Using Pumice to Bring out Hamons! Pics

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Well I read on a different forum that some folks use pumice to counter polish hamons and bring out that white cigarette smoke look. I tried it on a Brisket slicer I'm working on, and really like the results I got. I think Im going to have to permanently add the technique to my hamon polishing routine.

So here is what I did... Basically hand sanded the blade to 2500 grit. Then I started etching with lemon juice and a mix of vinegar and ferric, alternating between the two. I went back and forth, etching and sanding with worn 2500 grit Rhynowet Redline paper until I got the hamon about where i wanted it. I then lightly etched only the hamon area with lemon juice on a q-tip and let it set for a few minutes. After that I polished the whole blade with flitz. The hamon was really looking good by this point. I then took cotton balls and sprayed some japanese camellia oil on them and dipped them in FF pumice to coat the cotton. I then started rubbing the hamon with the pumice coated cotton ball like crazy (only the hamon and under towards the edge). I continued this and worked my way up from FF pumice to FFF pumice and finished with FFFF Pumice. Let my preface these pics by saying that I am no expert in creating or polishing hamons. That being said I am confident that my techniques work for ME. Id be happy to answer any questions I can. I just snapped some quick pics while and after I was polishing, so sorry for the amateur photos.

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Great looking steel. I like using pumice too, but I don't know that I've gotten results that nice yet...
 
Beautiful results!!! :) :thumbup: :cool:


Your post is more proof, to me, that there are a zillion ways to skin a cat.... and that there is no exact process for every single knife maker to follow to bring out a hamon.

I have both super fine pumice, and rottenstone in my shop. I have found them to be great for some aspects of finishing wood, but I didn't like the results I got on steel. I'm clearly not saying "it doesn't work" because you have very convincing evidence that it works VERY well. I just couldn't make it work for me.

I've had guys show me blades that they polished out, and said they followed a polishing thread I did to a T. Yet, for whatever reasons, their polished blades looked totally different than mine... and totally different from one another!

In the same vein of thought, I used to be absolutely convinced a blade had to be sanded to a base polish of 2,000X or 2,500X in order to really show a hamon. But recently, I have been experimenting with polishing from a base finish of 500X with very positive results. It's still a lot of work, and has taken a lot of blood, sweat, and tears, but it just goes to show there is no definitive, absolutes when it comes to polishing.

GREAT JOB!!! :)
 
Thanks Nick! For you to even look at one of my posts means a lot. As a matter of fact, I have several pics of hamons you have done saved on my computer to motivate and inspire me to keep at it and do the best I can. I really appreciate it!

I have been thinking about trying a more satin base finish myself. Hamons really reflect light really wild like with a satin base finish. I'm gonna have to play around some more. HAMONS ARE LIKE SOME WOMEN... CRAZY AND UNPREDICTABLE!!! Lol Jk

Salem- It was one if your posts in another forum that gave me the idea to use pumice. Imitation is the most sincerest form of flattery my friend. You do top notch work and I have learned a lot from your posts and wips!
 
The hamon looks great. It is a lot of work to get a hamon to look like that. A lot of people don't realize that just to bring the hamon out (not even as well as you did) takes an extra couple hours. I have tried Nick's method, and a few others. I have some rottenstone, and some flitz, and I play with different techniques. Nick is right, there are about a zillion ways to get the hamon to appear, but it all stems from doing the proper heat treat and using the correct steel. It looks like you nailed both of those. Another site for great hamons is Don Hanson's website. He is the one who got me hooked on them.
 
Couldnt agree more Matt! Thanks for the kind words! It really means a lot! Im really digging this pocket knife I got from you btw. The bone handle is awesome! love it
 
I love this forum!! There's just sooooooo much really good info being passed around here.
Lemon juice below the hamon line only, and pumice you say. Cool, things I actually have that I don't need to spend $$$$'s on.

That is AWSOME Mason.

-Peter
 
Cool, things I actually have that I don't need to spend $$$$'s on.


EXACTLY!! And I agree about the forum! Most everything I've learned can be sourced from the awesome members here!
Thanks Peter! :)
 
I really like to use FF pumice to help bring hamons out, also (with vinegar etching and MAAS polish above the hamon). Works best for me. Here are two different bauernwehrs.

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Pattern welded combo of W2 and Aldo's 1075

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Aldo's 1075


pattern weld of W2 and 1075

I use the pumice dry and feel where it bites and rub it to bring out the activity.
 
Those are awesome! I've read a lot of threads you have recommended the use of pumice in hamons Kevin. So much great info out there!
 
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Kevin- what grit do you stop at as your base polish before you start the pumice? You got great results on those blades!
 
Nice to know about the pumice. I usually use the lacquered Hazuya finger stones from namikawa heibei. I also got some lacquered jizuya for the Jihada (above the Hamon), but I've found that 4000 grit micromesh does a better job (it's more blue than the jizuya). Judging from the pics so far, I think the Hazuya stones give a more even coverage of the white, but I like the extra contrast at the transition. I'll post a pick later, when I get home.
 
I've used pumice and gotten good results, but...it was only superficial. When I wiped the blade with plain water after polishing with the pumice, the color/hamon went back to what it was before I started. In other words, the effect I got with the pumice was only surface. It didn't really affect the hamon at all. With that said, I'm not an expert, and I could have done something wrong. But I won't bother with it again. I think the effect you got was the result of good sanding techniques and careful etching.
 
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