Variable Speed Belt Grinder?????/

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
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I have an idea I want to try. I'm going to make a variable speed 2 by 72 grinder. Instead of making the motor variable speed, I was thinking about just using a belt driven set up and putting a step pulley on the motor or the arbor. Anyone ever tried this?????Take care! Michael

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
Yeah I built one with a step pulley on the drive wheel arbor and 1 on the motor.I went a little light on the shaft and overall frame.I have a 10 inch wheel and a 3-1\2 inch wheel from Sheffields I think.I have some problems with the belt wandering when I grind on the wheel.So pay a lot of attention to tracking and if you find something that works LET ME KNOW
Take care
PS the speed you get with the pulleys works fine.Be sure and put a guard over the belt and pulleys!!
TJ Smith

[This message has been edited by TJ Smith (edited 06 November 1999).]
 
TJ,thanks for the encouraging words!! For tracking, I am going to mount an idler/tracking pulley on a piece of flat steel and it to the grinder with a hinge. With a bolt that moves it up and down, it should track ok. I'll let you know how it works. Take care! Michael
 
L6,
I built all three of my belt grinders and have some ideas.....
1. After using 72" belts, go to the 108" size! I find that the larger belts track better, stay cooler and any of the abrasive companies either stock the or make them for a reasonable price.
2. All three of mine drive of the contact wheel. The first one I made was like a Bader that drove off the motor. I could never get it to track poperly.
3. With the "front wheel drive", I've found that the larger the idler wheel, the better it tracks. The ones I use are the only bought part on my machines! I use the Idler and tracking assembly from Burr King. The wheel is 8" dia.!!! With lots of crown.
4. Since my grinders drive off the contact wheel, I have the drive pully out in front. I run 3 size contact wheels on one grinder and the drive pullies are changed to give each wheel the proper speed.
5. I use those orange, segmented belts. They seem to cut down on noise and vibration.
6. I OVER built all 3 of mine. They must way 400lbs. BUT, they are rubber mounted to the tables and are totally vibration free!
I hope this is of some help!
Neil

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Thanks Neil!! How do the contact wheels change out with the drive pulley on the front? Do they just slip onto an arbor? Take care! Michael
 
just wrap a bunch of electricians tape (make sure you have it going the right way) around the center of your tracking pulley and it will work much better...at least an eigth of an inch high.. also make the bump smooth...have been doing that for years...machinist showed me....even have it on my tool and cutter grinder like that....
also the step pulley is a very good idea.. burr kings high end grinder is set up like that..it costs nearly 3k.....get a lot of steps...you want it to go slow.....and get a motor that is fairly slow......most are 3600 or 1750...but for a little more you can get one thats 2/3 speed....around 1175// and they make motors with switches that cut the speed in half....they are a little pricey but worth it....they also cut the hp in half too with the lower rpm......go price some at the local electric motor shop. if you know an electrician or someone who is important at a big factory you can save at least 1/3.
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[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 06 November 1999).]
 
L6,
On my machines, both pully and contact wheel go on the arbor-shaft. I use Nylock nuts to keep them tight.
Neil
 
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