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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
vintage brand knives
- Thread starter navihawk
- Start date
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- Jul 17, 2004
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The blades are very hard to open and that is no kidding. However, there are ways to condition knives like this but it will take time.. You might call Billy(Pup) and ask him if he will test some to get you the least hard to open knife. He is a fine gent and is very easy to work with.
Best,
Anthony
Best,
Anthony
I have one of those. Its a good quality piece, built to last, made just like in the old days. The bit about hard opening is only partly true. The spear blade has a pretty hard snap but its not too hard to open. The clip however has a bit of a design flaw in that the nick is way too far back(last 1/3 of the blade) to get enough leverage to open the blade. If the nick was at the right end of the blade where it should be it would be fairly easy to open but as is its nearly impossible.
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2006
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I have more use with the clip.The website says you can grab the clip with your fingers to open it easily. Do you find that to be so?
Maybe we can trade for something?
Theres no way you can grab the clip at all. It can be opened but its not easy. I do carry it quite a bit and like it, and I use the spear point more than the clip anyhow. I don't think I would ever get rid of it since only 100 were made and none likely to be made ever again. Its probably one of the best factory slipjoint knives made in the past couple decades anyhow, get one while they are still available.
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I'm gearing up to sell some off on the bay.Time to move some out to get some in. Starting off with selling a Cairns & brother leather helmet.(in case theres some firefighters/collectors on the forum)Don't know if its proper forum etiquette to put a link in.
I use mine a lot. I like it and love the ebony. Fit and finish are excellent.
The blades were stiff but I could open both from the get go. However, it is a lot easier now I worked it in with oil. I don't think the placement of the nick is a flaw, just old fashioned. People are used to weaker case springs. My real complaint was the Queen edge which needed reprofiling on both blades. For his next run of pocket knives, Billy should specify an edge angle to Queen to guarentee a razor sharp blade.
The blades were stiff but I could open both from the get go. However, it is a lot easier now I worked it in with oil. I don't think the placement of the nick is a flaw, just old fashioned. People are used to weaker case springs. My real complaint was the Queen edge which needed reprofiling on both blades. For his next run of pocket knives, Billy should specify an edge angle to Queen to guarentee a razor sharp blade.
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Hi Brownshoe,Was it worth the $155.00 price tag?Is the shield pinned?
Thanks for the info.I was looking at Mooremaker also for an EDC. Hows the knife fit in the pocket?It looks like a winner.
navihawk,
In my opinion, it's VERY much worth the $155 fot it! I have one..bought it right after they came out and talked to Billy about it. Although the backsprings are stiff, I find no difficulty in getting either the clip or spear blades open. I carry mine and use it a lot. It's a great reproduction of an old pocketknife. In configuration, it's very much like the pocketknife shown in the woodcarving from Nessmuk's book on woodcraft. You won't go wrong in getting one!
Ron
In my opinion, it's VERY much worth the $155 fot it! I have one..bought it right after they came out and talked to Billy about it. Although the backsprings are stiff, I find no difficulty in getting either the clip or spear blades open. I carry mine and use it a lot. It's a great reproduction of an old pocketknife. In configuration, it's very much like the pocketknife shown in the woodcarving from Nessmuk's book on woodcraft. You won't go wrong in getting one!
Ron
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Thanks Ron. It's a done decision.I am a sucker for ebony scales and an old style shield.....of course its gonna take a little while
Steve
Is it worth it? It kind of depends upon what pulls your trigger.
To a slipjoint lover, who wants ebony and 1095 steel, it is worth the money and is the only game in town for a production knife. I believe, Case did some ebony handled knives for Smokey Mountain, but that was a single run a few years back and in stainless. There is not another production moose in 1095 that I know of. I don't believe there is another swell center moose in production by anyone irrespective of blade steel. It's unique and to a slipjoint lover, that's cool.
For the slipjoint lover who wants a collectible...who knows the value of this brand/mark, since it's the first pocket knife. If you look at the knif as a Queen, then it is Schatt and Morgan quality which usually goes for over $100 (even discounted) and S&Ms cannot be gotten in 1095. The fit and finish plus edge is better than Northwood's fake scagels (i've got one) that are in 1095, generally cost more and usually have only one blade. Plus you won't see the knife discounted, 'cause only Billy sells them
but you can get the fake scagels at all sorts of prices.
The shield is pinned.
