Vids: Hot waxing leather gear

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bladerique

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Aug 31, 2010
Messages
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For those not familiar, hot waxing leather can make it moldable and virtually waterproof. When it dries it's hard. Nature's kydex so to speak.

One method: Heat gun, stove, bees wax and brush.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iu-78NiSPCU


Another method: Man-made wax, stove and submersion with oven pre-heat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBnhWeJbBiI&feature=related


Disclosure: I've never done this but would like to. i'm no expert. I've shied away from leather sheaths in the past, but would like to try this on my lone leather sheath. The problem is it's likely been treated with something I can't identify yet [Condor sheath].
 
I've used Nikwax for a few years - It's not hard - Only the user is

Haven't been able to find it lately though - is it coming back in?
 
RedbeAR15 said:
I've used Nikwax for a few years - It's not hard - Only the user is

Haven't been able to find it lately though - is it coming back in?
Click to expand...


I've never used Nikwax, so I googled it [it's available online]. That's a different thing. Hot waxing makes a leather sheath form fitting and hard like kydex.
 
I've hot waxed many sheaths using canning wax. It's very simple to do, it requires a flat pan long enough and deep enough for the object being waxed. Make sure the wax doesn't get too hot; that will cook the leather and ruin it. If you can't put your finger into the liquid wax and keep it there, it's too hot.

Submerge the sheath in the liquid wax, turning it until bubbles stop coming out of the leather. Then remove the sheath and let the excess wax drain. Wipe the sheath down with a clean cloth while the sheath is still hot. Make sure you invert the sheath so the wax can drain out of the inside. Use the cloth to wipe off all excess wax from the body of the sheath.

Insert the knife into the sheath CAREFULLY, as a hot sheath with warm wax can be easily cut. Mold the sheath to the knife, let sit for a few seconds, and remove the knife. Don't leave the knife in the sheath or it will be difficult to remove. Then let the knife cool.

Andy
 
Nick at NWA Knives is an expert at this. His knives "click" when going into his wax treated sheaths. Wish he could start making knives again.
 
Why do most people recommend beeswax? In SkogKnivs video(the second one), he used what I assume was parrafin, and it seemed to work fine, and it's way cheaper. I've only ever used parrafin, rubbing it on then using a blow dryer to melt it in, so I've never done the dipping method before, but the wax did what I expected it to do.
 
I use a mix of beeswax, pine pitch, and neatsfoot oil. Making several batches I have finally found the recipe I want.
 
Halberdier said:
You can also use Sno-Seal. Easier and less messy. I bought some recently, but haven't used it yet to see how well it works. Here's a vid by someone else.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11eoBzyZ9Us
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That looks like an easy and functional method, but it won't harden the leather to give it an almost kydex quality. You can hear the blade "snap in" when a sheath is properly waxed.


j williams said:
I use a mix of beeswax, pine pitch, and neatsfoot oil. Making several batches I have finally found the recipe I want.
Click to expand...

What advantages does that mixture have?
 
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