using "bead wire" on thermocouple

Most thermocouple wire will be combined with a ceramic "sheath" and the bead sticking out the end.

Nice unit...reads J and K range.
 
I was wondering about that -- where would I get such a "sheath," or can I just use it as is?
 
The thermo's I have came with the ceramics . If it burns out, strip the wires back, feed through and twist. Use a torch to melt the wires together in a little bead and done.... Jim Arbuckle showed me that. I've used a arc juntion thermo machine , but never a torch.
 
as far as I can remember (in the truck, got it over lunch), it had no ceramics. hmmm...
 
Cool, Im glad you got it today. Im no expert but what works for me is, you just have to keep it out of the direct path of the flame. I came through the top of my forge at the fathest end and bent the wire into a "j" shape so it ends up in the middle of my forge just above where my blade sits . Like i said, the plastic on the wire will burn off but it doesnt seem to affect it at all. Shawn
 
You need to get a K-type thermocouple. K would cover a pretty wide temp range, but
still I would not let it sit directly in the path of propane flame.

TJ36-CAIN-18G-12 @ http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=TJ36-ICIN&Nav=tema07 : 12" long 1/8" shielded grounded K-type TC.

$28 or so. Or pay $4 @ Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/Type-K-thermoco...7598794580QQcategoryZ1267QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

BTW, for about $40 you can get a PID controller - not only will it measure the temp,
but will also control a gas solenoid valve or electrical spiral, to maintain the temp at the level
you set. You might need an optional SSR to control spiral (another $4 @ ebay)


http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-Digit...598488637QQcategoryZ50974QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-Digit...598488637QQcategoryZ50974QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
ok, rashid...you got my attention....:eek:


Got a link for the SSR?

And a simple diagram of how it all works together?
 
Thanks for the help with that Shawn. Played around with it last night and it seems like a pretty nice little machine. It has alarms, timers, and all sorts of good stuff. :D

Thanks for the link Rashid -- :)
 
Thanks for the link Rashid. I have a wax injecter that runs at about 130f that I recently converted to a 300 watt cartridge heater but I have had 4 in a row well emersion controllers that turned out to be defective. I plan to try one of the controllers from your link. Question is -- is there any reason I can't just hook into the present system -- it uses an old fastion 120 volt relay to send power to the heater so the load isn't on the controller.
 
the output of PID controller is usually of 2 types:

- normally open relay, capable of modest current (3A or so).
- normally low 12 VDC SSR control.

The SSRs are so cheap and reliable, they'd be my first choice.
The relay output is good for low voltage, non-inductive loads.
 
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