I don't consider the factory HRLM choil usable.
The factory RMD choil "is" usable.
Personally, I would rather the HRLM not have had ANY choil at all. But, the one on it falls into the catagory of the newly coined term: "Elf" choil - which Busse has been using for years - especially on many Busse knives (unfortunately).
From the factory, the Elf choil is too small to fit a finger in and make usable. But, it is WAY larger than it needs to be for just a sharpening choil.
Since the Elf choil is already there, it can't be removed. So, the next best option is to "try" to make it functional. Many people including myself have modified the factory HRLM choil by grinding it larger to make it usable.
Most people of ground out the choil to make it larger by grinding forward into the blade.
Personally, I didn't want to lose any more functional sharpened edge and felt the guard was larger than it needed to be. So, I ground my choil back into the guard.
The end result is at least functional and IMO is a MUCH improved option over the factory elf choil and looks fine.
My HRLM with my SS4 (both stripped, satin finished and convex edge):
The modification process is quite easy - and easy to make/maintain a decent look. Many people just grind it out with a Dremel. But, you REALLY need to take care to not over-heat the blade - which can damage the temper. Jerry and Eric will not recommend modifying the knife. I can't blame them if people damage the knife/temper then want warranty coverage. But, with just a little bit of care in watching to avoid heat build-up, the process really is easy. Keep a dipping bucker of water nearby while grinding and dip often. The water cools a blade WAY faster than air. Personally, I always grind with bare hands and CONSTANTLY feel the area of blade I am grinding to keep from getting hot. I try to "Safely" keep my fingers actually near the area I am grinding to feel for heat. After some practice, you get a feel for how much grinding you can do without building up too much heat.
Personally, I prefer using a drum-sanding attachment on my Drill Press. This allows me to hold the knife with both hands = better control and secure grip on the knife. Further, the drum sizes are a bit better to work with and the speeds are bit slower which makes it easier to control heat build-up... although a drum sanding head on a drill / drill press will still generate heat.
Hope that helps.
I can't give "fair" or "meaningful" comments on the Rat Cutlery blades. I don't have them. But, from what I see and have read, they look and appear to be decent knives and feedback has been good. From pictures, the choils on the RC3 and RC4 "appear" to be large enough for use. (?????).
Although, personally, I think it is WEIRD, that RAT Cutlery put choils on the smaller knives: RC3 and RC4, but NOT on the larger RC5 (?????) - Seems backwards to me. Otherwise, they seem like fine enough knives.
Personally, I am fine with the choil on the Swamp Rat RMD, but wish the smaller HRLM did not have a choil.
The RC3 is significantly smaller than the HRLM.
The RC4 is closer to the HRLM, but the specs on the RC4 show the RC4 to still be just a bit smaller than the HRLM.
In spite of the elf choil on the HRLM, I still contend the choild to be a pretty easy modification on the HRLM and Personally, (once modified) I "assume" the HRLM to be a nicer knife than the RC4.
The handle on the HRLM is VERY comfortable and other than the choil, the Blade shape on the HRLM is very nice. Once the choil is modified on the HRLM, it should be no worse and possibly better than the RC4's - assuming you custom grind/fit it how you want it.
The RC5 specs show it to be just a bit larger/longer than the RMD. But, my money is on the RMD again. I love the RMD.
.
