Using a gemred (angle cube) with a Lansky?

C

Cyber_Demigod

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May 1, 2016
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I can reprofile and then sharpen my knives just fine, but as soon as I try and stay with the factory angle I get terrible results with the lansky. Those guide marks go out the window in pretty much any situation. I have every lansky set, and even the extra as well as several strops and compounds for the lansky.

What I want to know is if I could use a gemred or angle cube inclinometer to determine the actually angle I am sharpening at, and combine that with the sharpie trick - would it be possible and how would I do it?
I have read so many different posts regarding the lansky and I cannot find one working solution to the angle problem - I have really tried and I am getting nowhere
 
Since the Lansky uses fixed angle settings, your best option is to use a sharpie to colour the edge to see where you are taking off the metal and determine which setting matches the existing angle best. There is very little chance that the angles of the Lansky are an exact match for your knife so re-profile the knife to match the Lansky and stick to that setting.
 
To add to what fvdk said, an angle cube will do little good, since, unlike many of the other guided sharpeners that you can use an angle cube on, you can't adjust the Lansky to match a particular angle. So, sharpening the knife to match the Lansky, is basically the best/only route. You don't necessarily have to match the angle currently on the blade... you can re profile it for what you use the knife for. (For example, it's almost always better to reprofile/sharpen at a lower angle, if the current edge is between settings).

Also, pay attention to how/where you clamp the blade, or you'll be essentially "starting over" every time you return the blade to the Lansky.
 
I can adjust the lansky to meet the angle through the use of the screws - It is different for every blade profile but I know I can get pretty much any Angle I want - I could also lower or raise the stone so it is not "flat" with the rod - this would adjust the angle if the screws on the clamp do not allow for it.
 
Cyber_Demigod said:
I can adjust the lansky to meet the angle through the use of the screws - It is different for every blade profile but I know I can get pretty much any Angle I want - I could also lower or raise the stone so it is not "flat" with the rod - this would adjust the angle if the screws on the clamp do not allow for it.
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You could, but I think you'd be setting yourself up for an 'exercise in frustration'... going this route. Just my .02.

If you do this, also realize you'll need a stable mount for the Lansky while you're taking readings.
 
Yes I have worked on the mount I have, and have found that I can get it to stay in one place if I support the weight of the handle with another seperate clamp and mount I have (sometimes, if the knife shape lends itself to this
As well I can put some rubber, plasti dip, Silicone Self fusing tape, or even just painters tape on the mount and it creates a tight fit.

I really hope I can get this to work, it would help not only myself but others who use the system - but I do not really have high hopes as this system isn't design to really match blade angles at all. It is just an attempt to actually make a common high quality affordable system with lots of options and lots of users become a system that works very well for precision, not requiring re profiling for every damn knife.
I am willing to make modifications, I have many clamps (only two of the rubber ones I really like though), and a few mounts - I wish I could get my hands on that older lansky universal mount however

Where would I need to set the angle cube to read the angle though? On the rod? Aligned with the very surface of the stone? On top of the stone holder?
 
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Cyber_Demigod said:
Yes I have worked on the mount I have, and have found that I can get it to stay in one place if I support the weight of the handle with another seperate clamp and mount I have (sometimes, if the knife shape lends itself to this
As well I can put some rubber, plasti dip, Silicone Self fusing tape, or even just painters tape on the mount and it creates a tight fit.

I really hope I can get this to work, it would help not only myself but others who use the system - but I do not really have high hopes as this system isn't design to really match blade angles at all. It is just an attempt to actually make a common high quality affordable system with lots of options and lots of users become a system that works very well for precision, not requiring re profiling for every damn knife.
I am willing to make modifications, I have many clamps (only two of the rubber ones I really like though), and a few mounts - I wish I could get my hands on that older lansky universal mount however

Where would I need to set the angle cube to read the angle though? On the rod? Aligned with the very surface of the stone? On top of the stone holder?
Click to expand...

Not exactly sure what you're asking but if i read it right you want 3 axis. Left to right and front to back to ensure a good zero of the system and then of the guide rod to ensure the correct angle.
 
So the flat center of the knife as the base of the triangle to the contact point of the edge(front to back) - the height of the base center of knife to the guide rod hole(s) and then the length of the contact point from the guide rod hole to the edge
Then the angle of the guide rod

Or am I missing something?
 
I have the Lansky diamond system & I usually get real close to factory edge with the Sharpie method, then I start with either my extra course stone or course stone & profile it from there. It's not exactly the same factory edge, but close enough. Sometimes that factory edge stinks. One side being more angled than the other, I fix that in those situations.
 
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Dogdrawz said:
I have the Lansky diamond system & I usually get real close to factory edge with the Sharpy method, then I start with either my extra course stone or course stone & profile it from there. It's not exactly the same factory edge, but close enough. Sometimes that factory edge stinks. One side being more angled than the other, I fix that in those situations.
Click to expand...

What's the best way to fix those in an even proportionw ould you say? My Okapis are like that, really bad on the tips with a blunted point even.
 
I work on the wide bevel side first, get that bur, then work the short bevel side till it looks as wide as the wider side. Getting the tip good is sometimes a pain & takes more work, just make sure you keep sharpening the whole edge even if it's the point that needs the most work. It helps to have a lighted magnified lamp/hand held glass or like what I have, a pair of Optivisor magnified head wear. Wish I could tell you that it's more precise, but it's just simple eyeballing.
 
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