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Venev 400 OCB diamond stone
- Thread starter Strauss95
- Start date
K80Shooter
Basic Member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2018
- Messages
- 336
Not much info on the 400 OCB stone. I'm wondering if there is a substantial improvement compared to the old resin 400. I know the OCB version was a big upgrade on the 800/1200, but my understanding was because the resin was much finer they worked better, but is it that important on the F400 stone?
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,105
You get a better scratch pattern with the OCB resin then the older resin,from what I have been told by Konstantin the older resin tend's tear the metal off the edge or if that's not whats happening it's the best way to describe it.
I have the original F2000 stone and the new OCB F800 and 1200 leave a better scratch pattern the original F2000 that is a finer grit and is supposed to be comparable to a 8K Japanese water stone in grit.
The original resin stones leave the edge looking like an aggressive stone finished them if you just used the original resin stones,the OCB leave a more refined look that is also easier to get out with water stones,also you can just strop after the OCB stones if your trying to do a mirror polish.
If you want the Metallic CBN stone I would get only the F50 for edge repair work and resetting bevels where a good bit of metal has to come off then get the F120 and F400 then use the Venev OCB stones after that.
I have the original F2000 stone and the new OCB F800 and 1200 leave a better scratch pattern the original F2000 that is a finer grit and is supposed to be comparable to a 8K Japanese water stone in grit.
The original resin stones leave the edge looking like an aggressive stone finished them if you just used the original resin stones,the OCB leave a more refined look that is also easier to get out with water stones,also you can just strop after the OCB stones if your trying to do a mirror polish.
If you want the Metallic CBN stone I would get only the F50 for edge repair work and resetting bevels where a good bit of metal has to come off then get the F120 and F400 then use the Venev OCB stones after that.
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2016
- Messages
- 5,666
Hello Venev users.
I just received two new Venev OCB 1" x 6" stones, a 240/400 100% and 800/1200 100%. My current skill set - I've used a wicked edge for about 2 years, and actually just sold it. I have migrated to freehand sharpening. I use several triangle rods and strops, and I can achieve a hair shaving, and even with a little work hair whittling edge. This is on s35vn, 3V, M4 (and certainly 1095) steels. I also have a 10 and 30X loupe, but mostly go by feel.
For me the freehand breakthrough was finally learning how to raise a burr and cleanly remove it. Once I figured that out from the wicked edge, I was able to transfer that to freehand sharpening - I finally knew what I was looking for.
So last night I put a couple knives on the Venev stones. This is a first for me using water. I had a much harder time raising a burr. I really could not feel it at each progression. With a loupe the scratch pattern went all the way to the edge. At 400 grit I could feel the burr, but it was really faint. I was using a Sharpie at every step (several times at the 400 grit stone).
Apart from being really shiny at 1200 grit, the knife is not as sharp. I know I'm not at the apex.
So, using water on fine diamond stones - does that make finding the burr a much different proposition? Was I just not really all the way at the apex?
I don't have any idea of the finer points of a using water on a bench stone, and what people refer to as "feedback". I'm not at that level yet.
Mostly looking for comments about the possible difference in burr formation on these Venev stones. Also, wet versus my previous experience always on dry stones. Thanks!
I just received two new Venev OCB 1" x 6" stones, a 240/400 100% and 800/1200 100%. My current skill set - I've used a wicked edge for about 2 years, and actually just sold it. I have migrated to freehand sharpening. I use several triangle rods and strops, and I can achieve a hair shaving, and even with a little work hair whittling edge. This is on s35vn, 3V, M4 (and certainly 1095) steels. I also have a 10 and 30X loupe, but mostly go by feel.
For me the freehand breakthrough was finally learning how to raise a burr and cleanly remove it. Once I figured that out from the wicked edge, I was able to transfer that to freehand sharpening - I finally knew what I was looking for.
So last night I put a couple knives on the Venev stones. This is a first for me using water. I had a much harder time raising a burr. I really could not feel it at each progression. With a loupe the scratch pattern went all the way to the edge. At 400 grit I could feel the burr, but it was really faint. I was using a Sharpie at every step (several times at the 400 grit stone).
Apart from being really shiny at 1200 grit, the knife is not as sharp. I know I'm not at the apex.
So, using water on fine diamond stones - does that make finding the burr a much different proposition? Was I just not really all the way at the apex?
I don't have any idea of the finer points of a using water on a bench stone, and what people refer to as "feedback". I'm not at that level yet.
Mostly looking for comments about the possible difference in burr formation on these Venev stones. Also, wet versus my previous experience always on dry stones. Thanks!
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2016
- Messages
- 5,666
I figured out what happened - when I purchased the new Venev stones, I also purchased a Hapstone T1 guide, and started setting the bevel with the rods WAAAYY to high. I essentially blunted the edge a lot more than I thought. Today with the 30X loupe I could see the heavy scratch pattern at the very edge, polished right behind that. The actual edge probably had a 25+DPS rough, convex edge, effectively.
So this morning I started over at 240 grit, 100% freehand until I knew I had a burr along the complete edge (just feeling by fingertips). I guess my natural freehand angle is somewhere around 20dps, maybe a touch thinner. I worked it side by side to a full burr (then removing it), then again at 400 and 800 grit. At this point it was shaving arm hair easily (a vast improvement from yesterday). I then spent just a little time on the 1200 grit stone, and at that grit I cannot really feel a burr, but things looked good under the loupe. At that point I switched to a strop, black then green compound on a basic leather (rough out) strop.
This edge is now whittling hair. This is as good as I usually can achieve on a good day. To do this from scratch, freehand, on a brand new/unfamiliar set of stones is amazing (for me)!
So if you consider I had to essentially reprofile this knife because of the damage I did yesterday, I had about 30 minutes into this sharpening session from scratch. Not bad at all.
I'm now a big fan of the Venev stones!
So this morning I started over at 240 grit, 100% freehand until I knew I had a burr along the complete edge (just feeling by fingertips). I guess my natural freehand angle is somewhere around 20dps, maybe a touch thinner. I worked it side by side to a full burr (then removing it), then again at 400 and 800 grit. At this point it was shaving arm hair easily (a vast improvement from yesterday). I then spent just a little time on the 1200 grit stone, and at that grit I cannot really feel a burr, but things looked good under the loupe. At that point I switched to a strop, black then green compound on a basic leather (rough out) strop.
This edge is now whittling hair. This is as good as I usually can achieve on a good day. To do this from scratch, freehand, on a brand new/unfamiliar set of stones is amazing (for me)!
So if you consider I had to essentially reprofile this knife because of the damage I did yesterday, I had about 30 minutes into this sharpening session from scratch. Not bad at all.
I'm now a big fan of the Venev stones!