Vojpuri Chiruwa Ang Khola (from DOTD 1-24)

snowwolf

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Hi guys,

I recently got this beast from DOTD 1-24

16.5 inch 29 ounce Vojpuri Chiruwa Ang Khola from Vojpur. Dhar wood handle.
1-24-14005_zpsd6a8b100.jpg


This CAK has no Kami marks. The steel on this blade is very hard and difficult to sharpen too. Which is a good thing for a heavy chopper. The unconventional handle is comfy but dangerous. The lack of larger butt makes it prone to slip out of hand. I'm trying to figure a simple modification to address it.

Is Vojpur a Kami or a region/village?
 
Pretty sure it is a region, like Dharan and Chainpur, and not an individual kami.

I think you could cut some deeper finger grooves in it to help with the grip.
 
Pretty sure it is a region, like Dharan and Chainpur, and not an individual kami.

I think you could cut some deeper finger grooves in it to help with the grip.

Good idea... I was also thinking of using the rear estate left on the tang to bolt a larger piece to emulate a more traditional butt.
 
Ever see the butt-end of a hockey stick? Players frequently wrap tape around it, adding an extra inch to the diameter. Effectively, emulating the bell on a standard hui.

Depending on the setup, may be able to do the same thing with the tape, or parachord.
 
Good idea... I was also thinking of using the rear estate left on the tang to bolt a larger piece to emulate a more traditional butt.
Now that is a good idea.
If it were me, I'd get a block of wood I liked and make a slot in it to fit over the end.
Shape to preference and then get a bit of brass tubing from the lowes or home depot and use a punch to flair the ends of the tubing.
Then you have a the traditional butt at the end and still have the lanyard hole.
 
Building a traditional shape pommel wouldn't be hard- I'd use micarta. Cut your profile, and some spacers the thickness of the tang, and pin/epoxy it together. then epoxy it to the tang, and stick a pin through pommel and tang lanyard hole so the pommel doesn't go walkies.
 
As mentioned, rehandling is definitely one option.

As another option, you could use a sanding drum and give yourself at least a deeper groove for the pinkey. Depends on if you swing with the little finger and the finger next to it holding on and let the blade rock or if you hold on tight with your index finger when you swing. I'd make the groove accordingly with a bit of a taper up the sides too - not just at the bottom.

Another option would be paracord or leather thong to give yourself a long retaining loop that could loop under hour hand and around your wrist. It might be annoying if you are chopping. It would be cheap to do and test though.
 
I really like that knife..different.good luck with the handle..looks a fun project.
 
Ever see the butt-end of a hockey stick?
I was born on a ice rink.

Although it would be an effective solution, I'm not sure I like the aesthetic :-)
It might worth a try as a quick fix.

black-grip.gif


Some premade for lazy/rich/bling bling kid do actually look good. I might try one of those and "heatshrink" it to the handle
oggie-classic-junior-hockey-stick-grip-3.jpg
 
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Now that is a good idea.
If it were me, I'd get a block of wood I liked and make a slot in it to fit over the end.
Shape to preference and then get a bit of brass tubing from the lowes or home depot and use a punch to flair the ends of the tubing.
Then you have a the traditional butt at the end and still have the lanyard hole.

Thank you all for your suggestions... I'm leaning toward this one.

As for a complete rehandling, it is not out of the question... Wait till you see what happened to my micro Bowie.
If it turns out anywhere close to what I expect, you guys will be drooling.
 
I have to admit I haven't stopped drooling since the micro Bowie arrived. One would think a fella would run out of drool sooner or later but apparently not around here.
 
I think after you run out of drool ya start foaming at the mouth:eek:Thats where im at on the micro-B
I have to admit I haven't stopped drooling since the micro Bowie arrived. One would think a fella would run out of drool sooner or later but apparently not around here.
I do like the tubing idea as well! Something about that knife I like alot! Cant wait to see the mods!
 
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Vojpur is a region. There are several kamis who resides in Vojpur region and makes Knife without the signature.
 
Field update - I had a lot of hope in this beast.
1-24-14005_zpsd6a8b100.jpg


The thick heavy blade and the wide angle grind on the edge makes it a surprisingly bad chopper. This Kuk barely bites in hard wood.

I really wonder what was its original intended purpose.

On the other hand I also brought this fellow (17" Inch 28oz Chiruwa Villager) in the woods.
HIVilager-vi.jpg


I didn't like it at first when I got it of the box because of its big drop. But oh my oh my this thing takes hard wood like butter.
It is an incredibly good chopper with a very secure grip (unlike the odd one displayed above)
 
That knife in your last photo is an ASTK (Amir Singh Thapa Knife). I believe Lachhu Kami makes all the ASTKs, and they all have the chiruwa-type handle with the lanyard hold. I'm glad that you find it to be an excellent chopper.

The Vojpur modified CAK does look kind of thick at the part of the blade running along the middle from tip to bolster, and the top fuller near the spine looks shallower than most CAKs, but all this is hard to judge from one side-view photo.

By comparison, the ASTK is forged with a wide, shallow fuller (or indentation) running the full length of the blade, starting just above the cutting edge. When the edge bites into a thick piece of wood, there's no thick steel behind the edge to get hung up in the wood. That seems to be a common feature of the heavy chopper models, when they are done right.
 
That knife in your last photo is an ASTK (Amir Singh Thapa Knife). I believe Lachhu Kami makes all the ASTKs, and they all have the chiruwa-type handle with the lanyard hold. I'm glad that you find it to be an excellent chopper. (...) By comparison, the ASTK is forged with a wide, shallow fuller (or indentation) running the full length of the blade, starting just above the cutting edge. When the edge bites into a thick piece of wood, there's no thick steel behind the edge to get hung up in the wood. That seems to be a common feature of the heavy chopper models, when they are done right.

Let me tell you, this one is very well done. It took everything I gave it without a sweat. Something I cannot say about myself.
I stopped beating it when I got so tired it was no longer safe to keep going.

That ASTK was as sharp as when I started. This thing is an absolute workhorse.
 
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