VFD- external control pot build

R

Randydb

Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Messages
1,107
Hi,
I want to build a remote box for my VFD. I have a saftronics S10 3hp VFD.

https://www.vfds.com/manuals/saftronics-s10-manual.pdf

I would like a fwd/rev switch and potentiometer to control start/stop and speed I think, but I don't know. A couple people on other posts say that it is important to get the right potentiometer. Any advice on the gauge of wire, parts and box to start with would be very helpful.

I see one here in this thread https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/vfd-setup-for-controlling-multiple-machines.1457370/page-2
But I don't know any of the requirements for the potentiometer, box etc.

Or is there some box I can just buy off the shelf that I just wire in and go?
Thanks,
Randy
 
Looks like they just want a 10k potentiometer hooked to 8-10 terminals. Make sure and get a speed rated and not audio as the audio use a different non linear progression ((50% does not equal half power) and hook it up with shielded control cable.

I have my old mill set up that way with a potentiometer, fwd/rvs and emergency stop mounted to a boxon the head.
 
Most VFD makers sell the remote kit for very little. You just put it in a box and hook it up.

If buying the parts, use a 10K linear taper pot as WC53 mentioned. It should connect to 8-9-10. The fwd-off-rev switch is a SPDT center off type connected to 3-4-5.
 
I'm going to buy the parts and make one....I can't spot the remote kit for this vfd on line. Thank you for the info on what to buy.
 
No problem.
Ebay will be a good place to get all the parts.
I would use shielded 22 gauge twelve conductor wires to connect the remote parts. Ground both ends to the cabinets/boxes. Just bundle the unused wires or use then for indicator LEDs on the remote. If you have a friend or business nearby that installs computers, cable, or phones, they will likely give you the small lenght you need, instead of you buying a whole roll. Ebay often sells it in 25 foot lengths.

Here is a good choice for the speed pot:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Variable-S...45:m:mtHkCHjTorwM54Jz04-SSHg&var=461109889658
 
Don't forget you'll have to adjust the appropriate factory settings to run external controls (via terminals, as the manual states).

Parameter F10 should go from 0 to 1
Parameter F11 should go from 0 to 1

If you haven't already, you can play around with the other parameters if you want to increase your max frequency, how quickly your machine starts and stops, torque compensations, etc....
 
knife to a gunfight said:
Don't forget you'll have to adjust the appropriate factory settings to run external controls (via terminals, as the manual states).

Parameter F10 should go from 0 to 1
Parameter F11 should go from 0 to 1

If you haven't already, you can play around with the other parameters if you want to increase your max frequency, how quickly your machine starts and stops, torque compensations, etc....
Click to expand...
Yes, I hadn't looked that up, but I had guessed that I was going to have to change a couple settings to activate the external controls. I have also increased my max frequency and the startup and stopping speed already.
 
Well, I finally got around to picking up the parts. Have the 22 guage 12 conductor wire....got it from IT at our school district. They cut me a section off the side of our warehouse actually. Guess it hadn't been used in a long time. Kinda funny.

Questions so I don't screw up.

Potentiometer - 8-9-10 . 9 goes to centre terminal on my potentiometer?

FWD-OFF-REV switch. 3-4-5. 5 goes to center terminal on the switch right?


Stacey mentions "Ground both ends to the cabinets/boxes. Just bundle the unused wires or use then for indicator LEDs on the remote." The box I have for the remote is heavy plastic. Don't need to ground?

I also see the part about turning on external controls.

I am off to grab some crimp connectors for the job.
IMG_1870 (1).jpg IMG_1869 (1).jpg
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Most VFD makers sell the remote kit for very little. You just put it in a box and hook it up.

If buying the parts, use a 10K linear taper pot as WC53 mentioned. It should connect to 8-9-10. The fwd-off-rev switch is a SPDT center off type connected to 3-4-5.
Click to expand...
Hi,
I am just getting to wiring the taper pot up now. I'm not quite sure which wires to put where.
- Pot has 3 terminals Z1, arrow icon pointing up, and Z2
-manual is here on page 17 https://www.vfds.com/manuals/saftronics-s10-manual.pdf
-Basically it shows terminals 8-9-10 being 10v - v1 - 0v

My guess is z1 goes to 0v
arrow up icon goes to v1
z2 goes to 10v

Can someone please confirm this?
 
Whooooohooooooo!!!!!!!!! It is working! So great!!! Thanks everyone.....Bladeforums is so great!!!
 
Great!

Pictures will help inspire others to do this.

Info for those reading this thread:
Using a remote box for ON-OFF-REVERSE and for speed control allows you to put a cheap VFD in a box on the wall away from the grinder, or even in another room. This will let you run the unit from a small box at the grinder (or other tool).

Ideas:
A 3/4HP to 1HP 3 Phase motor and cheap VFD on your drill press or mini-mill.
Same setup on your bandsaw.
Same on a disc grinder.
A 1/3HP to 1/2HP 3 phase motor and VFD running a super basic belt grinder and flat platen for a dedicated sharpening machine. Maybe add a water drip or spray. A 2" or 3" diameter drive wheel will also keep the max speed down for sharpening.
 
Okay, here are my pictures. I built my grinder using Dan Comeau's plans from here. http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/2-x-72-belt-grinder.html It works super well, but doesn't track quite as well running backwards as I would like it to. Been playing around with tracking and things have improved, but still isn't perfect. Part of the problem is the tension post has some play in it. I may take that out and make an arm with a piston tension system.

I bought my motor off craigslist for under $100 and the vfd second hand from ebay for around $95...can't remember exactly. I have my vfd plugged into the wall and a plug between the vfd and motor too. This is because I want to be able to put a 3 ph motor on my bandsaw, disc sander and lathe and be able to control them all with the same vfd....just plug each one into it.

I just got a cheap metal electrical box to house my vfd in and for the moment I have duct taped furnace filter over the holes for the moment. I will grab some aluminum strips from my buddy and screw them to the box and "pinch" the furnace filter in place with them.

Wire for the external pot is just old telecom wire that was being pulled from one of the buildings in our school district. I got one of the techs to save me a chunk. External box is from hardware store, switch and pot from ebay.

I have to say, I didn't have any experience with electric motors or welding before I started this. I had lots of experience fixing my cars and dirt bikes, lots of backwoods experience, and a lot of woodworking experience. But reading a million threads, asking questions, people on this forum and people I know that have talked me through welding up the grinder frame, setting up my vfd, making and adding an external control pot and making knives.

It's funny, but I could afford to buy it all new...but somewhere in there making it all has been SO MUCH FUN. Real sense of accomplishment that I made these. My goal is to make one of these grinders next. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...der-plans-2020-version.1705344/#post-19602565

But in the end...if I can do this you can too!

IMG_2752.jpg IMG_2749.jpg IMG_2750.jpg IMG_2751.jpg
 
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