Vintage Axe worth restoring? (no name)

[Grimalkin]

hey guys,

So a few months ago I got all into knives and axes and whatnot, I went to this old house a few minutes away for his junk sale and came across an axe there. I didn't know anything about brand names at the time and basically bought what I thought was a good looking vintage axe. It had been re-handled once for sure that I was aware of, and the current handle was very run down. so I am assuming it is at least from the 60s perhaps. No name.

Handles are hard to buy up in Canada, I want a 19" handle. This head weighs 1.5lbs, so I just want to know if you think this is worth working on? Or should I just buy a kelly, collins, plumb, etc. I am also wondering if any of you know what those lines are all about on the axe head near the back post? I have looked at tons of vintage pics and haven't seen such a pattern as is on this head, its part of the steel. Cheeks look quite wide, I am also not sure about the design of this head, and if its worth putting the work into it.

Thanks!

 

[Hickory n steel]

hey guys,

So a few months ago I got all into knives and axes and whatnot, I went to this old house a few minutes away for his junk sale and came across an axe there. I didn't know anything about brand names at the time and basically bought what I thought was a good looking vintage axe. It had been re-handled once for sure that I was aware of, and the current handle was very run down. so I am assuming it is at least from the 60s perhaps. No name.

Handles are hard to buy up in Canada, I want a 19" handle. This head weighs 1.5lbs, so I just want to know if you think this is worth working on? Or should I just buy a kelly, collins, plumb, etc. I am also wondering if any of you know what those lines are all about on the axe head near the back post? I have looked at tons of vintage pics and haven't seen such a pattern as is on this head, its part of the steel. Cheeks look quite wide, I am also not sure about the design of this head, and if its worth putting the work into it.

Thanks!

I can't see the pictures, but as long as its still useable ( no fatal damage to it ) as seems like good steel when you try to file it, then as long as you like it it's absolutely worth hanging and putting to use.:thumbup:

 

[300Six]

Your pictures disappeared in a hurry (ie same day!). Any old (literally) head in good shape (not worn out or beat to death) is worth saving if the steel is good and it's something you figure on using. Show us pictures from all sides and ends. $10-15 invested in learning and materials plus sweat equity beats forking out $150 (or more) for a boutique jobbie that'll disappear the moment it's left untended. If there's a Home Hardware store near you go through their racks or ask at the counter about what's available in handles. Home carries a brand of handle that has no identifier or stickers or varnish but the wood is generally pretty darn good. They need to be thinned out a bit if you're serious about this, and rasped to fit the eye but they're not expensive ($10-12). Below are two examples of 28 inch from Home Hardware.

 

[quinton]

Your pictures disappeared in a hurry (ie same day!). Any old (literally) head in good shape (not worn out or beat to death) is worth saving if the steel is good and it's something you figure on using. Show us pictures from all sides and ends. $10-15 invested in learning and materials plus sweat equity beats forking out $150 (or more) for a boutique jobbie that'll disappear the moment it's left untended. If there's a Home Hardware store near you go through their racks or ask at the counter about what's available in handles. Home carries a brand of handle that has no identifier or stickers or varnish but the wood is generally pretty darn good. They need to be thinned out a bit if you're serious about this, and rasped to fit the eye but they're not expensive ($10-12). Below are two examples of 28 inch from Home Hardware.

The one on top sure has purty wood grain!

 

[Grimalkin]

Your pictures disappeared in a hurry (ie same day!). Any old (literally) head in good shape (not worn out or beat to death) is worth saving if the steel is good and it's something you figure on using. Show us pictures from all sides and ends. $10-15 invested in learning and materials plus sweat equity beats forking out $150 (or more) for a boutique jobbie that'll disappear the moment it's left untended. If there's a Home Hardware store near you go through their racks or ask at the counter about what's available in handles. Home carries a brand of handle that has no identifier or stickers or varnish but the wood is generally pretty darn good. They need to be thinned out a bit if you're serious about this, and rasped to fit the eye but they're not expensive ($10-12). Below are two examples of 28 inch from Home Hardware.

Dangit I can't believe those pics!! I edited the initial post, they should show up now, post is a little beat up, but no severe mushrooming by any means.

I literally JUST got back from Home Hardware, they have some nice 28" handles, but no 19" or even 20". I had a thought to cut down a 28" handle, would that be strange? They had a really nice boys thinner 28" handle that would be perfect for this type of project, but a cut down handle might not be the best shape. What are your guys' thoughts on taking down 9 inches from a 28" handle?

 

[Hickory n steel]

Dangit I can't believe those pics!! I edited the initial post, they should show up now, post is a little beat up, but no severe mushrooming by any means.

I literally JUST got back from Home Hardware, they have some nice 28" handles, but no 19" or even 20". I had a thought to cut down a 28" handle, would that be strange? They had a really nice boys thinner 28" handle that would be perfect for this type of project, but a cut down handle might not be the best shape. What are your guys' thoughts on taking down 9 inches from a 28" handle?

Not strange at all, but I'd go with a much fatter full size handle so you have enough material to create proper shoulder, and so you can reshape it how you want it. If you have to cut it down why not just make it an even 20":thumbup: the head looks more like a splitting hatchet to me ( but it may just be a little thicker than you normally see ) either way I'd just go for it. It seems to have a lot of bit left to.it.

 

[Grimalkin]

Not strange at all, but I'd go with a much fatter full size handle so you have enough material to create proper shoulder, and so you can reshape it how you want it. If you have to cut it down why not just make it an even 20":thumbup: the head looks more like a splitting hatchet to me ( but it may just be a little thicker than you normally see ) either way I'd just go for it. It seems to have a lot of bit left to.it.

okay, I suspected it was likely used more for splitting with those fat cheeks. I do want to get an overall bush 19-20" 1.5lb for hiking. I don't think this head will lend itself as well to felling smaller diameter trees. I am sort of wanting to get a Small Forest Axe type tool, but with a bit bigger cheeks.

