Using Sharpmaker angles + Stropping

[joelozzy]

Hey Guys,

I have a few questions that I'd really appreciate some help with. Will try to keep this clear and concise.

I plan on using my Sharpmaker to maintain all my edges on my knives.

I know to use the 20 deg setting. But does this mean all my Bevels have to be less than 20 degrees to ensure I'm hitting the apex of the edge? Or if I continue sharpening with the 20deg side I will eventually hit the apex?
My father in law also has a Lansky guided rod system. Would it be beneficial to work the knives on the 17 degree setting for the Bevel quickly and than maintain on the Sharpmakers 20 deg setting? Can someone please explain the best option for me?

When re profiling using the Diamond stones is it best to stick with the flat sides to minimise pressure on the blade?

Also I have a Leather Strop by Stropman. I have the White and Green compounds. Would anyone have any idea as to how coarse the compounds are in relation to the Spyderco Ultra Fine stones. Am I going backwards going from sharpening on the Ultrafine stones than stropping with the White than the green compound?


Thanks guys!

Joel

 

[cbwx34]

Hey Guys,

I have a few questions that I'd really appreciate some help with. Will try to keep this clear and concise.

I plan on using my Sharpmaker to maintain all my edges on my knives.

I know to use the 20 deg setting. But does this mean all my Bevels have to be less than 20 degrees to ensure I'm hitting the apex of the edge? Or if I continue sharpening with the 20deg side I will eventually hit the apex?
My father in law also has a Lansky guided rod system. Would it be beneficial to work the knives on the 17 degree setting for the Bevel quickly and than maintain on the Sharpmakers 20 deg setting? Can someone please explain the best option for me?

When re profiling using the Diamond stones is it best to stick with the flat sides to minimise pressure on the blade?

Also I have a Leather Strop by Stropman. I have the White and Green compounds. Would anyone have any idea as to how coarse the compounds are in relation to the Spyderco Ultra Fine stones. Am I going backwards going from sharpening on the Ultrafine stones than stropping with the White than the green compound?


Thanks guys!

Joel

For best results on the Sharpmaker, the main bevel should be below 20 deg., not only to insure that you're hitting the edge, but the Sharpmaker's small and relatively fine abrasives don't remove a lot of metal, so it isn't the best method to sharpen at 20 deg. and hope you eventually reach the apex. It's also a good idea that, once you have a knife setup to maintain on the Sharpmaker (bevel below 20 deg.) you should occasionally "refresh" this bevel... (you can do it by following the Sharpmaker instructions of using the 15 deg. side then the 20 deg. side). The knife will cut better if you have a thinner bevel, and just use the 20 deg. to set the final edge.

Using the Lansky to set the bevel is a good idea... and yes I would set it below 20 deg. You could also use the Lansky to occasionally refresh the edge as explained above.

I would only use the flat side of the diamonds, and would use them on the 15 deg. side. Also, you don't have to sharpen all the way to the edge with the diamonds... you can use them just to "thin behind the edge" at 15 deg. as you get close to the edge you can switch to the medium stone to smooth out the diamond bevel, then switch to the 20 deg. side to set the edge, using only the stones (no diamond). If you do this, it takes very little work at 20 deg. to set the cutting edge... you can do it with as little as ½ dozen strokes on the medium stone, (assuming the edge is in decent shape)

Don't have your particular strop, but in general strops typically finish at a finer level (since some of the abrasive gets embedded into the strop), so moving from stone to strop shouldn't be "going backwards". You'll be able to tell if you are based on the finish (and if you can't tell, it doesn't matter). I also wouldn't strop too much, since it will inevitably convex the very edge, (or increase the angle if not done very carefully) making it harder for the Sharpmaker to contact the edge. Personally, if I was going to use the Sharpmaker to maintain an edge, I would use the strop minimally, just to clean up any residual burr or wire edge that may be present.

One additional thought... both the Sharpmaker and the Lansky can be a bit slow in setting a bevel, so don't be surprised if it takes a while (depending on the knife's condition of course).

So quick summary of what I would do...

Set the main bevel with the diamond flats at 15 deg. or Lansky (and I'd do 15 deg. on this if possible, to better match the Sharpmaker for maintenance)
Clean up the 15 deg. bevel with a finer stone
Set the edge at 20 deg. with ½ dozen alternating strokes with the medium stones, flat side. Test the edge... should cleanly cut thru paper. If not, repeat until it does
Refine the edge with ½ dozen strokes fine stone flat side (optional, you may be happy with the medium stone finish)
Clean up the edge with ½ dozen (or less) on the strop, if needed/desired

For maintenance...

Touch up the edge with ½ dozen strokes on the fine (or medium, whichever you stopped at) stones (flat side) as needed (or strop). (Test edge and repeat as needed).
Every 3-4 touch ups, use the 15 deg. side, medium stone (flat side) for 20-30 strokes (more if needed) to keep the bevel thinned behind the cutting edge.

This should keep a great edge cutting for a long time.

Hope it helps... let me know if this makes sense (or not).

 

[joelozzy]

Hey CB,

I can't Thank you enough for your highly detailed response.
I will definitely put this into practice Tonight and see how I go.
I'm wondering how people go re profiling using the Diamond and CBN Rods on the 30 degree setting?
Is it possible to simply have the flat side of the stone showing and run the blade up and down as opposed to switching sides each time to improve efficiency?

Thankyou again!

Joel

 

[cbwx34]

I'm wondering how people go re profiling using the Diamond and CBN Rods on the 30 degree setting?
Is it possible to simply have the flat side of the stone showing and run the blade up and down as opposed to switching sides each time to improve efficiency?

Joel

Yes, you can work the knife in both directions to reprofile a blade.... and work one side until you raise a burr, then switch. (Just make sure to work both sides about the same amount).

 

[TravisH]

Agree with all above.

I have used my SM's CBN tods to reprofile and repair using the flats.

I use jdavis882's technique as he demos in this video (starting at 2:30) ...

[video=youtube;-MHe_8wTHmg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MHe_8wTHmg[/video]