Recommendation? Vintage Craftsman 4810 Hatchet - Good Enough?

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Nov 13, 2022
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I have a vintage Craftsman 4810 Hatchet, and it still has the original leather sheath (it needs a bit of leather care). It's a solid piece of some sort of high carbon or tool steel, with a rubber handle. It looks a lot like solid Estwing hatchets, which are 1055 carbon steel. I haven't been able to find the steel type. But, since it's quite rusted (but not too badly), I'll assume it's 1055 or higher. It weights 1_lb 9.5_oz without the sheath, and has a 2.75" cutting edge, and a flat grind. OAL is a tad over 13".

My question is whether this hatchet is good enough for a bug out bag. It was bought in the early 1980s, maybe late 70s. My mom gave it to me. It's seen a lot of use, with no chips or rolls, So the steel must be pretty good. The rubber handle is splitting slightly due to dry rot, but I can fix that. I can either remove the rust, or use paint-over-rust that they make for vehicle ladder frame chassis. I'd rather not spend money on a new hatchet, if this one works fine. I suspect it's a lot better than new hatchets with stainless steel heads.

The only negative I can think of, is that since it's an entire piece of forged steel, the handle will be heavier, and I'll get less power on the swing.

So, do I keep this old, solid hatchet, that's last at least 34 years, or do I spend money on a new high carbon steel hatchet?
 
I have a vintage Craftsman 4810 Hatchet, and it still has the original leather sheath (it needs a bit of leather care). It's a solid piece of some sort of high carbon or tool steel, with a rubber handle. It looks a lot like solid Estwing hatchets, which are 1055 carbon steel. I haven't been able to find the steel type. But, since it's quite rusted (but not too badly), I'll assume it's 1055 or higher. It weights 1_lb 9.5_oz without the sheath, and has a 2.75" cutting edge, and a flat grind. OAL is a tad over 13".

My question is whether this hatchet is good enough for a bug out bag. It was bought in the early 1980s, maybe late 70s. My mom gave it to me. It's seen a lot of use, with no chips or rolls, So the steel must be pretty good. The rubber handle is splitting slightly due to dry rot, but I can fix that. I can either remove the rust, or use paint-over-rust that they make for vehicle ladder frame chassis. I'd rather not spend money on a new hatchet, if this one works fine. I suspect it's a lot better than new hatchets with stainless steel heads.

The only negative I can think of, is that since it's an entire piece of forged steel, the handle will be heavier, and I'll get less power on the swing.

So, do I keep this old, solid hatchet, that's last at least 34 years, or do I spend money on a new high carbon steel hatchet?
Have you tested it? Does it chop and split? Is the grip secure or have you secured it? Can you touch up the edge with a file or stone? If the answers are yes, then it's going to be A-OK! Send pics!

Zieg
 
Have you tested it? Does it chop and split? Is the grip secure or have you secured it? Can you touch up the edge with a file or stone? If the answers are yes, then it's going to be A-OK! Send pics!

Zieg
I can certainly remove the rust, touch up the edge on my Work Sharp, oil the old leather sheath, and glue the rubber handle back together where it's splitting slightly. I remember using this hatchet as a kid. My parents always took us in camping vacations, because we didn't have the money for anything else. It's been so long, I can't remember how it performed. It's seen a lot of use, though, and there are zero chips or rolls on the edge. It's literally been sitting in my tool box for 20 years. The sheath doesn't have a belt loop, but that's probably not how I'd carry it. I guess I was wondering if it would work as well as a high carbon hatchet, with hickory handle. Hickory handles are lighter than a solid steel handle hatchet, so I suspect I'd get more power on the swing. However, a solid tool steel hatchet, will never break, provided the steel is not brittle. I believe the metal handle is solid, not hollow.
 
Have you tested it? Does it chop and split? Is the grip secure or have you secured it? Can you touch up the edge with a file or stone? If the answers are yes, then it's going to be A-OK! Send pics!

Zieg
BTW, I don't know how to post pics on this forum.
 
K115nud.jpeg

klVcyNK.jpeg

tzKCKjK.jpeg



BTW, I don't know how to post pics on this forum.
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Bob
 
Here's a link to a picture of the Craftsman 4810 hatchet I own.

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Bob
Good Lord, how did you find that old catalogue photo? That's impressive. And yes, I have the 26 model.
 