The swell center fits great in the palm of your hand making it a good user. The mirror polished 1095 gets a wild patina, that I love taking off with Flitz. I keep the blades shiny even though it's 1095 just because I am ornery This is kind of a test knife for me...can I keep a carbon steel blade shiny and pit free even though it gets used regularly? I've had no problems. I keep it well oiled because the backspring is also carbon steel and I don't want too many freckles on the springs.
To a slipjoint lover, who wants ebony and 1095 steel, it is worth the money and is the only game in town for a production knife. I believe, Case did some ebony handled knives for Smokey Mountain, but that was a single run a few years back and in stainless. There is not another production moose in 1095 that I know of. I don't believe there is another swell center moose in production by anyone irrespective of blade steel. It's unique and to a slipjoint lover, that's cool.
For the slipjoint lover who wants a collectible...who knows the value of this brand/mark, since it's the first pocket knife. If you look at the knif as a Queen, then it is Schatt and Morgan quality which usually goes for over $100 (even discounted) and S&Ms cannot be gotten in 1095. The fit and finish plus edge is better than Northwood's fake scagels (i've got one) that are in 1095, generally cost more and usually have only one blade. Plus you won't see the knife discounted, 'cause only Billy sells them
but you can get the fake scagels at all sorts of prices.The shield is pinned.
The swell center fits great in the palm of your hand making it a good user. The mirror polished 1095 gets a wild patina, that I love taking off with Flitz. I keep the blades shiny even though it's 1095 just because I am ornery
This is kind of a test knife for me...can I keep a carbon steel blade shiny and pit free even though it gets used regularly? I've had no problems. I keep it well oiled because the backspring is also carbon steel and I don't want too many freckles on the springs.
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I have a Smokey Mountain ebony mini copperlock I like alot.Used to own an old Cattaragus ebony handled sleavboard whittler that was great.I looked at the S&M's today. They look reasonable, but all I could find was a rail splitter.Like you said, has the stainless blades. I like a good steel that ages.All my blades seem to end up with a satin finish. I just crocus them clean.
I think the nickel silver liners go with the ebony.That Cat I had had the nickel silver liners and it looks great.I have a Case XX 62087 with ns liners.It's sort of like a custom production run for the companies,something special I think.
I think the nickel silver liners go with the ebony.That Cat I had had the nickel silver liners and it looks great.I have a Case XX 62087 with ns liners.It's sort of like a custom production run for the companies,something special I think.
Halfstops keep the knife from closing accidently on your fingers. A knife with a strong spring can snap shut from the fully open positon in the right circumstances if it does not have halfstops, especially bad if your fingers are in the way when you close the knife. The halfstop is just that- a stop at the halfway point that keeps the blade from snapping shut.
In addition, a square tang can help keep dirt and grime out of the pivot. This is also known as "square and clean", that is the end of the tang was fitted so as to be flush with the end of the bolster. Thing is you can't really do this with a round bolster and still have halfstops. However, lots of older knives with round bolsters do have halfstops with the square end of the tang set into the end of the bolster.
navihawk, you will find as you use your Vintage Knives "Moose" that the blades will become more smooth in their opening and a little easier on the fingers. Even with the clip, I have no problems opening mine, using the very technique Billy describes on his website. Once open, the blades are almost as "solid" as a lockback!
Get one and I believe you will find it a very useful and enjoyable pocketknife to own.
Ron
Get one and I believe you will find it a very useful and enjoyable pocketknife to own.
Ron
i bought one of these when they first came out, but only learned later that they were made by Queen. it still waits on my sharpening bench with other Queens, to have a useable edge put on it. there is no excuse; $10 Chinese knives regularly have a sharp edge. i have played with it hoping to ease the clip blade spring tension, but to no avail yet. i have fairly strong hands and thick nails from working with dirt and rocks daily, but it still gouges my nail when i open it. often i get it started, then it snaps back shut. that's when you could really cut yourself, as other hand is gripping knife really hard to provide enough resistance, as your nail and finger grip and pull as hard as possible. if either hand slips, a finger could get in the way.
i also think a knife of this price should have 1/2 stops.
to Billy i say "good first knife, but could(should) be improved upon. for Vintage knife #2, hire a "master" who will personally put a perfect edge on them; and, choose a pattern (whittler ?) that allows 1/2 stops." then i would buy another Vintage knife. roland
i also think a knife of this price should have 1/2 stops.
to Billy i say "good first knife, but could(should) be improved upon. for Vintage knife #2, hire a "master" who will personally put a perfect edge on them; and, choose a pattern (whittler ?) that allows 1/2 stops." then i would buy another Vintage knife. roland