Using the "smooth" side of a strop/cleaning a strop

Joined
Dec 29, 2021
Messages
4,115
I was told not to do this. I don't remember why, or even if this is accurate information.

If you were me, would you clean off the rough side of your strop (and if so, any good methods for getting the green compound off? Sink, maybe?) or would you just use the smooth side? I am looking to apply some diamond emulsion on there to try to strop some S30V or 20CV or something. Thanks.
 
I use both rough and smooth sides of different strops.

I like smooth side better, if I'm being honest. I have one old strop bat that has 3 smooth and 1 rough. I don't use the rough side one near as much. I strop with loaded strops.
 
I use both rough and smooth sides of different strops.

I like smooth side better, if I'm being honest. I have one old strop bat that has 3 smooth and 1 rough. I don't use the rough side one near as much. I strop with loaded strops.
Good to know that the smooth side is fine! Going to try to load that bad boy up with diamonds shortly.
 
Prefer smooth side, especially with diamond spray/compound. I found that leather that is rough/fuzzy tends to round the apex far too easily. Smooth leather does not do that as easily.
 
I use the rough side loaded with green compound only for Convex grinds and to de-burr in between grits when sharpening.
Smooth side for finishing edges after sharpening and quick touch ups, mostly use untreated for final edge polish and loaded with 0.5 or 0.25 diamond spray for touch up work.
 
I generally prefer the rough side. The general advice I've seen is to use the rough side with coarser grit compounds and the smooth side with finer grits.
 
Prefer smooth side, especially with diamond spray/compound. I found that leather that is rough/fuzzy tends to round the apex far too easily. Smooth leather does not do that as easily.
Hey, buddy, I didn't want to start a new thread, so I went back to this one and thought I'd ask the first person I saw who uses diamond; do you have to let that stuff dry? I heard you did from one source, but couldn't find anything like that in the actual literature of the emulsion. Do you let yours dry?

If it's relevant, I have Wicked Edge 1 mic Diamond Emulsion.
 
Last edited:
I generally prefer the rough side. The general advice I've seen is to use the rough side with coarser grit compounds and the smooth side with finer grits.
That's interesting. Could you say up to what grit a compound is coarser and what are Finger grits? As far as I know you can buy compounds around 3000 Grit what will be coarser. And 0,25 micron diamond spray and maybe even finer.
 
That's interesting. Could you say up to what grit a compound is coarser and what are Finger grits? As far as I know you can buy compounds around 3000 Grit what will be coarser. And 0,25 micron diamond spray and maybe even finer.
I'd just be guessing, but my guess would be rough side with compounds of the 3+ micron variety, and smooth side with <3 micron. But having said that, I've seen folks who know what they're doing using rough side for everything, and others who use smooth side for everything. I guess it just comes down to what works best for you. For me, I generally get better results with sueded strops.
 
Hey, buddy, I didn't want to start a new thread, so I went back to this one and thought I'd ask the first person I saw who uses diamond; do you have to let that stuff dry? I heard you did from one source, but couldn't find anything like that in the actual literature of the emulsion. Do you let yours dry?

If it's relevant, I have Wicked Edge 1 mic Diamond Emulsion.

I let it dry, but am not too strict about it. Long as it's dry enough not to still be a paste that gets pushed around by the knife (and you really shouldn't be slopping it on like that anyway). Emulsion takes maybe a little longer, but usually say 3-5 minutes is plenty in my experience.
 
do you have to let that stuff dry?
It is personal choice, i do, but i have plenty of time on my hands. :rolleyes: :) I apply one light spray, leave it overnight then another light spray and leave that overnight. Seems to last longer, but i may be imagining it. Sometimes you can talk yourself into what you want to believe, but it does seem to last longer between recoats.
 
It is personal choice, i do, but i have plenty of time on my hands. :rolleyes: :) I apply one light spray, leave it overnight then another light spray and leave that overnight. Seems to last longer, but i may be imagining it. Sometimes you can talk yourself into what you want to believe, but it does seem to last longer between recoats.
I left it for about an hour and a half, seems like a good medium between "all night' and "3-5 minutes" recommended by the previous poster :)

So far, I have been struggling with getting my Moras sharp on the sharpmaker, as well as an S30V Leatherman Wingman blade. The strop seemed to do something to it, for sure! Did not make them razors, but I can see the difference in the polish of the edge, and in the way that it cuts. I think I am stropping semi-right, at least, to get this result.
 
I'd just be guessing, but my guess would be rough side with compounds of the 3+ micron variety, and smooth side with <3 micron. But having said that, I've seen folks who know what they're doing using rough side for everything, and others who use smooth side for everything. I guess it just comes down to what works best for you. For me, I generally get better results with sueded strops.
Thanks. Some even strop on a worn, uneven leatherbelt. And it seems to work. It seems to be the same as with other sharpening equipment: You'll have to find what works for you.
 
Thanks. Some even strop on a worn, uneven leatherbelt. And it seems to work. It seems to be the same as with other sharpening equipment: You'll have to find what works for you.
Exactly, try and keep it simple and find out what works for you. 👌 😍
 
Back
Top