vfd question

timos-

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
2,164
I had got a northridge pro package last year .. it came wired for 110 since all i had up until that point was to run it off an extension cord.
well I finally got 240 power run to my shed and am trying to wire up the vfd and motor correctly. The VFD manual clearly shows a L1,L2,L3 for the ac line but the actual VFD only has a L1 and L2 ?? Whatsup with that?
 
The models with 3 phase input have L1, L2, and L3 while the models that only take single phase input only have L1 and L2.

EDIT: This response is assuming you have a KBAC VFD as you mentioned the Northridge package. The KBAC 24D, 27D, and 29 (1p) are single phase input only so they only have L1 and L2 inputs. The KBAC 29 (3p), 45, 48, etc. have 3 phase input and thus have L1, L2, and L3 inputs.
 
Last edited:
Is the motor a 3phase motor? You want your vfd to be a single phase input. Maybe post your vfd model and motor specs?
 
I had got a northridge pro package last year .. it came wired for 110 since all i had up until that point was to run it off an extension cord.
well I finally got 240 power run to my shed and am trying to wire up the vfd and motor correctly.

The VFD manual clearly shows a L1,L2,L3 for the ac line but the actual VFD only has a L1 and L2 ?? Whatsup with that?

what vfd, what manual, show us what you are doing.

KBAC27D
Notor on the left, power input on the right.

20191123_113602-scaled-e1582402292376.jpg

Output to motor is U, W, V


220 input
L1 is hot
L2 is hot
Ground to the green case screws on the bottom

If you're reading a manual for a vfd with three phase inputs that can be L1, L2, L3
 
I am reading the manual that came with the vfd. For some reason it shows the L1,L2,L3.

So the motor is 3 phase:
GHgdxAF.jpg


my VFD:
Iwv8rzI.jpg


Note i switched the jumper to 230
two hots and a ground.

Heres my plug:
boVbMxq.jpg


Now all I have to do is change the connections in the box on the motor itself, I think.

thanks for the inputs
 
Your plug has a neutral line, this is only needed for an appliance the uses 120 and 240v. Your VFD only uses hot, hot and ground.
 
I don't think there is anything to be changed in the motor.

As I understand things, the VFD can step up the input from 110 to 220V, if 110V input is selected, in its input stage to get the correct DC bus Voltage. From the DC bus onwards, everything stays the same.

That said, I'm not familiar with the KBAC, or US 110V power circuits, so I'd advise you to check with KB tech support.
 
Since the plug is a 4 wire normally wired with H (black), H (red or some other color), N (white), and ground (green) and I see only 3 wires (black, white, & green) coming from cord into VFD, be SURE the white is wired to a H in the plug and NOT the neutral in the plug. You mention the setup was originally wired for 120 volt, the white wire in cord could well be the neutral. If so, you'll need to move it to the other Hot terminal in the plug.

Tim always has good advice, and checking with tech support is always a good idea.
 
I am reading the manual that came with the vfd. For some reason it shows the L1,L2,L3.

So the motor is 3 phase:
GHgdxAF.jpg


my VFD:

Note i switched the jumper to 230
two hots and a ground.

Heres my plug:
boVbMxq.jpg


Now all I have to do is change the connections in the box on the motor itself, I think.

thanks for the inputs

Follow the Low Voltage diagram on the motor
You shouldn't have to change it
 
You do not use the neutral two hots to L1 & L2 and a ground for 240v your vfd is correct for 240v you do not need to change any wires on the motor, if you have any questions please call 440-225-4200

Thank you George
 
If you're keeping the 3 wire cord (black, white, green), I would wrap some black (or red) tape around both ends of the white insulation, just as a visual reminder that it's now a hot and not a neutral. That, or a sharpie might work. The world isn't going to end if you don't, but it's just a good habit to get into.
 
Thank you everyone for clarifying. I was getting confused with the way they print the manuals, though the online version is much more clear.
George thanks for your response as well. I would call normally but im terrible with auditory learning and i need everything written down, lol.

The grinder is damn near unstoppable now. I think my main problem before was voltage drop and being plugged into a 15 amp power strip.
I had a extension cord powering my whole shed , its almost 100' from the house. I operated this way for 7 years, lol.
thanks again
 
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