VG10 vs O/1 steel for bushcraft knife...

Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
791
Hi everyone, I realize that these are very different steels but was just wondering if there is anyone out there who has had the chance to compare these two alloys personally. I absolutely love the performance of VG10 but am planning to buy an O1 bushcraft knife and would like to hear some pros and cons. I know that one benefit of O/1 is that in a survival situation it can be used with a piece of flint to throw a spark but that's not really enough to convert me! I've heard lots of good things but am still not 100% convinced about going for it. I would appreciate some input.
Cheers,
Gabriel.
 
Last edited:
I have used both vg10 and 01 and i have to say 01 is better. vg10 takes a great edge but i feel that it's too soft to do the task of a bushcraft knife. I have an 01 fixed blade that i can beat on all day and still shaves after. 01 takes a crazy edge just like vg10, but it's a bit more durable.
 
Are you screwing with me!? VG10 too soft!!! are you sure you didn't get them backwards :D I heard that O1 wasn't as tough or durable as VG10. What grind do you have on your O1 and VG10 knives?
I really appreciate the help,
Gabriel.
 
O1 is a very tough tool steel and will be tougher than most stainless including VG10 but that holds true for most caron vs stainless steels. Personally I feel like VG10 is the stainless equivalent of 1095. O1 is a little harder to sharpen but gets much sharper and is easier to polish than VG10.

If you get a O1 blade aim for a Rc of about 60 and if the blade is not coated force a patina or you will understand the meaning of "rust when you look at it"
 
I thought that most stainless were generally harder than carbon steels because of the larger carbides but it seems I had it backwards! silly me:o
What is a patina?
I have heard about O1 rusting very easily but I figure if I oil it after a days use it will be ok and even if it does stain a little it shouldn't effect the functionality of the knife.
-Gabe
 
stainless has more chromium. And, i have no problem with rust ive had mine since christmas. What i do is put a coat of car wax over the entire knife, wood handle and all. Keeps it water tight & rust proof.
 
Steels with large amounts of carbides have more wear resistance. In truth most high end stainless steels are just catching up to good carbon/carbon alloy steels but the stainless steels still lack the strength.

Patina is a staining of the steel and can be done with anything acidic. its kinda like gun blue but actually protects.
 
Alright, Thanks a lot for spreading the wisdom :)

I feel that it's kind of a shame to get a brand new knife and make it look so damn fugly! maybe my taste will change after a few high carbon steel knives but most of the patina's looked rubbish to me except one or two nice blue ones. I'd still prefer a good ol' mirror polish though...
Gabriel.
 
Don't worry you will learn with time ;)
 
In my experience carbon blades don't rust as fast as most people think.
As long as you don't neglect them you should be fine.
If you plan to store them for a while, wipe them down with some kinda oil.
 
in the late 70s & thru the eary 90s 06 carbon was offered by lots of tex. makers. with carbon at 1.5 it was a steller performer at 60rr. all the ones i used would do 3 deer & still shave hair. never hear of it anymore. my hunter has done dozens of deer no rust just a patina.i have a perferance for carbon in straight knives since they have stood the test of time. m4 considered a carbon steel [my understanding] is about the only alloy being used in the chopping & cutting contests.
 
I heard so much good stuff about carbon steel that I can't possibly not go with the O/1 anymore!
I'd always just figured "Hey, if the majority of the market is producing all of this fancy stainless steel surely it's got to be tougher and more resilient to wear(perform better)." Turns out I was wrong :(
Thanks for the input guys.
Gabriel.
 
One man who really know how to work O-1 steel is Bryan Breeden, or Sicily02 on this forum.
He`s a great guy to work with.
I have some of his knives and I tell you they come wicked sharp and can stand more of a beating than any of my other knives..
Check him out, you won`t regret it...
Good luck in your search for a new blade..
 
Dennis, O-6 is a free machining grade of tool steel and has the inherent brittleness of those steels .
O-1 is not a 'simple' steel and requires very careful HT to bring out it's best performance.For those wanting non-stainless think about A-2 or for an even better performer CPM3V.
 
A Bark River in A2 is a safe bet for that type of steel and not very expensive. I am also liking JK Knives in 01, they are a great value in a true custom. Good luck.
 
It was my understanding that steel strength is a function of carbon content and how hard it is. VG10 should be plenty strong and takes a good edge and holds it. A good high carbon steel like 01 should be tougher and more resistant to breakage than any stainless.
Both are good steels, but it all depends on what you want the knife to do.
 
A Bark River in A2 is a safe bet for that type of steel and not very expensive. I am also liking JK Knives in 01, they are a great value in a true custom. Good luck.

I also recommended JK knives, you can't go wrong with them. He's a great guy to talk to and will bend over backwards to get your knife just the way you want it.
 
One other thing about carbon steel and rust, the finer the finish the less chance of it rusting.
Scott
 
One other thing about carbon steel and rust, the finer the finish the less chance of it rusting.
Scott

Thanks everyone for the input, I really appreciate it.
I have been looking into forcing a patina but I would much prefer a mirror polish.
Do you think if I had a really nice polish put on and oiled it daily when in use it would stay rust and relatively stain free? If it does get a little stained I could always take it off with some 3k grit paper or something.
 
Back
Top