Using implement disc for knife making

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Feb 11, 2013
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I am relaay new to knife making. I recently was given several disc (possiably from a wheat drill) thinking that they might make some good knives. I can cut them with a 4" abrasive wheel, but a drill bit won't touch them. After some phone calls and research I found out that they are called boron steel, which has excelent wear resistannce.
Has anybody els used this kind of steel? Is there a good way to soften it so it can have holes drilled? I also read that it can be water or oil quenched. I put a piece in the vice and hit it several times, it didn't break just bent.
Any information would be very helpfull.
Thanks from a newbi.
 
I would think it would work. First I good take a piece you cut off and get it red hot with a torch then quench in water or oil what ever is easier for you then try and brake it by placing in vise and hitting with a hammer it should be brittle and break. As for drilling your hole try heating the spot you want to drill with a torch and slow cool. that should soften it up.
 
I am relaay new to knife making. I recently was given several disc (possiably from a wheat drill) thinking that they might make some good knives. I can cut them with a 4" abrasive wheel, but a drill bit won't touch them. After some phone calls and research I found out that they are called boron steel, which has excelent wear resistannce.
Has anybody els used this kind of steel? Is there a good way to soften it so it can have holes drilled? I also read that it can be water or oil quenched. I put a piece in the vice and hit it several times, it didn't break just bent.
Any information would be very helpfull.
Thanks from a newbi.


i don't know enough about knife making to be of much help on the heat treat process but do know this material is used in the automotive industry and is advised to be careful with when heating it up as it loses strength in heat affected areas, as for drilling hole you need a tungsten carbide bit , they can be had at wall mart for about $8 or so and should be sufficient for popping a few holes for some scales....
here found it:
drill bit

edit: never mind my terrible explanation i found this:
http://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/Article/2915/working_with_boron_steel.aspx
 
Talk to Richardj. If I'm not mistaken, he uses implament disks for his knives and says they are 1075 (John Deere).
 
There are a lot of different boron steels. The hardness of some of the boron steels will top off @ HRc of 55. This is a little bit softer than most modern knives. If you can get your boron steel to harden in the 50s it could be tougher than a 1075 -1084 steel at the same hardness. From reading, the heat treatment will require a higher temperature than simple high carbon steel before quench. The specific boron steel used in your discs might limit the hardness of your knives to the HRc in the 40s, maybe lower. Older ground engaging steel was often times eutectoid steel. Such steel 1075 - 1084 has been used to make some excellent knives. A bonus on the non boron eutectoid steel is the heat treatment is fairly simple.
 
Welcome to Shop Talk. Filling out your profile with all the requested info - location, age, occupation, skills and hobbies, etc. - will hep us help you. With that info, new members are often offered a free bar of steel from a nearby smith.
Other kind offers for help may happen, too.


If it is a new boron steel disc, don't bother trying to make a knife. It will be mediocre at best. If it is an antique disc, it is probably a mid range 10XX steel like 1075-1080. These make excellent knifes. Even if it is such a disc, I would suggest setting it aside and using a new bar of 1084. You will know what it is, and can do the HT the easiest way. That disc will be there when you have more skill and knowledge.

The sticky at the top of the Shop Talk page on Instructions for Making a Knife is aimed at a brand new maker. The rest of the stickies are packed with info you will want to know.
 
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