Using BC Sealer Filler with Tru Oil

redsquid2

redsquid2

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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Sealer & Filler: I thought it was a good idea to get some of this stuff, so I bought some, and have so far used it on a few natural walnut handles. Up til then, had never used it: just the Tru Oil by itself up til recently. I figure if Sealer Filler does what it's name says, then I don't have to use as many coats of Tru-Oil. So here is what I have done recently: apply 3 coats of the Sealer Filler, then 2 or 3 of the Tru Oil. Then 3 coats of Johnson Past Wax. Results have been pretty good, except for one handle. I will report back here as I continue to use this combination. I decided to try this combination because I read a thread about how durable of a finish it makes.

Now regarding that one handle: The brass corby bolts kept discoloring the surrounding wood, as the brass sanding dust was "bleeding." The weather was really humid, so maybe I wasn't giving the Tru Oil enough time. I was giving it 24 hours, and sanding with a grey scotchbright between coats.

I am starting with a new handle right now, making the sanding slurry with the Sealer Filler. 1st coat: just rubbed it in real hard by hand. 2nd coat: just now did the 2nd coat, making a sanding slurry with 400 grit, and will just keep doing the sanding slurry repeatedly with Sealer Filler, until I am satisfied that it is good and filled. After that, I figure the Tru-Oil is more like icing on the cake, so only 2 or 3 coats of Tru Oil.

Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
No thoughts to add really...just enjoyed reading your wood finish steps! I like Tru Oil quite a bit, but have switched over to Watco Danish Oil for the most part, as it is thinner and seams to penetrate better. Tru Oil can be diluted to make it thinner if needed, tho. Never have used the BC Sealer/filler. After the handle (usually walnut or mesquite for me) is sanded to 600 or so, I apply the Danish oil liberally, and then go to town with 600 grit, forming a slurry, concentrating on the open pores, pressing the slurry into them. Tip.....let dry overnight...do not wipe off. I used to wipe it off immediately....basically negating all that work, wondering why it took so long to fill pores! After it has dried overnight, I'll do it again. After the next night, I do it again with Tru Oil this time instead of the Danish. Then the next day, a final coat of Tru Oil, wipe off excess, let dry overnight, and then Johnson's paste wax.

How are you liking the sealer/filler for pore filling?
 
samuraistuart

Well, now that you mentioned about wiping off the excess slurry, I realize that is what I have been doing. That may be hurting my results. Now that you mention it, I guess I will stop it.

So far I have done three handles, and they were sealed, of course, but not perfectly smooth. They looked good to me, just not "perfect". Then there was the one with the discoloration around the corbys.

Thanks for the tips. I really should allow more drying time. And stop wiping off the excess slurry.

Maybe 400 grit is too course for the slurry, but I figured it would work faster. We'll see.
 
samuraistuart

Well, now that you mentioned about wiping off the excess slurry, I realize that is what I have been doing. That may be hurting my results. Now that you mention it, I guess I will stop it.

So far I have done three handles, and they were sealed, of course, but not perfectly smooth. They looked good to me, just not "perfect". Then there was the one with the discoloration around the corbys.

Thanks for the tips. I really should allow more drying time. And stop wiping off the excess slurry.

Maybe 400 grit is too course for the slurry, but I figured it would work faster. We'll see.
 
400 grit is fine enough. The main thing with any sanding/sealer is it has to have time to dry. Let each coat dry and lightly sand again before the next coat. The word coat is a misnomer, as it penetrates the pores, not coats the surface.
 
I have been waiting 8 - 12 hours between coats, with the sealer/filler. The bottle says one hour between coats, so I think 8 - 12 should be sufficient.

I think I pressed down too hard when I sanded this morning. I was using sanding blocks to remove the dried slurry from the tang edges and corby bolts. I got the "dark goop" effect - just dark goop around the tang edges and bolts.
 
I'm about to give up on sanding the sealer/filler while it is wet. Too darn thick.
 
