Using a "hunter" blade in the woods

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spike22

Joined
Jun 23, 2003
Messages
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Hi Guys

I am looking for a small (3-5 inch) fixed blade that I can use in the woods for a range of tasks such as preparing game, sharpening sticks into points, cutting bark, rope..etc.

I will have a folding saw so I dont need any heavy chopping, but I may need to baton the knife to split wood.

Many of the blades in this size range are described as "hunter" blades and people commenting on them mention using them to butcher game etc, but are these blades any good at the other things I have mentioned - such as cutting and splitting wood?

I am considering the "Hybrid Hunter" by Outdoor Edge and Cold Steel's "Pendleton Hunter" and "Master Hunter"
 
I wouldn't call these wood splitters - although the Master Hunter is a very stout knife and could probably go there in an emergency.
Probably the toughest knife in this price range is the Becker Companion - it'll split wood all day but not as useful elsewhere.
The BK10 would be my choice here; however, for all the tasks you would reasonably expect a 4 1/2" blade to do - it's tough to beat the CSMH. Available in a high carbon model but the satin finish stainless makes sense in moist environments.
 
I second the Becker line. There are several choices depending on what size blade you are looking for. Great quality for a low price.
 
Of the knives you listed I would take the Master Hunter due to the good carbon steel blade.

If you want a stainless knife with a heavy duty blade, you should check out the Fallkniven F1. The blade steel is VG-10, which is a whole lot better than the stainless steel used in the Cold Steel Pendleton Hunter. I have not priced the F1 lately, but I think I paid around $60 for mine.

You might want to choose a carbon steel knife, however, if you expect to use it for splitting wood or other chores that might involve heavy impacts. Stainless steels are more brittle than carbon steels, so the chances of chipping or breaking a stainless knife would be higher than with a carbon steel knife.

Probably the best carbon steel knives short of high priced customs are the Swamp Rat knives.

The Becker knives are very good but some (including myself) find the Becker handles to be too slippery. Some people rough them up with sandpaper to solve that problem.

Other good brands: Bark River Knife and Tool, Blackjack, and Marbles.
 
Depends on how much you want to spend. Look at the Dozier range as there will definately be a blade there to suit your needs.
 
My favorite hunting knife is my Puma "Hunter's Friend" and though I've been very impressed with it the few times that I've used it for bush craft, I hate to use it for anything but cleaning an animal. It's an awsome knife, too awsome for bushcraft.

My bushcraft tools are a USMC Kabar and a Victorinox "Soldier".

I could write a novel on why the combination of these two knives are perfect for bushcraft but I think it's already been written.

Will the knife you are looking for be the only knife you take in the woods?

Collecter
 
I wouldn't worry that much about the durability of most hunting knives in the moderate usage you are talking about. A nonstainless steel would give you a little greater durability margin. For a real using knife (rather than an emergency survival knife) you want a fairly thin bevel. A Cold Steel Master Hunter with a Carbon-V alloy blade (rather than the stainless version) would be fairly ideal. It has a thin enough edge to work as a hunting knife and a thick enough blade to work for splitting wood. The handle is reasonably large and would work well when batoning the blade.

The blade is a bit long if you used this knife on game smaller than deer. A buck 110 is a good secondary knife for the same purposes. I have used it for all your desired functions. It is short enough and pointy enough to work well on deer to rabbits. The Bark River sheath knives are enough shorter than the Master Hunter to cover all of your needs. I prefer a bit more of a guard on a hunting knife since your handle gets slippery when covered with blood. The shorter handle on the bark river knives and lack of a guard are the primary drawbacks I see for using them as your perfect knife.
 
Jeff, the handle on my Bark River "Highland" is quite comfortable for average size hands. More importantly, though, the scales are canvas micarta which seems to get "grippier" when wet. Just my .02.
 
I recently chose a Marble's Trailcraft over the Bark River offerings due to the larger guard on the Marble's knife. My Trailcraft has the gamegetter handle and a long straight brass guard. I don't think there is any way one's hand is going to slide past that guard. The Blackjack Trailguide also has a long guard.

I once read a post by Mike Stewart, the owner of Bark River knives. He said he does not like hunting knives with guards, so that is why the Bark River knives have small or no guards.
 
The hybrid hunter is an awesome cutter. The grind makes for a knife that is light saber sharp. I do not think it would be a good idea to split woiod with it though.

I would probably go for a BK-10.

The Fallknivens are nice, I believe they have the convex grind.
 
Master Hunter in Carbon V is an excellent choice !

Give a look to the Fred Perrin Spyderco Streetbowie !

cheers

JM
 
For the tasks you have described, I've been packing one of three knives: Fallvniven S-1; SOG Field Knife; Greco M.S.T. I like the S-1 best. All cut well for me, hold an edge, can be batonned to open up fire wood, and weigh 9 oz or less. (Saw :) !)
 
I almost bought a pendelton hunter when I first handled one. Lovely shape and I thought it would be a great shape for caribou rendering. The handle was big compared to the blade and it felt good in the hand. Aus 8 is a decent if not spectacular steel.

Fallkniven F1 or WM1 good choices as well. Becker neck knife looks like a good meaty small blade.

I just received a Swamprat CampTramp and it's a beaut...looking for a small companion knive so I am researching too. I am bending towards the WM1 by Fallkniven. 70 grams of purpose.

Barkriver mini-Canadian also has caught my eye.

If I was looking for the 1 knife I think I'd be tempted by the F1. Lots of research gone into this blade and a very hi-tech steel.

Good-luck.
 
There is also the VG-10 Spyderco Temperance. The blade shape is different from that of most knives made for skinning game, so I don't know how it would perform in that use. The blade shape is much like that of the Spyderco Endura and Delica folders. It is an excellent shape for utility purposes. It is epecially good in cases where you need to use the point of the knife.
 
I have been pretty happy with my Bark River Woodland Special. The A2 with a convex grind works well for carving, etc.
 
Neanderthal, I don't question the size of the handles on the Bark River knives for general handling; however, when I am batoning a knife I like either a longer handle or longer blade to give me more hand clearance when pounding on the blade.
 
My Marbles Fieldcraft and Swamprat Bandicoot have pretty well dominated the pack at my house ever since they got here.

The Fieldcraft is sharper and a more efficient cutter, and the Bandicoot is indestructible, as well as being a decent cutter.
 
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