Used leaf springs, yea or nay?

H

Hoplophile

Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
435
Can used leaf springs from old cars, be used for knife making? I am about to re-spring my 66 Dodge, and thought about using the springs for some knives. Can they be heated and "unbent"? I've heard talk of stress fractures in this "used" steel. Should I just scrap em and get some 5160 from Admiral or somebody?
Thanks
 
I think you are sitting on the BEST knifemaking steel there is in my opinion. Even better than new stock 5160. New stock has been recycled from old stock a lot these days and some cruddy spots have been regularly reported. The leaf springs from US vehicles from the 50s and 60s are almost certainly 5160 and a premium material for bladesmithing. Especially in the small truck sizes. Ive used Dodge before and they works great. Mine was a 57 Dodge 1/2 ton pick-up that I used all four sides of springs off it and it provided me with excellent steel for a couple of years. Anyone that puts this material down hasnt used it enough to know. Just becuase its scrap doesnt mean theres something wrong with it. Currently Im using the leaf springs from a 58 Ford pick-up. It should be forge though and not simply straightened and ground. It will have a memory if it isnt forged. For sure look at the surface to check for any stress cracking but if the springs arent bent severely then they will be fine. I have used leaf springs extensively for bladesmithing as a full time maker and have NEVER had a problem. In my opinion there isnt anything better.
 
use them, we've cut them into short run profile knives in the machine heads, if they'll stand up to that, what you're doing with them is easy.:D
 
I use them also and every now and then I find a crack. No Biggie. Without being labled a tree hugger, I feel we throw away too much. I grew up in an area 50 years behind the rest of the world and reusing and repairing were a way of life.
When I buy new steel I deal with pacific steel. Great guys and good prices. I've never gotten a piece of steel with cruddy spots from them. I have bought several hundred feet of 5160 1/4X2. Never a complaint.
 
Use the leaf springs, I've used a lot of them and they are tough.The only thing I would suggest is to do a quench test on a piece of the springs your using before putting a lot of work in them.Just heat to alittle above critical and quench into ATF (Thats what I use) heated to 125 to 140. if a new or fairly new file skates down the edge and doesn't bite START FORGING.I forged a 8" bowie out of leaf spring 4 years ago and I have abused it in every way possible and I can't hurt it. Its good stuff.
I brought some 5160 from admiral steel 1 1/4" x 1/4" and it is sh**
lots of trash, I'll never buy from them again. I guess I shouldn't say that, but it gets down right aggravating to forge, grind, heat treat and then find a bunch of zits in the blade during the finish sanding. We'll I said my piece. Good Luck
Bill
 
Bill emailed me and asked about Pacific Steel. Anyone interested they can be reached here:

800-547-1091

Joe Backus is the best guy to help you, but he is hard to get a hold of as he is outside sales. Dave can also help.
 
Y'all are making me feel pretty good, I scored some springs off an old pickup a couple months ago. Thing is, they're BIG; how in creation would one bring them down to a workable size? I have the Gurka House kukuri-making video wherein these makers hot cut the metal with a chisel -- with two 10-lb sledges and another guy holding the stock. Not exactly my setup... Any hints? My forge is nearing completion and I'm psyched.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Dave, I use an old rockwell Circular saw that I bought at a yard sale. With a metal cutting blade I have cut some huge stuff and I always use it to cut the rough outline for my swords.
 
Peter, thanks! I guess I should've thought of using a cutoff saw to profile big stuff
myself, but I sure hadn't. I even have an old skilsaw I'd set aside for abrasive
blades. You made my day.

Dave
 
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