Velvicut Hudson Bay?

ManOfSteel89

ManOfSteel89

Joined
May 20, 2012
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1,703
I just pulled the trigger on my first big boy axe. The velvicut Hudson Bay by council tool. I bought it because I've been doing a lot of reading and watching videos and I think that something in that size range/weight is what I need for strapping to my pack and heading into the woods. I also like the Hudson Bay pattern, don't know why but it reminds me a lot of a tomahawk and I love it, even though it doesn't have much contact with the haft. So did I make a good call? Anybody have one and want to speak on it? Or the pattern, size/weight, or some recommendations for an axe newbie??
 
They are well liked by many, and used by more. Lot's of guys like it for camping/bushcrafting, etc. Nice size for that. Let us know what you think when you get it - after all - that is what really matters. And lets see some pics!

Thanks!
 
I think you'll like your new Velvicut Hudson Bay. I purchased one a few months ago and have been very pleased with its performance, I particularly like the premium handle. Despite the smaller contact area between the handle and head I've never had any issues with any of my Hudson Bay axes that I hafted myself.

Steve
 
Thanks guys. Anything I need to know when I first get it? Or little secrets that newbie's never know and need to know?
 
First thing I would do, as most would, is check the bit. Make sure it is in good condition. No dings, etc. It will be sharp, and might be sharp enough for you, might not be, each man has his own specs.

Next I am checking the cheeks of the axe, making sure they are meeting the specs, concave, convex, centerline, etc. This again will vary from user specs and likes, but you should have a rough idea of what you are getting on a new axe like this.

Next I am checking the haft fit in the eye. For me, bottom of the eye first - I want to see how old hickory fits up in the eye - you should not see massive gaps between eye and haft. Will you see minute gaps? Perhaps. Is it a worry? Really depends on the size of the gaps. All things considered the bottom should pretty much be air tight. Next the top of the eye, I want to make sure the haft is tight up top - no gaps in between. With the velvicut the haft should be extended from the eye top, this will make it almost impossible for the head to come loose(almost, not in stone).

If we are good to go there, I am looking at the shoulder - how does the head fit on it - is it low enough for good balance, is it too high, etc.

Then I am looking at the end of the haft, the foot - is the grain in good alignment? You will get 1000 opinions on how important that is. You will have to make that decision yourself. But, common axe lore says the grain should run the same as the bit, no more that 10 degrees off. Does it have to be sent back if you are 20 degrees off? Nope. This whole thing is up to you. But if it runs sideways, or perpendicular to the bit, I think I might want an email of explanation on it.

Then I would check balance. Does it feel good to you? Does it swing nice? Does the overall size seem ok with you? Then check the sheath and the overall stitching, etc. Make sure it fits correctly, not too tight, not too loose.

That is a basic run down. There are 100 more checks depending on the guy and specs. Hope this helps.
 
Thank you so much operator. And as far as sharpness.. Is shaving sharp asking too much of an axe? I was always told as I was growing up that a sharp axe (and knife or any other edged tool) is a safe axe. So will holding it up to the same standards as my knives be overkill?

I'm hoping it comes convex, but if not? File, belt sander, stones? I'm gonna keep it away from the bench grinder because I don't wanna ruin the HT. oh and can somebody recommend some good files for axe care/sharpening?

Should I oil it when it comes? Is it necessary to coat the handle again? I read somewhere that guys put the whole head in a bucket of linseed oil and let it soak and then dry out for a few days to make a tighter fit? Any of these things recommended by you fellas?

Is a 2lb Hudson Bay heavy enough to bring some trees down if necessary? Or am I gonna be killing myself? Not taking down monsters to build a bridge but big enough to build a shelter.. Lets say up to a foot in diameter? (Won't ever need something that big but would be nice to know it'll handle it)
 
You have some excellent questions. I hope I can help. Here we go -

Sharp - I am not a big guy on shaving sharp for an axe. Dont get me wrong, the sharper the better, as stated, a sharp axe is a safer axe - no glancing blows, etc. How sharp is ultimately up to you. I dont get too crazy with the hair shaving part because my thought is, after about 1o swings, that is usually gone anyways. So I pay more attention to the profile, as in bit edge, back to the first edge, back to the cheek....if this is correct, you will have a hell of a chopper. If it is too thin, or too thick(v shape, see Fiskars), then you have a splitter. It will really depend on what you are doing, wood size etc. There is no absolute answer, IMO.

