Using Sharpening Films

me2

Joined
Oct 11, 2003
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I just picked up a sample pack of honing films from the local woodworking shop. I have 15, 5, and 0.3 micron films. Are these used with a trailing stroke? I dont have an aluminum base, so what else can I back them with? It says they are reusable. For paring knives and such in the kitchen (my test blades) will I get a couple of uses out of them, or more?
 
I've only ever used a few "lapping films", so I can't be sure that edge leading strokes are in any way wrong. Just seems to me that edge trailing strokes are more natural once the edge gets down to that level of sharpness, and I also speculate that edge leading strokes would remove some of the abrasive.
As for a backing, I used panes of glass, think a woodworking buddy recommended it, can't remember anything these days :p Hopefully someone who has more experience with this kind of sharpening medium will come along and either confirm or correct what I've said.

Edit: Almost forgot the issue of longevity, not sure if it was quality of the "film" or what, but I was typically able to only get about 3 or 4 uses out of them before I notice them start to wear a little. The grit seemed more refined I guess you'd say, I'm assuming because less and less of the abrasive remained after each session.
Anyhow, good luck with the film and I hope ya get the results you're after.


Gautier
 
i have been using lee valley's sharpening films for convex sharpening. i got a sheet of 15, 5 and 0.5 each.

i don't have a proper base for using them flat, i want to get one eventually. what you can use instead is a pane of glass. i know lee valley sells one that is guaranteed flat to something like .0005 inches or something for like $15 or something...i haven't checked in a while. i had a perfect piece of glass i pulled out of an old scanner, but i threw it out before i realized what i could use it for.

my film seems to work well and hold its bite well, but i don't use it very often or very much when i use it, just for a few strokes to touchup. i use the .5 micron the most to remove a burr on larger blades where i take the film to the blade instead of taking my blade to the strop.

mess around and see what works for you. i like the film and think i will like it more when i get a good base.
 
What grit can I go to before starting on the 15um film? I have a course/fine India, an 800x waterstone, and a Sharpmaker. The film feels nearly as course as my course India stone, but looking at Lee Valleys site, its supposed to have a particle size smaller than the 800x waterstone.
 
15 micron is about the same as 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper or a 1000 grit waterstone (only with SiC instead of AO), so whatever you use before breaking out the 800 King would do. If you barely use any more pressure than the weight of the blade when sharpening, they do a great job. If you're a bit ham-handed, the 0.3 micron film (and its 1 micron stepbro) do a great job, but waterstones would work better in the 15 and 5 micron slots.

They work perfectly well dry, but work better and last longer if used with a light lubricant. Brent Beach uses light mineral oil and I've had good luck with purell of all things. When I use water or use them dry, they load up quickly, but still work.
 
I use micro-abrasive films almost exclusively, unless I have to reprofile, remove a bad nick, etc. I always use an edge-trailing stroke (as in stropping).
Edge-leading strokes will shave the abrasive off the film.
 
Ok, I tried the lapping films for the first time tonight. I got out the old RADA Cutlery Santoku. I cut the edge off first using some 90 degree strokes into the course India stone. Then I put the film on a piece of glass, starting with the 15 um film. Using trailing strokes, I worked up just a hint of a burr. I then went to trailing strokes on the 5 um film. After about 20 strokes on each side, I did a couple of deburring edge-leading strokes and was rewarded with an edge that could barely catch hair above my skin. Then I raised the angle about 3 degrees and did alternating edge-leading strokes on the 0.3 um film. This produced an edge sharper than my Spyderco fine triangles, and mabye a little sharper than off the powered leather strop. Catches head hair above the skin, which is finer than my arm hair. Easily push cut the label off a 20 oz soda bottle. I think I'll keep using these until they wear out and see how long they make it. The RADA Cutlery knife was back beveled on the 800 grit waterstone, then the angle increased about 3-5 degrees for 15 um and 5 um, then again about 3 degrees for 0.3 um. This was mostly for speed. Edge-leading strokes were very light, like Thom said, about the weight of the knife. I must say I like the glass base. I get nice, even cutting action across the blade with no dips or anything. I'll try the Faberware chef's knife this weekend.
 
Do you still have any RC66 knives in 1095? They'll reward your 0.3µ efforts better than a Rada.
 
Unfortunately no. I gave that one away and broke the other one. If I can ever get my butt out to the shop and finish the grinding, I could have a 1095, RC 63-64 Santoku, but it hasnt happened yet.
 
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