Veterinary Grade Mineral Oil

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Jul 21, 2001
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I keep reading about folks using "veterinary grade mineral oil" for quenching blades like it is something special. I once tried to track it down hoping for some information as to specific quality specifications that could relate to a quenching medium for knives and got absolutely nowhere.

I figured I would ask does someone actually know what exactly "Veterinary Grade Mineral Oil" is and what are the tolerances allowed?
 
Check out this post Mr Fowler :)
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=453904

Here is the MSDS

now to address the use of it for quenching. I have used it for 5160 with Outstanding results. and I have mixed it 50/50 with Kerosene (2 gallon total) a 4.4oz bottle of Jet dry (wetter) and 2-3oz of Blue Dawn Dish soap. (surfactant) and had Excellent results with W1/1095. I have not had a test piece analyzed for martensite conversion but overall testing has so far been Great!

Jason
 
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Ed
Here in Kentucky we use it as a laxative for horses. Nothing really special about it, just mineral oil. I suppose the vet grade comes from the fact that it is free of contamanation(sp?).
 
Vet grade to me means that it is cheaper than the "usp" grade sold for people use.
actually the very same stuff, just lacking the certification

Since it is sold as horse laxative I thought a shit kicking rancher like you would be tripping over it.
Once you find it in a TSC or feed mill, ask them for MSDS or certifications.
 
"Shit kicking rancher"... Ha Ha!!! ;) :D

I thought so too Ed!!! I grew up bucking hay bales and shoveling horse crap so it was a big surprise back when Ed Caffrey recommended it to me when I got into forging... to use horse laxative to harden steel! ;) :D

It did work quite well for me, for a long time.

I feel I am getting better results with commercial quenchants now, but I did make many serviceable blades with vet grade mineral oil.
 
I have used my Texaco Type A which is a special grade of mineral oil as a laxative for horses and to prevent colic from a grain overload, also as a lubricant to pull calves and a foal once. It does work! Also a great hand lotion taken straight from the quench tank.

I asked my vet if he knew what grade it was, he did not, I callled the outfit that sold it, they had no idea either. There was an outfit in town that sold texaco type A in bulk to vets and ranchers, then they could not get it any more and switched to another mineral oil.
 
Got a gallon at the feed store for $20. I priced mineral oil at the drug store and it was $4.99 for 12oz. So vet grade runs on par or slightly less than parks, at least in my area. i might be able to get a break if I buy in larger quantities but I don't use it as a quenchant so not a big deal.
 
Hey Ed,

As usual you got me to thinking, so I started looking around. Fascinating stuff. Seems all mineral oils are not created equal, even the food grade stuff comes in a variety of forms (lots to do with viscosity). Here are a few links I found about the stuff that might be helpful?

All the best, Phil

Oh, oh, my computer is bogging down. Hope I can upload this before it crashes.
 
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I'm still using Mineral Oil for 5160 and 52100. I also have a tank of Parks 50, but found that with certain steels...namely the two I mentioned above, there are some problems using the Parks. The first time I ever used the Parks, I was test quenching a 52100 blade.....not knowing any better at the time, I pre-heated the Parks just as I had always done with the mineral oil....little tiny "spider web" cracks all over the quenched section of the blade! I've since found that Parks can be used, but the safest way it to use it at room temp.
I now have two tanks....one with Mineral oil, and another with Parks. For me I think a lot of it is the comfort level I have in using the Mineral Oil....I've used it for many years, getting through both my JS and MS test with it, and know what I can and cannot do with it.
The reason that I have always used the term "Vet Grade Mineral Oil", is because that's exactly what it says on the label of the jugs I purchase at the local farm/ranch stores. Never really considered digging into it any deeper, but the info that Phil posted is interesting stuff to know. (Thanks Phil).
 
I sure hope you boys don't use the stuff as human DrainO. It has some nasty side effects.
 
I prefer Type A for 5160 and 52100. Everything else goes into the vet grade oil. The one thing I don't like about the vet grade oil is the flame up I get from it.
 
I just got back from a local farm supply, and they wanted 6.49 per quart! And, they said they couldn't get it by the gallon. I just walked out of the store. For that price, you'd mine as well get the "food grade" mineral oil at the Rite-Aid. :grumpy:
 
I just got back from a local farm supply, and they wanted 6.49 per quart! And, they said they couldn't get it by the gallon. I just walked out of the store. For that price, you'd mine as well get the "food grade" mineral oil at the Rite-Aid. :grumpy:

I seem to recall I was a bit shocked the last time I bought a gallon of it at the feed store. It was right around 19 bucks for the gallon I purchased. 6 bucks more that the previous purchase maybe 3 years earlier.
 
I just got back from a local farm supply, and they wanted 6.49 per quart! And, they said they couldn't get it by the gallon. I just walked out of the store. For that price, you'd mine as well get the "food grade" mineral oil at the Rite-Aid. :grumpy:

I seem to recall I was a bit shocked the last time I bought a gallon of it at the feed store. It was right around 19 bucks for the gallon I purchased. 6 bucks more that the previous purchase maybe 3 years earlier.

It is likely the purchase costs of petroleum based products and products manufactured or transported via petroleum based energy will ever climb.
 
I prefer Type A for 5160 and 52100. Everything else goes into the vet grade oil. The one thing I don't like about the vet grade oil is the flame up I get from it.

Hey Ray Way do you use the mineral oil when you have type A? I use the type A for everything but 1095, w 1-2 and the home made steel that I have been doing. for these I use water or p50. Just curious.
 
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