It should come convex, as in thicker back to the main cheek, this will enable better splitting and rough use. GB does not have this - they are pretty thin way back - and is usually not fond of with the regs around here - but it is preference really as is most things. For me, out and about, I want a beater more than a looker. Thats just me.

Oil - oil her up. Head, eye, haft, etc. Yours will come in with a light coating of linseed on it, which is good. Caution - too much linseed will make you handle sticky icky, so less is more. Some guys like to dunk theirs in linseed for a couple days and pull out - I myself am not for this but i am not 100% up on the total method. I like many thin coats over time. This is more work, but to me makes for a better end product. Again, one mans way, I have no issue with the big soak. Side note - if you have linseed soaked rags, you need to make sure they are well ventilated - do not roll them up and throw away - there is a combustion hazard - burn them right away, or soak in water, or I hang mine up for good ventilation. Don't skimp in this - they will catch fire.

The axe you have will do what you make it to - it just might not do certain things well, thats all. It isn't meant to take down a 16 inch maple. Up to a foot you can handle if need be, but that is probably asking about it, again IMO. It is meant for lighter work overall. You get into too big of stuff and all you will do is tire yourself, then mistakes happen. Technically, you can fall a huge tree with a hatchet if you do it right, its just a question of whether you want to, and if you have the time.

Hope this helps!!!

Thanks!
 
Sweet man thanks again I appreciate the know-how and patience with somebody who's axe-ignorant. Glad to know I don't need to kill myself with sharpness on it. I'm gonna pick up a can of linseed tomorrow and oil the hell out of it so I can keep it the way it needs to be. Leather polish/waterproofer wont hurt for the sheath i guess. And I gotta get some fresh hockey tape for the handle.. Might sound crazy but I do it to all my beaters at work (as do all Ironworkers that I know). Isn't pretty and it DEFINITELY is gonna be one of those things that guys are gonna be like 'really bro that's stupid' but try it on a handle you don't care about it'll change your life. I swing an 8lb or 10lb sledge (my beater as we call them) at heights that cause most guys have involuntary bowel movements and it keeps it in my hands every time :)

Have you heard of guys waxing the bit and handles? I read that earlier today but not sure how it'll turn out.

Thanks again for the help its much appreciated.. Now I just gotta stay off of USPS's website because I'm like a child waiting for my package to show up already.
 
Have you ever heard of the test of a true man is taking an 8lb sledge, holding the end of the handle in your hand, arm straight out, and then bringing the sledge back slowly to your nose, touching it, then extending it back out again?

I had my buddies grandfather tell me that was the measure of a true man on the rail road. Those must of been the days! Sounds like you know if that is even possible or not....

Disclaimer - please do not try this at home or say Operator on BF said this was the cool thing to do!!!!

PS I tried it once and almost broke my face. Good times. Damn Highlife anyway......

Curious about the hockey tape though - why?
 
I just got my Velvicut HB a couple days ago and absolutely LOVE it so far. I have mostly been limbing with it in some dense woods below the house I am staying in. I take it on my twice daily walks with my dogs down there and it is easy to carry and very effective. Like I said... mostly limbing and some chopping so far and I am very happy with the investment.
 
Dunner said:
I just got my Velvicut HB a couple days ago and absolutely LOVE it so far. I have mostly been limbing with it in some dense woods below the house I am staying in. I take it on my twice daily walks with my dogs down there and it is easy to carry and very effective. Like I said... mostly limbing and some chopping so far and I am very happy with the investment.
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Glad to hear that. Sounds like I have a good piece of kit showing up :)
 
Op.. They made me do it and I had the same results, had to move my face to not eat it. It ain't easy lol. It's possible but you have to have wrists like a monster. After a solid year of swinging em constantly, 3 failed attempts, and catching me on a good morning, I did it. But I didn't touch it to my nose I kissed it like an arrogant bastard. They never screwed with me again on that job site. Then again, as the apprentice/bitch, they force me to carry kegs of bolts (7 gallon buckets with a lid) weighing 200-238lbs depending on bolt size so an 8lb beater shouldn't have defeated me and I was determined and maybe a little intoxicated which is common for Ironworkers on the job site. But about the beater/face thing I have to admit it depends a lot on the length of the handle. I keep mine pretty short at 25" plus whatever length is inside the head so maybe 27 1/2" total. I think they come at 32"-34" but I hate em that long so maybe I'm a cheater, which is why the 24" total of the Velvicut seemed good for me