I believe Vaughan has been using 1080 for quite a long time, so your hatchet ( or was definitely made by Vaughan & Bushnell) is sure to be made of 1080.
Thank you. That's very helpful. I looked at Vaughn's website, but couldn't find info on the blade steel. 1080 would explain why it has zero chips or rolls, and it's also quite rusty.
 
K115nud.jpeg

klVcyNK.jpeg

tzKCKjK.jpeg




An internet search like "how to post pictures on a forum" may be of some help. However, if you want more specific information you could create a post here:

Explain your particular situation (equipment and experience) in the post. This may include:

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If you have an image, its location (your device or the internet)
If on the internet, where




Bob
I'm using the Chrome Browser on my android phone. I did not download the BladeForums app. is it worth downloading? I'll check to see how I can post photos I have on my phone. I suspect posting photos may be limited to paying members. I haven't paid for a membership yet.
 
I'm using the Chrome Browser on my android phone. I did not download the BladeForums app. is it worth downloading? I'll check to see how I can post photos I have on my phone. I suspect posting photos may be limited to paying members. I haven't paid for a membership yet.
Sorry, I have not used my phone to access BladeForums. You do not need a paid membership to post photos.


Bob
 
I think you’re headed for success, with your boyhood hatchet. Now just tune up your grandpa’s ‘49 F-100 and you’re on the road.

As you say, a solid steel hatchet is pretty near unbreakable, and Vaughan has been making first class tools for decades. The downside is, if you use it extensively, it’ll transmit a lot more impact vibration to your hand and arm than a wood handle.

Splitting kindling and barking poles for a rustic shelter, okay. Building a log cabin sans chainsaw, not so much.

Cool old tool, best of luck to you.

Parker
 
Thanks. They did put rubber handles on them, to absorb some of the shock, but I get what you're saying. The rubber on mine is also very old. I guess there's a reason people use hickory for axe and hatchet handles.
 
I think you’re headed for success, with your boyhood hatchet. Now just tune up your grandpa’s ‘49 F-100 and you’re on the road.

As you say, a solid steel hatchet is pretty near unbreakable, and Vaughan has been making first class tools for decades. The downside is, if you use it extensively, it’ll transmit a lot more impact vibration to your hand and arm than a wood handle.

Splitting kindling and barking poles for a rustic shelter, okay. Building a log cabin sans chainsaw, not so much.

Cool old tool, best of luck to you.

Parker

Added bonus is they hang nicely in a loop, the lighter handled tools have a tendency to flip. I remember framing as a kid in the 90's, and back when we had to actually pound nails with our hammers hickory handles ruled the constructions site. I did a bit of framing as an adult, by then nobody was pounding nails all day, so I ended up getting an Estwing just because it hung in a tool belt better.
 
I can certainly remove the rust, touch up the edge on my Work Sharp, oil the old leather sheath, and glue the rubber handle back together where it's splitting slightly. I remember using this hatchet as a kid. My parents always took us in camping vacations, because we didn't have the money for anything else. It's been so long, I can't remember how it performed. It's seen a lot of use, though, and there are zero chips or rolls on the edge. It's literally been sitting in my tool box for 20 years. The sheath doesn't have a belt loop, but that's probably not how I'd carry it. I guess I was wondering if it would work as well as a high carbon hatchet, with hickory handle. Hickory handles are lighter than a solid steel handle hatchet, so I suspect I'd get more power on the swing. However, a solid tool steel hatchet, will never break, provided the steel is not brittle. I believe the metal handle is solid, not hollow.
My questions were half genuine, half rhetorical. That's a great hatchet and there's very little you can't do with it. If you WANT a new hatchet, well, we're all collectors here. But if you want to use your vintage hatchet, you won't go wrong. It's a serious tool. My brother still uses our dad's Craftsman brand "Rocket" hammer with black rubber grip and steel handle from the '60s.

One of the best ways to knock rust off a hatchet, by the way, is to split wood with it. Get to work! 😁

Zieg
 
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My questions were half genuine, half rhetorical. That's a great hatchet and there's very little you can't do with it. If you WANT a new hatchet, well, we're all collectors here. But if you want to use your vintage hatchet, you won't go wrong. It's a serious tool. My brother still uses my dad's Craftsman brand "Rocket" hammer with black rubber grip and steel handle from the '60s.

One of the best ways to knock rust off a hatchet, by the way, is to split wood with it. Get to work! 😁

Zieg
Thanks. I just need to find a way to recondition the rubber handle. It has dry rot, and it's slightly split (pretty small).
 
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