Vanadium M2

Joined
Dec 6, 2010
Messages
1,154
There is a chunk of steel in my shop labeled Vanadium M2. We used this for making punches to cut SST 3/4 hard .090. It was chosen to wear well, while not chipping. The thought is this would make a good knife.

Much appreciation if someone familiar with this material would chime in as to what their opinions of this material is, and what, if any knives it would be suitable for.
 
I use M2 for light and medium duty knives, I'd use it more if I had more, but powder stainless is available for similar prices or less... I've found it works for knife edges better than the charts suggest.
 
I use M2 for light and medium duty knives, I'd use it more if I had more, but powder stainless is available for similar prices or less... I've found it works for knife edges better than the charts suggest.

Thanks for the reply. I have the ability to work this material in the hardened condition, and I remember it being very hard.
 
M2 makes a good knife, I dont know about the vanadium in front, but if it is an addition to rgular M2 that just means more wear resistance. should be good stuff
 
M2 HSS makes a good high hardness knife (HRC 64 or more). It is not common in knife blades because it is difficult to sharpen and the heat treat (to do it right) is difficult.

No, it really isn't too chippy, which is surprising considering its high hardness and high carbide fraction. If memory serves me I believe it is relatively low carbon compared to the other high alloy super steels, so I wonder if it forms a lath martensite. Good stuff, should probably be used more than it is, but like I said the HT isn't trivial.
 
M2 HSS makes a good high hardness knife (HRC 64 or more). It is not common in knife blades because it is difficult to sharpen and the heat treat (to do it right) is difficult.

No, it really isn't too chippy, which is surprising considering its high hardness and high carbide fraction. If memory serves me I believe it is relatively low carbon compared to the other high alloy super steels, so I wonder if it forms a lath martensite. Good stuff, should probably be used more than it is, but like I said the HT isn't trivial.

I have EDM machines, and it is already professionally hardened. I am in the planning stages of a few folders now.
 
Yeah, prehardened is the only way I have every worked with it (I'm not set up with a molten salt quench for a proper ht) and I have found it to be an excellent blade steel. Some folks use M2 power hacksaw blades as a source. I have used lathe parting tools.

EDM is handy, but if you're setup for it, it can be ground too.


...ought to be great in a nice thin folder...
 
M2 already has some vanadium, but maybe you have some with even more. M2 from old power hacksaw blades is my favorite steel right now for my own knives. High hardness w/ high wear resistance and reasonable toughness. I've yet to chip my M2 knife in use, including batoning, digging in wood and cutting 1095.
 
I make some knives. Sometimes out of a stock pile of CPM M2. That I have. I really like it. I get it 10 bar vacuum. Treated. Triple temper and cryo. It and 3v. Are the only thing that I outsource. It needs the full meal deal. Nitrogen quench and all. In my opinion. Go with it.
 
Im just glad I found a piece of A-2. In the tool room at my old. Work. For my first knife. (Not that this is your first. Just sayin ) THAN A PIECE OF M2 v, it doesn't dissapear when hardened. I rough mine
in with a 36 BLAZE. Have fun. Here is my finest battle with CPM M2. a 22" oal short sword at. .290
.
.
2011-01-01_16-27-37_671.jpg

.
2011-01-01_16-28-39_855.jpg
 
Im just glad I found a piece of A-2. In the tool room at my old. Work. For my first knife. (Not that this is your first. Just sayin ) THAN A PIECE OF M2 v, it doesn't dissapear when hardened.

What do you mean it doesn't dissapear when hardened?

That sword is tits. :thumbup:
 
M2 already has some vanadium, but maybe you have some with even more.

Pretty sure it has a bit of extra vanadium in it. We were punching 90 deg teeth into 3/4 hard sst so toughness and wear resistance were a must. I'll let you guys know how it works out.
 
You will find out. Lol. Just use sharp belts. It just doesn't go down without a fight. I rough mine in about 40 percent before heat treat. To save belts.
 
M2 makes a fantastic knife, I still have a good stock of the stuff.

Working it post heat treat for knives would be kinda nuts IMHO. It's tough enough to grind in the annealed state. Plus, it is very dimensionally stable during heat treating so you can virtually finish the knife, send it out for proper, professional heat treating and then you just finish up.

This is not a steel for home heat treating unless you really have the equipment and knowledge.

I usually have them take the hardness back to around HRC62-63 which makes the knives less subject to breakage. It does cut and cut and, if given the chance, it will rust and rust. It's a very good choice for high tech coatings like TiAlN, which is what I get done for most of my M2 knives. The coating vastly reduces - but doesnt eliminate - rusting.
 
Back
Top