This is a 1.5lb kelly I found a pic of. Looks like it has better geometry for what I am wanting, would any of you be able to confirm that?

 

[Hickory n steel]

okay, I suspected it was likely used more for splitting with those fat cheeks. I do want to get an overall bush 19-20" 1.5lb for hiking. I don't think this head will lend itself as well to felling smaller diameter trees. I am sort of wanting to get a Small Forest Axe type tool, but with a bit bigger cheeks.

This is a 1.5lb kelly I found a pic of. Looks like it has better geometry for what I am wanting, would any of you be able to confirm that?

That ones a little thinner, but still kinda thick. If you can find a riggers axe head ( a hatchet with a framing hammer head on the back ) they weigh 1-3/4 lbs and it would be a great option if hung on a 20-22" handle ( about the profile your looking for, plus the added benefit of a real hammer instead of a soft axe poll )

 

[herektir]

That one with the pretty wood grain has terrible runout for a working axe. Great for one that hangs on a wall.

 

[Grimalkin]

Hey guys, for all you from Canada, I just found that Rona.ca carries axe handles. I looked at home depot and they had nothing so I assumed that Rona didn't have anything either. But they have a rather impressive selection, lacquer can be removed easily. I found a semi vintage 1.5lb Hults Bruk that looks more ideal for what I want. Its much thicker than the Small Forest Axe, but still european thinner than american stuff, looks like a good compromise.

http://www.rona.ca/en/tools/striking-tools/handles-and-accessories

 

[300Six]

The one on top sure has purty wood grain!

Yeah, purdy disgusting! I think some of the forum members on here are quite familiar with that particular handle, just never spied it at that angle. Manufacture date must have been April 1st or when Q.C. and/or the boss was out to lunch.

 

[quinton]

Yeah, purdy disgusting! I think some of the forum members on here are quite familiar with that particular handle, just never spied it at that angle. Manufacture date must have been April 1st or when Q.C. and/or the boss was out to lunch.

You ain't just kidding, it's bad.

 

[300Six]

Hey guys, for all you from Canada, I just found that Rona.ca carries axe handles. I looked at home depot and they had nothing so I assumed that Rona didn't have anything either. But they have a rather impressive selection, lacquer can be removed easily. I found a semi vintage 1.5lb Hults Bruk that looks more ideal for what I want. Its much thicker than the Small Forest Axe, but still european thinner than american stuff, looks like a good compromise.

http://www.rona.ca/en/tools/striking-tools/handles-and-accessories

The Rona lumber-hardware chain is Quebec based but was recently bought out lock, stock and barrel by Lowes of USA. Brands and goods on the shelves will soon be changing. If memory serves me Elgin brand is a Garant P.Q. product.

 

[Grimalkin]

really? I should get down there and pick up a handle pronto! thanks for the heads up.

 

[1215]

God every time I come back to this place I get sucked right back in!!! OP, if you won't restore it, send me a PM and I'll give you my address. I'll restore it for you and send it back to you.

 

[Agent_H]

"Restore"

 

[Hacked]

okay, I suspected it was likely used more for splitting with those fat cheeks. I do want to get an overall bush 19-20" 1.5lb for hiking. I don't think this head will lend itself as well to felling smaller diameter trees. I am sort of wanting to get a Small Forest Axe type tool, but with a bit bigger cheeks.

This is a 1.5lb kelly I found a pic of. Looks like it has better geometry for what I am wanting, would any of you be able to confirm that?

I beg to differ, it has a high centerline or convex cheeks which will make for a good chopper and splitter. Thin the bit out a little and put a nice sharp edges on it and I'd be willing to bet you will be amazed at how well it performs. I would try to find a boys axe handle that you can cut down to a 20-22 overall length. I have a hatchet with a 18.5" handle and I find myself wishing the handle were a bit longer for 2 hand use. Thin cheeks as far as I'm aware are best suited for carving, and finer work. That axes profile is better suited for the uses you described.

 

[Grimalkin]

Thanks for your thoughts Hacked, I might just start collecting axes and seeing which one works better. This head is a lot cheaper than a 1 1/2lb Hults Bruk I am looking at. As long as it can semi-carve and do some feather sticks, I think it will be an awesome project (the kelly hatchet). I found a nice 21" handle supplier I can use in Canada so I think that will be the perfect length for this project (maybe around 20" after the head is hung)

@1215, haha! It has been sitting in my room here for a few months, I might just bite the bullet and get on with it in addition to my other ideas, thanks for the offer though, you must really enjoy restoration?

@hickory That riggers axe is a good idea, but 1/4lb too heavy for what I am wanting to do with it. I'll keep an eye out for that though just for a fun project perhaps!

 

[Grimalkin]

So I have done the work on this one, got her razer sharp and hung. I am still new at this and had a tough time getting the wood to fit the eye in the front (on top) before putting in the wedge.

So I thought I had to use a metal wedge just to make it more tight because I did a bad job getting the wood to fit nice at the front of the eye.... I think I am never going to do again. I cracked one side of the wood after putting the wedge in the wrong spot. Completely stupid amateur mistake. I spent a significant amount of time carving the handle to fit so I am pretty bummed about this.

These pics are after a night of BLO soak. Will it effect the reliability of this axe? Is this axe safe to use? There are no cracks under the head. I also used gorilla glue for the wedge.

 

[Square_peg]

It's no problem. Don't worry about. But that's why many of us stay away from metal wedges. If the split runs down through the eye then you'll to keep an eye on it.