As for the hockey tape.. I don't know about axes but when it's really cold, or wet, or both.. Beaters tend to fly and people get hurt. The hockey tape keeps it in your hands better than gloves. And if you use gloves and hockey tape in conjunction, you literally have to let it go for you to lose grip. It gives it a pretty badass look too IMO. When it's hot out it gets a little tacky and we basically swing and don't even need to hold it. Ill post a pic of my beaters tomorrow. The 10 pounder is uhh.. 'Misplaced' on the mile-long turnpike bridge I'm on at the moment but I have a 4lb and 8lb I can post pics of if the forum will let me
 
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Here's a great video with Ray Mears. It's been shown here before, but he does a great demonstration of how to safely use smaller axes, and care for them....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tUUctg6dfk


I love my Hudson Bay Velvicut, mine came with a perfectly shaped head, bit is straight as an arrow, excellent haft with the best grain alignment I've seen, it's hung just about perfectly. It could have come a little bit sharper, one edge is more convex than the other, but I'll fix that, no problem. I have only used mine on some Black Locust, and that's not a fair test for any axe. A little bit sharper, and she'll be ready for camping.

I just now, tonight, got my Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe. It's nice as well, but the grain alignment isn't as optimal as the Velvicut. The head is hung impeccably well, a very tight fit. The handle is nice, fatter than the Velvicut, and more "finished as far as the sanding. One negative is the sharpening, it's very sharp, but one side has way more metal taken away. At first I though the bit was out of wack, but under closer inspection I can see it's in the grind of the edge. Oh, well, I'll just have to sharpen one side for a while.
 
ManOfSteel89 said:
Is a 2lb Hudson Bay heavy enough to bring some trees down if necessary? Or am I gonna be killing myself?
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Yes it can take down some trees but you need to be careful about overworking a Hudson Bay. It's not meant to suffer the impacts of a full sized axe.

As for sharpness, I'm a proponent of the sharper the better. And in my experience an axe can still be shaving sharp (though maybe not hair-popping) after a sizable amount of work. Furthermore, spending some time polishing the edge back a 1/2" or so increases the performance of the axe. It cuts deeper and simple won't stick.

In another recent thread I posted a picture of several of my axes lying atop a timber I was hewing. The reason they were lying on top is because not one of them would stick even after multiple tries with firm blows. IMO this is the way it should be. Axe handles come loose not from chopping but from being pried loose when stuck. A polished and properly convexed bit simply won't stick. If you need an axe or wedge to stick then shape the edge concavely. I do that with my underbucking axe and it sticks tough and very easily.
 
ManOfSteel89 said:
As for the hockey tape.. I don't know about axes but when it's really cold, or wet, or both.. Beaters tend to fly and people get hurt. The hockey tape keeps it in your hands better than gloves. And if you use gloves and hockey tape in conjunction, you literally have to let it go for you to lose grip.
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I also use friction tape on some of my handles. It can make up for an insufficient swell. It can keep the tool in your hand on a rainy day. It's not for tool handles that need to move in your hand some - that will cause blisters. I used it on more axes before I discovered the grippiness of a tung oil finish.
 
Will tung oil and linseed oil jive together? And my hands have been abused over my short working career and haven't had a blister in a while since they callus'd over and I love the grit of hockey tape :p
 
I've used the two in layers, just apply thin coats and let each one dry for a day or more. I like the color that Tung oil gives hickory, at least my results were good. It adds an aged look.
 
Nothing wrong with a short answer as long as it answers the question Cedar! Lol. And foxx do you have any pics of that?
 
I bought one of these and like it. The grain on the handle is perfect at 12 o'clock. I would prefer a thinner handle on it but that's just my opinion. The sheath is heavy duty. The best part is I called Council tool on a different matter and a real person answered the phone. She asked my name and said her name was Margo Council. We had a nice conversation and as you can imagine she was very knowledgible about axes and proud of the Velvicut. She said they reject handles with grain outside of 10 to 2 o'clock. I like some of my old axes better but as far as current axes, these are great and Council Tool seems like a US company worthy of support.
 
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