carbon Damascus I use Apple Vinegar to etch and only use the acid on Stainless Damascus ... Long term exposer to the steel & wood Dust and Superglue etc can take its toll after a decade or two!!

Gotta pay the cost, to be a boss Laurance.

I try to limit my exposure as much as possible, have a super expensive power air respirator, etc, but I can only use it for rough grinding, fine finish grinding, hand sanding, etc, requires clear, crisp vision and plenty of light, without obstruction, just an example. Many of my materials and techniques require temp fixturing with CA glue, without it, I simply wouldn't be able to get the results I expect.


I'm sure John is well aware of the risks, and willing to risk it. I'd argue that everyone, no matter what level or materials they're working with, making knives, really ought to realize that it's gonna take years off your life, no matter how meticulous and cautious you are. Sure, be realistic and do what you can, but anyone that thinks they can make this craft safe, is simply delusional, and the higher the level you want to work at, the more dangerous it is.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

Gotta pay the cost, to be a boss Laurance.

I try to limit my exposure as much as possible, have a super expensive power air respirator, etc, but I can only use it for rough grinding, fine finish grinding, hand sanding, etc, requires clear, crisp vision and plenty of light, without obstruction, just an example. Many of my materials and techniques require temp fixturing with CA glue, without it, I simply wouldn't be able to get the results I expect.


I'm sure John is well aware of the risks, and willing to risk it. I'd argue that everyone, no matter what level or materials they're working with, making knives, really ought to realize that it's gonna take years off your life, no matter how meticulous and cautious you are. Sure, be realistic and do what you can, but anyone that thinks they can make this craft safe, is simply delusional, and the higher the level you want to work at, the more dangerous it is.

I have a Air America miners air helmet to and I cant get proper focus through that plastic shield ether.. the best unit I’ve found, and I sell them to is a Resp-o-rator.. I wear my regular eye glasses and a Dewalt dual mold goggle.. DPG82 to help keep the grit & dust out of my eyes. The Resp-o-rator is the best! I can answer the phone, chat with customers at the Farmers Market and I wear it far more than those Half Masks because it’s so comfortable and easy to use..if you are interested in one. PM me..