VG-10 problems

T. Erdelyi

T. Erdelyi

Joined
Feb 3, 2001
Messages
32,359
Anyone else have problems sharpening VG-10, I keep getting microsopic chips on the blade edge when I sharpen, I've tried oil stones, fine diamond hones, ceramics, stropping, and I wind up with a sharp blade, but I can feel it snag when I slice newspaper. The blade is a chisel grind where the primary bevel tapers to the edge there is no secondary bevel, it's kind of like a wood plane the way the angle hits the edge. It is a very acute angle, which I believe contributes to the problem, also because the the blade is a VG-10/Carbon Fiber laminate it tends to load the stones up quickly. Im going to try a very fine grain water stone as soon as it arrives. I was really hoping to get some additional advice before the stones come :confused: .
 
I have yet to sharpen any VG-10, but I have noticed another problem. This steel seems to get dirty (smudgy) very easily, and it is not easy to clean. It seems b/w these two problems, this wonder steel might not be all it's cracked up to be.
 
Waterstones are designed to work on very hard steels that can be easily chipped so that is the way to go. For maximum ability you want to use the stones very wet so they don't load up. However if you have Carbon Fibre making contact with the stone, I would assume it will gum it up anyway. I would suggest cleaning the stones frequently if this is the case. Go very lightly when honing, you don't have to press very hard to induce sharpening. You can also try applying a very slight more obtuse secondary bevel, because as you note, the fine angle will make chipping happen far easier.

-Cliff
 
Thanks Cliff, as soon as the water stones arrive I'll try that, and fortunately I learned a long time ago that harder is not better, I let the stones work for me, basically if your pushin' that hard to remove metal your probably usin' the wrong stone. BTW thanks for your input on the 52100 vs New Alloys post, My comment was not meant to insinuate that 52100 was all figured out, what I should have said was that it has the most documented information as far as repeatable results available.

Thanks Again
 
Haven't noticed any problem with my F1 in VG-10. I have noticed that VG-10 has more 'bite' than any other stainless alloys I've used, and holds a very good edge. I use a DMT ultra fine diamond hone to maintain the convex edge on the F1. VG-10 doesn't seem to take the same kind of polish or finish that some stainless alloys do (although my F1 was faultlessly ground), though, but that doesn't affect its utility.
 
Have had no problems sharpening any Spyderco VG-10 on a Sharpmaker.

I don't really care if it looks "smudgy." It's a knife.
 
I have most of the Falkniven blades in VG-10 and I've never had a problem sharpening any of them. I use a ceramic rod most of the time, but I occasionally touch them up with a few light strokes on a fine diamond hone.
 
I haven't had any problems sharpening my VG-10 SERE 2000. It will take a great edge, and hold it well too, using the ceramics and the Sharpmaker.

Possibly your problems are from the CF/VG-10 laminate?


Erik
 
I have no doubt that those knives hold their edge, but this is a severe tanto with a very acute single bevel, therein lies my problem, the blade tapers to an infinite point which makes it wickedly sharp. Now I have to hone a scalpel like edge without damaging the fine edge.
 
Use the Sharpmaker... the 204 will do anything...

I currently have my Calypso jr lt at 20degrees(about) and this is week 3 with no problems. No chipping, no rolling...

just keep working with the medium grit ceramics from spyderco and should work.
 
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and I need two to explain myself. You guys aren't seeing the bigger picture here, a Sharpmaker is a great system but it doesn't sharpen everything. With a single contiuous bevel, the Sharpmaker doesn't have enough surface area to do the job, like Cliff S. said Water stones and light pressure.
I appreciate the comments guys but I figured that the pics would turn this back to a help thread rather than one promoting the merits of VG-10.
I understand it's a good steel, but I'm still lookin for remedies, so keep em' commin'.





edges.jpg
 
Have you tried the newer diamond stones that are solid surface instead of cutouts? I just got a pair of DMT stones, 6" long, in fine and extra fine. You might be able to get a nice edge with something like that using very light pressure.
 
Those chips are very large, much bigger than I assumed. I would try contacting the maker, that seems like a steel problem to me. Has the knife seen anything that would cause extensive corrosion, or seen a lot of heavy edge impacts or prying type work?

-Cliff
 
Is that the Beretta Avenger or whatever? I hold VG10 as one of the top steels. I would say the problem is with the manufacture or the
heat treat, not the steel. JMO.
 
Yes Magician That is the Warren Thomas/Beretta Avenger, (You should play What's That Knife? Maybe I'll take some close up photos of some other knives and everyone can play.)

And no Cliff that has always been a backup that never saw anything harder than an envelope the picture is exaggerated, I took it through a magnifier, but the edge is micro serrated like that, I really believe it's because of the fine diamond hone, I'm hoping that when I get my Japenese Water Stones they won't be so aggresive, and will polish the edge down like a wood plane, I will keep you all posted.
 
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