VIDEO: CS Black Rhino Hard Use Test

Ankerson

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Nov 2, 2002
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Is that the model that had/has the spring issue? I have one of those that I bought on close out. I've barely taken it out to look at it. Just couldn't turn it down for the give away price when they listed it in that flyer I got in the mail.

What is the story on the backspring on these? Is it all models affected or did just some get out with a spring that can move forward or what is the deal? Do you know Jim?

Oh, good job by the way. Apparently the tip wasn't affected by the reprofile to the edge. That looked like some serious big chunks flying out of that log in a couple stabs!

STR
 
STR,

Yeah it's the one that the spring would creep forward. Haven't heard of any issues with the other models though.

Here you can see the problem.



Here is how I fixed mine, Epoxed it into place, it not ever moving again. :thumbup:





Is that the model that had/has the spring issue? I have one of those that I bought on close out. I've barely taken it out to look at it. Just couldn't turn it down for the give away price when they listed it in that flyer I got in the mail.

What is the story on the backspring on these? Is it all models affected or did just some get out with a spring that can move forward or what is the deal? Do you know Jim?

Oh, good job by the way. Apparently the tip wasn't affected by the reprofile to the edge. That looked like some serious big chunks flying out of that log in a couple stabs!

STR
 
Yeah they should have put a shoulder in that rocker arm and that would have kept it from moving. Looking at mine it sure looks like it could have the same issue. I'm not using mine though so I doubt its going to move. I may reach in there and mark with a lead pencil or scribe to know where it is now though. That way if I notice that its moved I can either create a shoulder in it myself or cut a mark there for some retention and put a spot of epoxy there on the rocker arm and maybe glue the spring in the holder with some tacks there that could easily be broken should I ever need to replace it later.

Thanks for the break down pics. I saved those to my hard drive. :thumbup:

STR
 
Yeah they should have put a shoulder in that rocker arm and that would have kept it from moving. Looking at mine it sure looks like it could have the same issue. I'm not using mine though so I doubt its going to move. I may reach in there and mark with a lead pencil or scribe to know where it is now though. That way if I notice that its moved I can either create a shoulder in it myself or cut a mark there for some retention and put a spot of epoxy there on the rocker arm and maybe glue the spring in the holder with some tacks there that could easily be broken should I ever need to replace it later.

Thanks for the break down pics. I saved those to my hard drive. :thumbup:

STR


I emailed Andrew for advice on the easiest way to fix it. :D

It took me about 5 mins to fix the problem. :thumbup:

The newer Tri-Ads have a notch in the rocker arm so the spring doesn't move forward, plus there is a blade stop pin instead of using the rocker arm as a blade stop.

You can see what I am talking about here.

 
How many sharpenings you think you got left on that blade before the point starts to stick up out of the two sides when closed? Kind of hard to tell looking at it from the angle its at?
STR
 
How many sharpenings you think you got left on that blade before the point starts to stick up out of the two sides when closed? Kind of hard to tell looking at it from the angle its at?
STR

The way I sharpen, likely a thousand times before it would even start to get close. :D

But then I don't really remove a lot of metal unless I have too when sharpening.
 
I ground a notch on my blade rocker. It solved my problem. The notch has to take into account of the fact that the rocker arm has to self adjust. Don't know about epoxy though, wish I had got that idea. it is less damaging than grinding a notch.

Added another spring that I had spare. Both exactly fitted in the available width. Now my lockup snaps with a very loud sound. And I am the only person who can operate my lock because it is very tight.

Gound some tiger stripe groove to aid in grip retention, looks kinda groove.

STR you can grind the contact point (where blade contact touches the rocker lock) if sharpening makes the edge pops out. That'll make the edge go back in.
 
Thanks. I'm aware of that regarding grinding the point. Done it many times for folks. One just recently on a Strider PT. I was just wondering how close it was on that Rhino pictured because it looks like my point drops more than that ones but without both sides on the knife its just hard to tell. :thumbup: They are probably pretty close to identical. On some knives like that PT I had to grind on its just kind of a shame because there really isn't any way to get that original finish look back on the spine where you have to take it down. On a knife like this Black Rhino its not so bad though.

STR
 
I emailed Andrew for advice on the easiest way to fix it. :D

It took me about 5 mins to fix the problem. :thumbup:

The newer Tri-Ads have a notch in the rocker arm so the spring doesn't move forward, plus there is a blade stop pin instead of using the rocker arm as a blade stop.

You can see what I am talking about here.



what did you do to the thumbstud?
 
Actually it doesn't look like mine either. Mine is bigger in diameter than yours! ??

STR
 
I wonder what the life span of the spring used on the new tri-ad knives will be. I have a ton of old lock backs that are still going strong BUT......no other lock back has that deep of a lock up. Those springs bend twice as much as others when depressed to unlock. I've cycled my mini LM an un godly amount of times and it doesn't quite have the "snap" as it once did NIB. Still has the same tight lock up, but I wonder about long term usage with the new design and a relatively thin flat spring. I'm not knocking the knives at all, I have a few of the new designs. Now please don't take this the wrong way as I am not trying to compare companies but wouldn't the slight arc and beefed up spring that Spyderco utilizes in their US made knives flex a little better for a longer period of time without "relaxing"? STR...You've worked on a few worn out knives...what's your thought.
 
Yeah but looking at the construction fixing these would be a non issue compared to say an older pinned type lockback we grew up with. I've already replaced one of mine in my mini AK47 with a bigger spring I made out of .050 thickness titanium making it even wider than the original so it filled the entire with of the spring holder. Took very little time and all I had to do was slice a piece out with my band saw and bend it roughly to the same bend shape as the original spring. Took a little tweaking to mess with it to get it just right but I eventually nailed it pretty good. It really twacks down on that blade now!

I've got some 35 plus year old Buck lockbacks that are still fine. I have a feeling even with the added distance these travel that they'll be fine for a lot of years as they are but again, even if they broke it is an all screw construction and if you had both pieces to copy it the easiest way to do it would be using titanium to make your own. A sheet of ti in .050 thickness 12" x 12" is about $25 shipped. So you could probably get an end cut from a dealer for a song and just grind your own on a bench sander pretty easily. Even a novice could do this if you had the original spring and some body pliers or toothless pliers of some kind for craft work.

STR
 
it looks like there is some sort of washer at the base.


mine are all black, threaded, and have a flathead driver notch on one side. though turning it doesn't seem to do anything. :confused:

No washer and it has the flathead notch on the other side. :)
 
Just wanted to thank you for all these tests Ankerson, you' re doing a great service to all of us:thumbup:
Hope you continue doing it:)
 
Just wanted to thank you for all these tests Ankerson, you' re doing a great service to all of us:thumbup:
Hope you continue doing it:)

Thanks. :)

If I get more knives to test it will continue. :thumbup:

I will test them as I receive them. :)
 
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