I don't use it often, but when I do - I put it on, let it sit for maybe 10-15 minutes to soak in a bit...and wipe it off completely. I let that dry and sand lightly, then repeat. The wood surface should feel silky smooth and not sticky at all or something is wrong.
 
bladsmth said:
I don't use it often, but when I do - I put it on, let it sit for maybe 10-15 minutes to soak in a bit...and wipe it off completely. I let that dry and sand lightly, then repeat. The wood surface should feel silky smooth and not sticky at all or something is wrong.
Click to expand...

If I were to let it sit for 10 minutes, there would be absolutely nothing to wipe off. It would be already semi-hard: no liquid, no tack, just completely dry and smooth to the touch. It is tacky in 2 minutes, semi-hard in 5 or 6. It's the Birchwood Casey Filler & Sealer. Maybe it came from a defective batch?
 
Stacy, are you this man?

TheMostInterestingManInTheWorld_1426.jpg


BTW, Stacy, the finish on my latest knife is shaping up nice. I am not rubbing crazy hard like I used to. I am lightly sanding.

I have now got 4 coats of sealer/filler, and 2 coats of Tru Oil. I will sand next time with 1000 grit, then white scotchbrite.

I am afraid of putting too many coats on there, because it might hide the color, so probably will stop after one more coat.
 
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redsquid2 said:
Stacy, are you this man?

TheMostInterestingManInTheWorld_1426.jpg


No, I am not that guy.
He doesn't ask for advice often, but when he does he has my number on sped dial. ;)

Funny thing is that we have nearly identical beards. My hair is still black, and I wish I had his salt and pepper. I have gone to a costume party as him with my hair and beard combed in with more white.




Here was a fun romp we did a while back about The Count:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...s-The-Count-and-what-you-don-t-know-about-him
Click to expand...
 
No comparison! You are much better looking, Stacy! And much smarter.....and by FAR more INTERESTING than this guy could DREAM of being!!!! And probably enjoy something a little more appealing than dos equiz!
 
How do you deal with the exposed part of the tang? if you are not wiping off the tru-oil, it will build up and be visible on the part that is visible between the scales.
 
gsain said:
How do you deal with the exposed part of the tang? if you are not wiping off the tru-oil, it will build up and be visible on the part that is visible between the scales.
Click to expand...

I have struggled with this question too. The processes which are typically prescribed are best used for sealing and finishing of woods that are a bit porous or ones which tend to inherently have have voids or cracks like snakewood or amboyna and other common hardwoods.. The idea is to fill the voids with the finish and skarf, let it harden, apply at least another coat, and let it harden, and then sand everything back down to the original size (thus removing the finish on your exposed portion of the tang or guard). The final step is to polish with a rouge and/or wax. You'd be surprised by how much better the wood finish will be compared to simply sanding to a fine grit with sandpaper and then polishing on a buffer with some rouge.

I find that tru-oil is a bit viscous and "thick". I recently used a specialty clear gloss waterproof wood sealer called "Gun Sav'r CP" which is available through Brownells or Midway. It was recommended by one of the mastersmiths, but I've lost the link. It is less viscous . . . almost watery, but left a fabulous finish on my last Snakewood knife handle after wet sanding by hand while progressing from 400 to 1500 grit in large leaps.

I have a heck of a time when trying to apply a tru-oil finish to woods like ironwood which are virtually void-free, very hard, and somewhat oily to begin with. Next time, I will coat and sand them with the Gun Sav'r CP product one step before my final hand sanding. I always buff with rouge for the final finish.

Mike L.
 
Double post.
 
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Double post.
 
Logem! Thanks for sharing your method!

Last night, after spending a week putting all that sealer/filler and Tru Oil on, I sanded lightly with 1500 grit, then with a white scotchbrite pad. It did not look good. It looked like streaks of alternating shiny/dull. So I applied three coats of paste wax, thinking that would make it all even out. But it didn’t.

Now here's the stupid part: Next, I put a little buffer wheel on the Dremel tool, and put some green paste on it. Very delicately, I touched it to the handle of the knife, and started moving it around, and... it chewed right down to bare wood, creating a couple of divots. So I put the Dremel tool down and slowly backed away.
I think I’ll just wipe down the whole thing with paint thinner to remove the paste wax. Then put more Tru Oil on, moreso on that part that I messed up with the Dremel tool.
 
The adventure continues.
 
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