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- Feb 16, 2010
- Messages
- 3,668
Now that you've followed the WIP on how to cut and drill bricks for a 2BF, let's build a frame for it and get rid of the crappy metal cloth!
Start with some 5" channel, 6" will work, 4" is a little too small. Cut off ½" to use as a handle!
You'll find that stand firebricks fit almost perfectly inside 5" square tubing with ¼" walls. You'll have to cut the corners off of the half bricks.
On both ends, drill 9/64" holes 3/8" deep in the middle of each side wall. Tap with an 8-32 so you can bolt the front and back plates on.
You'll want some 2" channel to use as uprights. Cut them about 5" long, and cut an extra 1" piece for use later.
Drill 13/32"(to fit 3/8" rod) holes on each side and a 9/64" hole lined up in the middle.
Your toolrest will stick into these big holes and you'll tap the 9/64 out with an 8-32 tap for your set screw.
12" of 3/8" round and the 1" piece of 2" channel, assemble and make your toolrest.
You'll want two plates, front and back, I put my son's name on them. 2½" hole in the middle with 3/16" holes on the sides so you can bolt it to the main chamber.
Weld your uprights to the channel and square.
Back welds
Front welds makes 3-point for a secure weld
1-1/16" pipe, cut at 3/4" with a 15° angle. Drill and tap three 9/64" holes for 8-32 thread at 120° and insert the set screws. Having the screws in will prevent the threaded holes from warping. It's very difficult to tap the threads after it's welded on.
Weld the intake about 1½" from the top, 2" from the back, angled back to front. Remove the set screws and using a BIG drill and 1" hole saw, drill out the inside of the intake. Have someone hold the forge in place and remove the pilot bit from the hole saw, it doesn't work well at an angle. You will probably want to discard the set screws you have been using up to this point, they will be splattered with welding and possibly have damaged threads.
Inspect the hole, put new set screws back in and weld your handle on top. The handle is a must and is what separates the Atlas from other forges!
Bolt your end plates on.
Cut and stuff your bricks. I prefer to drill all the bricks after installing them, all at the same time. I get a smoother chamber that way. I had to build my own 2½" drill bit for this.
I also built my own drill press that could accommodate the 12" travel required for drilling the whole chamber at once. Place the forge on the press and drill a nice, clean hole through the bricks.
Coat the inside of the chamber with refractory cement, preferably k26 or k30 rated
Get a torch with a high output. I prefer the MT245C by Magna Industries. I've tested about 10 different torches, and it is the highest output and one of the cheapest. 3" long center flame!
Here is the finished project. Okay, so you probably won't be able to forge weld damascus in the Atlas, but you can forge a blade and HT with no problem.
Start with some 5" channel, 6" will work, 4" is a little too small. Cut off ½" to use as a handle!
You'll find that stand firebricks fit almost perfectly inside 5" square tubing with ¼" walls. You'll have to cut the corners off of the half bricks.
On both ends, drill 9/64" holes 3/8" deep in the middle of each side wall. Tap with an 8-32 so you can bolt the front and back plates on.
You'll want some 2" channel to use as uprights. Cut them about 5" long, and cut an extra 1" piece for use later.
Drill 13/32"(to fit 3/8" rod) holes on each side and a 9/64" hole lined up in the middle.
Your toolrest will stick into these big holes and you'll tap the 9/64 out with an 8-32 tap for your set screw.
12" of 3/8" round and the 1" piece of 2" channel, assemble and make your toolrest.
You'll want two plates, front and back, I put my son's name on them. 2½" hole in the middle with 3/16" holes on the sides so you can bolt it to the main chamber.
Weld your uprights to the channel and square.
Back welds
Front welds makes 3-point for a secure weld
1-1/16" pipe, cut at 3/4" with a 15° angle. Drill and tap three 9/64" holes for 8-32 thread at 120° and insert the set screws. Having the screws in will prevent the threaded holes from warping. It's very difficult to tap the threads after it's welded on.
Weld the intake about 1½" from the top, 2" from the back, angled back to front. Remove the set screws and using a BIG drill and 1" hole saw, drill out the inside of the intake. Have someone hold the forge in place and remove the pilot bit from the hole saw, it doesn't work well at an angle. You will probably want to discard the set screws you have been using up to this point, they will be splattered with welding and possibly have damaged threads.
Inspect the hole, put new set screws back in and weld your handle on top. The handle is a must and is what separates the Atlas from other forges!
Bolt your end plates on.
Cut and stuff your bricks. I prefer to drill all the bricks after installing them, all at the same time. I get a smoother chamber that way. I had to build my own 2½" drill bit for this.
I also built my own drill press that could accommodate the 12" travel required for drilling the whole chamber at once. Place the forge on the press and drill a nice, clean hole through the bricks.
Coat the inside of the chamber with refractory cement, preferably k26 or k30 rated
Get a torch with a high output. I prefer the MT245C by Magna Industries. I've tested about 10 different torches, and it is the highest output and one of the cheapest. 3" long center flame!
Here is the finished project. Okay, so you probably won't be able to forge weld damascus in the Atlas, but you can forge a blade and HT with no problem.
