Villager question...

BruiseLeee

BruiseLeee

Joined
Sep 7, 2001
Messages
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I was looking at a villager model that I have (not a Birghorka model) but the standard vill. It seemed to me that the steel use in its construction was not as dense as the stuff used in a HI khuk.

Is this true or am I seeing things?

:confused:
 
You have better eyes than me but for obvious reasons village khukuris might be made of any kind of steel available. At BirGorkha we are still using the MB springs and nothing else.
 
Originally posted by BruiseLeee
I was looking at a villager model that I have (not a Birghorka model) but the standard vill. It seemed to me that the steel use in its construction was not as dense as the stuff used in a HI khuk.
Is this true or am I seeing things?

:confused:
Click to expand...

Bruise can you elaborate more on this?

There's been many a fine jungle or bush knife made made in said spot from plain old railroad track steel.:)
I can't tell what my Sundang is made from but I strongly suspect my African Sword is made from a piece of railroad track.

And one of these days I will send it (my Sundang) off to Federico for a new handle and maybe a new scabbard.

Federico would coin silver still in the form of coins be alright to use for the fittings on my Sundang?
 
It's hard to explain. I don't know if it's the hardness or how to describe it. It's like having a knife made from a Hershey bar and another one made from an Aero.

The villager just seems less dense when tapping on it with a knuckle.

:yawn: Maybe I just need more sleep.
 
YVSA -

Depending on the type of coin, it is probably worth more in coin form. Of course that's not an issue if there's some special reason for using the coins. You'd also have to go through the trouble of selling the coins.
 
Originally posted by Tohatchi NM
YVSA -

Depending on the type of coin, it is probably worth more in coin form. Of course that's not an issue if there's some special reason for using the coins. You'd also have to go through the trouble of selling the coins.
Click to expand...

Tohatch the silver coins that used to be US Currency can be melted down fairly easily to make many different items from.
A lot of the old Pawn Silver from the Dine, Zuni and the like was coin silver melted down.
It's also fairly malleable in that it can be hammered out into strips if done carefully.:)

I've got an old silver half dollar that I formed into a convex/concave piece to put on my choker I sometimes wear. One of my work buddies saw me pounding on it on the end of a hardwood 2" X 4" and told me I was ruining its value.
I told him that when I got done with it that it would be even more valuable and it is. I've been offered some good money for that choker.:D
I have 20 of the gold colored Sacajawea dollars that I plan on putting on my straight dance bandoliers if I ever get to dance again. Some guys think I'm crazy for that as well, but they're just envious.:D
 
I have 20 of the gold colored Sacajawea dollars that I plan on putting on my straight dance bandoliers
Click to expand...

That dance regalia is already pricey--now you're making it OUT of money:eek: ;) :D This is further proof that you have the nicest wife in the world!:D;)
 
Actually, dollar coins would be cheaper than some of the other options I've seen on a straight-dance bandolier, especially if you buy conchas or abalone discs or what not from somebody else.

I agree, there's a long tradition of melting down coins for the metal, or using them to fashion other articles. Coin silver practically has the guarantee stamped on it!
 
Yvsa I can beat out coins, Ive done it in the past. However depending on size (and what its being used for), it may or may not work. Ferrules, and what not are ok, but them clamps around the blade, get difficult. Sheet silver isnt too bad. Often the same price, or just a tad bit more than buying coins. Though brass clamps, with silver ferrules arent bad either. Used to have access to a friends kiln, and so was able to melt down scrap and coins. But he's taken a disliking to glass blowing and so is selling it off...
 
Hmm..that is strange. Are you sure you're not tapping on the sheath?;)

Seriously tho, a knife that is forged will often be more dense than a stock removal blade, even if made from the same steel. Hammering is work-hardening, and the kami is compressing the steel as he hammers, making the steel molecules get really close together. If the blade was not hammered, but shaped then hardened, it should still be suitable to use, but it could look and feel less dense.

I have some forged swords and some stock removal swords, and the Hershey/Aero comparison would apply when comparing the swords. The hammered one is visibly more rigid than the stock removal one.

It could also just be different source steel.

Keith
 
Bruiser -
You got my curiosity up. My villager has definitely been hammered out (small fold lines near the spine and tip). I suspended it from a twine loop around the handle so as not to dull vibrations, and tapped it with various objects, to see what tone it would give. It rings, but it is no chime - A very good Bura (on which he spent some SERIOUS hammer time) has a much clearer tone, and not even the handle can damp it out entirely. Wothout the handles, both blades would ring.
Not a scientific test of anything at all, but an indication that the villagers could be any steel available (probably jeep or small japanese truck springs). The difference in "hammer talent" makes more difference, I'd guess. Buras' blades will come out more heavily packed and aligned than most any.
 
I guess to find out one would have to get some leaf spring samples from the junkyard and do the same tests. :o

I'm too lazy. :(
 
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