I was working on a restoration tonight, and I bumped a ~ 50 year old walnut handle with a Visa-vis marker. One stripe, about an inch long. I tried 70% IPA, then 91%, then lighter fluid all within about 3 minutes. The first didn't work, so the next. It did take 100 grit paper to get it out, as I think it was soaking in as I was cleaning. I am confident I might run into this in the future, any better suggestions?
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Visa-vis on wood???
- Thread starter michdad
- Start date
I was working on a restoration tonight, and I bumped a ~ 50 year old walnut handle with a Visa-vis marker. One stripe, about an inch long. I tried 70% IPA, then 91%, then lighter fluid all within about 3 minutes. The first didn't work, so the next. It did take 100 grit paper to get it out, as I think it was soaking in as I was cleaning. I am confident I might run into this in the future, any better suggestions?"Magic Markers" on porous surfaces like your wood, are almost impossible to remove with solvents.
As you said, the solvent may dissolve the marker, but it also drives it deeper into the wood, etc. If lighter fluid or alcohol don't work, you might try acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK).
WD-40 also works sometimes on some surfaces, but then you have to remove it with lighter fluid, etc, and like the others it soaks into porous surfaces.
The last resort, that usually works on wood, is sandpaper, but only if the marker hasn't soaked so deep that sanding won't get it.
On fabric, you can place a paper towel behind the spot to catch the solvent as it soaks thru. This helps prevent the spot from just getting larger as the solvent/dye absorbs into the fabric.
As you said, the solvent may dissolve the marker, but it also drives it deeper into the wood, etc. If lighter fluid or alcohol don't work, you might try acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK).
WD-40 also works sometimes on some surfaces, but then you have to remove it with lighter fluid, etc, and like the others it soaks into porous surfaces.
The last resort, that usually works on wood, is sandpaper, but only if the marker hasn't soaked so deep that sanding won't get it.
On fabric, you can place a paper towel behind the spot to catch the solvent as it soaks thru. This helps prevent the spot from just getting larger as the solvent/dye absorbs into the fabric.
Ebbtide
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 1999
- Messages
- 7,958
Next time scribble some marker on something else and test on that.
Different markers have different bases.
Some are water based and water will make them run.
Others are alcohol based and alcohol, and Rubber Cement Thinner (mineral spirits??) will make them run.
Once you can get the marker off your test medium, you'll know what to use on the wood. Even then it may not remove it all.
Good luck, I feel your pain.
Different markers have different bases.
Some are water based and water will make them run.
Others are alcohol based and alcohol, and Rubber Cement Thinner (mineral spirits??) will make them run.
Once you can get the marker off your test medium, you'll know what to use on the wood. Even then it may not remove it all.
Good luck, I feel your pain.
