Using Glue As Finish

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Dec 26, 2021
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I saw a knife maker on YouTube rub some type of clear glue on his wooden knife handle. He rubbed briefly and it dried quickly. He sanded it lightly then buffed it and it came out beautifully smooth and shiny. I know someone out there knows what this glue is. Can you share that with me.

Thanks so much in advance for your knowledge.

Mike
 
Yup. Super glue. I also use two part epoxy as a finish. Thin with acetone and apply. Test it first to see if the finish is shiny enough for you.
I use this a lot for paracord/twine wrapped handles. Apply heavily and let it soak in, a couple/few coats, makes a pretty solid handle.
 
Can also use polyurethane glue, a.k.a., 'Gorilla Glue'. I did that with three Opinels of mine after reshaping the handles and sanding to a high-grit finish (600+). The Gorilla Glue is rubbed on in VERY THIN coats, using maybe a BB-sized drop on a clean cloth (I used an old tee-shirt) which cures pretty fast - I give it 30 minutes or more to be sure. Applying too heavily will result in excessive bubbling of the finish as the glue cures in a reaction with moisture in the air. These knives had about 3 coats each. Not much buffing needed either, as the high-grit sanding accounts for much of the gloss and the glue finish helps emphasize that, bringing out more of the grain & figure and making the color really pop. I think the glue also imparts a very subtle honey / amber tone to the finish on light-colored woods as well, which I like.
by1eCYA.jpg
 
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Can also use polyurethane glue, a.k.a., 'Gorilla Glue'. I did that with three Opinels of mine, after reshaping the handles and sanding to a high-grit finish (600+). The Gorilla Glue is rubbed on in VERY THIN coats, using maybe a BB-sized drop on a clean cloth (I used an old tee-shirt) which cures pretty fast - I give it 30 minutes or more to be sure. Applying too heavily will result in excessive bubbling of the finish as the glue cures in a reaction with moisture in the air. Each of these knives had about 3 coats each. Not much buffing needed either, as the high-grit sanding accounts for much of the gloss, and the glue finish helps emphasize that.
by1eCYA.jpg
Where did you get your stamp and about how much do they cost?
 
A while ago I found a video on Youtube about a guy doing wooden pens. He also did this super glue finish. He did 5 or 6 layers. Type a few key words in Youtube... you will find his tutorial what glue to use and how to do it.
I also tried this on my Opinel handle and it worked.
Don't forget protection glasses and a mask.
 
Can also use polyurethane glue, a.k.a., 'Gorilla Glue'. I did that with three Opinels of mine after reshaping the handles and sanding to a high-grit finish (600+). The Gorilla Glue is rubbed on in VERY THIN coats, using maybe a BB-sized drop on a clean cloth (I used an old tee-shirt) which cures pretty fast - I give it 30 minutes or more to be sure. Applying too heavily will result in excessive bubbling of the finish as the glue cures in a reaction with moisture in the air. These knives had about 3 coats each. Not much buffing needed either, as the high-grit sanding accounts for much of the gloss and the glue finish helps emphasize that, bringing out more of the grain & figure and making the color really pop. I think the glue also imparts a very subtle honey / amber tone to the finish on light-colored woods as well, which I like.
by1eCYA.jpg
I’ve never thought about using Gorilla glue. I’ve used super glue in the past but like the idea of the hint of color tone change That you got from the Gorilla glue. Thanks for sharing this.
 
Goriila glue is polyurethane glue, so just use polyurethane finish? CA glue is different, there are no CA wood finishes.
 
I’ve used 2part clear epoxy as a finish, on a knife that I fully shaped the scales before gluing and riveting them. (Whether that’s a good idea or not is open to question.) I had some thin epoxy squeeze out, and I just smeared it around and over the scales and clamped the knife by the blade to let it cure.

It cured shinier than I wanted, so I then used a couple grades of steel wool to cut the gloss.

Be aware that UV rays degrade epoxy, this knife wasn’t damaged that way during the 2ish years I carried it outside frequently.

Parker
 
I’ve used 2part clear epoxy as a finish, on a knife that I fully shaped the scales before gluing and riveting them. (Whether that’s a good idea or not is open to question.) I had some thin epoxy squeeze out, and I just smeared it around and over the scales and clamped the knife by the blade to let it cure.

It cured shinier than I wanted, so I then used a couple grades of steel wool to cut the gloss.

Be aware that UV rays degrade epoxy, this knife wasn’t damaged that way during the 2ish years I carried it outside frequently.

Parker
Acetone thins epoxy nicely.
 
Honestly, probably be better of just using Danish Oil.
One of the three Opinels I pictured earlier, the walnut-handled one, was originally finished in Danish Oil (Watco) after an earlier reshaping attempt of the handle. In terms of sealing & protecting the wood, I assume it was fine. But one thing I didn't particularly like about it was that it never really took a shine and also tended to collect dirt & grime from handling. The Danish oil finish was softer, so dirt & stuff tended to embed to some degree. So the finish always looked kind of drab and dirty. I knew after some time, I wanted to try something different with that knife. So, the 2nd time around, I did some more sanding & thinning out of the handle, removing the Danish oil finish in the process. Using the Gorilla Glue was a choice of convenience, after I'd learned it can be used for such things (I first saw it demo'd this way on an episode of 'Ask This Old House' on PBS). I just happened to have a small bottle of Gorilla Glue that was seldom being used for anything else. So after testing how it worked on some pieces of scrap wood, I committed to using it for the Opinel project. Worked out great, without the drabness and also doing much better at preventing the accumulation of dirt. It's a much harder finish and has turned out to be very durable as well. I carry the 'Carbone' No. 08 pretty often in-pocket, and the polyurethane finish has resisted the scuffs & scratches that can result from rubbing against other items in the pocket like keys, coins & such.
 
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the walnut-handled one, was originally finished in Danish Oil (Watco) after an earlier reshaping attempt of the handle. In terms of sealing & protecting the wood, I assume it was fine. But one thing I didn't particularly like about it was that it never really took a shine and also tended to collect dirt & grime
Danish oil can be tricky and confusing. Some have hardeners in them, and some don't, so you can get varying finishes.
polyurethane finish has resisted the scuffs & scratches
This is an Opinel that i used Gorilla Glue on, as you say protects the wood and i really liked the result. You can also knock some of the shine off with 0000 steel wool if you like.

p9Xiasq.jpg
 
I really should have mentioned that the knives and tools I make are primitive users, not the high fit and finish pieces like some of the makers on this forum create. Therefore, my methods and sequences might not work for what you want to produce.

Nevertheless, it’s what I did, so now you know.

Parker
 
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