Usable EDC edge angle

Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Messages
4,585
Howdy.
I am trying to put a usable edge on my EDC game warden.
Its .200 thick. I have a Lansky sharpening system,which is
a clamp thing with alignment slots that hold the diamond stone
at certain angles to the knife edge.
It has 30,25,20 an 17 degree slots.
I have used 25 degrees and that didnt give me
a thin enough edge for my use.
Tried 20 degrees and that still seems to thick.
I cant sharpen a pencil the way I like,opening cartons
is a pain as well. I dont do really "heavy duty" cutting
or prying with this thing,mainly cutting...
(carpet,boxes,rope,construction type stuff)
What do you guys sharpen your edc edge to?
Now I remember from a previous thread,I am talking 20 or 17 degrees
on each side of the blade,not both edges together (40degrees)
I just cant seem to find a good angle for this Game Warden.
Thanks for your help.
 
Your best bet would be to pick up a thinner blade Busse for the tasks your performing . I'd suggest a BAD .14 thick, a way better thin slicer. If I'm not mistaken you'd hafta reprofile the blade a bit to sharpen it to make it a thin slicer. I'm sure others will chime in


You might try stroping the angled edge you have now
 
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20 per side would be fine, that's where my warden is but it's a thinner one. Maybe try convexing it first and see if you like that.
 
From another thread, I like this edge for the GW.

Here's a set of .220" GWs, on left is from Busse, on right is my doing.

1813096758_7e57503ffa_b.jpg


Stock on right, my doing on the left:

1812252443_213748ad59_b.jpg


I haven't used it much since then but if I did I would be careful!
 
i would try what mr. clean suggested and convex the edge. i put a convex edge on an ash for macgregor22 and it was wicked sharp.
 
I hate to chime in here, but I cannot sharpen ANYTHING!!!! I have never been able able to my whole life. I really want to learn and I have money to spend, I just don't want to waste it! I think that I have been wasting my time with gimmicks and wish that someone would chime in for a cure all, regardless of what it costs.
 
BTW, I agree that you probably would fare better with a BAD. I used a GW as an EDC for a similar list of tasks as yours and the BAD is a better blade for that type of use. The tip is more useful and the thinner blade makes it a better slicer for sure.

To wvriverats, if you have the $ then send them to a professional (see the post before yours). Then once set, just touch it up with a mouse pad and very fine sandpaper.
 
b6obol.jpg


That's my Scrapyard Mud Puppy. I took off a lot of metal with an XX course DMT stone, then put 600 grit sandpaper over a soft surface and convexed the edge. Polished it up some then put on a microbevel using about 4 strokes per side of a fine ceramic hone. The angle at the edge just behind the microbevel is 8~9 degrees per side, thickening slightly at the tip to keep it strong for stabs into hard materials.

If I were you I'd take the lowest grit stone you have and reprofile it to 10 degrees per side, then use the 17 degree setting on your Lanksy and a very high grit stone to apply a microbevel. That should offer a good combination of durability and cutting ability. I don't have experience with INFI but most of my favorite stainless steels easily handle thinner angles. My Spyderco Paramilitary is about 4 degrees per side behind the microbevel. :)
 
I hate to chime in here, but I cannot sharpen ANYTHING!!!! I have never been able able to my whole life. I really want to learn and I have money to spend, I just don't want to waste it! I think that I have been wasting my time with gimmicks and wish that someone would chime in for a cure all, regardless of what it costs.

For self-sharpening, cost-no-object, probably your best bet is the Edge Pro. It's gonna cost you!
 
Some excellent suggestions and tips.
I havent tried a BAD because I thought
.14 would be too thin for my use.
I do have a Miliganza AD which is thinner than the Warden,
yet thick enough I believe for me. Fits soooo nice in the hand...
Now,another question...
I have read many times about "the mousepad trick"
Can someone explain that or point me to a link?
I dont have the search feature (yet).
I see you guys saying your removing x amount with a mousepad
but how,by "sharpening" the knife on the 600grit?
By sanding the blade edge to thin it?
Horizontally or perpendicular to the edge?
Thanks.
 
The mousepad technique is simply a method of convexing an edge. By placing sandpaper over a surface with give, when you use a regular edge trailing sharpening motion at an acute angle with this setup you will gradually give the edge a convex shape. This is one of the easier methods of doing this by hand.

I hate to chime in here, but I cannot sharpen ANYTHING!!!! I have never been able able to my whole life. I really want to learn and I have money to spend, I just don't want to waste it! I think that I have been wasting my time with gimmicks and wish that someone would chime in for a cure all, regardless of what it costs.

If you just want sharp edges and don't care how, there are a number of people you can send it to if not the company itself, or you can buy a jig like the sharpmaker or edge pro. However, you spoke of learning how to sharpen, something I don't think you'll fully learn taking either of those routes.....

My recommendation:

Buy this for reprofiling or cleaning a damaged edge:

http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=5663

Buy this for honing an edge to shaving sharpness and beyond:

http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=5251

Go here and read, read read:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=794

Then practice, practice, practice. Through experience you'll probably find a lot of what is said about steels and sharpening is unfounded, and will find what works for you.
 
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Thanks for the help.
I think I will try the mousepad first.
I can just imagine how fast I can get in trouble with
an electric sander.
I will get one though,I have seen the leather strop they sell
for that thing,looks like it would save a TON of time.
Thanks much,I will post a shot of my first sharpening attempt
(before I send it off for warranty repair work... (this is covered aint it? ;) )
 
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