W.E. Hints, Tips, & Settings

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dwdickey

Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Messages
261
Ok...so I just purchased the wicked edge and it arrived yesterday evening. I bought the basic kit, face it these things aren't cheap and we all can't buy everything all at once. Got it all set up and have been tinkering with it since. Think I'm getting comfortable enough to start trying to put a superior edge on my more expensive knives. So far I've been sharpening up to the 600 grit then finishing on the fine rods on my sharp maker to finish out, add a slight micro bevel, and give it that hair popping edge until I can spring for additional stones. ETA: tried looking at the knife database on the WE site and can not search it, don't know if it's my computer (mac) or if it's an issue with their site.

Anybody willing to share some of their favorite "recipes" for the following blades:
(Depth, positioning, edge angle)

Hinderer XM 3.5 spanto
Hinderer XM 3.5 Slicer
Strider SMF
Benchmade 551
Large Sebenza
Small Sebenza

I could just go by trial and error but I'd like to have a baseline as to what others have found to wok for them to speed up the process and lessen the possibility of me messing up a good blade.
 
I think trial and error is the way to go actually since you're just doing your own knives. See what you like. The 600 grit should be hair popping sharp on its own btw.

Biggest piece of advice: Start at 20dps or so and work your way down. Test the edge at that angle then go lower if you need to.

If you start at say 14dps and find that it's too acute and the edge just rolls or chips you'll have to either have a stepped bevel or grind off a bunch of steel to get it back to 18dps or so.
 
dwdickey said:
Ok...so I just purchased the wicked edge and it arrived yesterday evening. I bought the basic kit, face it these things aren't cheap and we all can't buy everything all at once. Got it all set up and have been tinkering with it since. Think I'm getting comfortable enough to start trying to put a superior edge on my more expensive knives. So far I've been sharpening up to the 600 grit then finishing on the fine rods on my sharp maker to finish out, add a slight micro bevel, and give it that hair popping edge until I can spring for additional stones. ETA: tried looking at the knife database on the WE site and can not search it, don't know if it's my computer (mac) or if it's an issue with their site.

Anybody willing to share some of their favorite "recipes" for the following blades:
(Depth, positioning, edge angle)

Hinderer XM 3.5 spanto
Hinderer XM 3.5 Slicer
Strider SMF
Benchmade 551
Large Sebenza
Small Sebenza

I could just go by trial and error but I'd like to have a baseline as to what others have found to wok for them to speed up the process and lessen the possibility of me messing up a good blade.
Click to expand...
I just did a sebenza, i centered it in the clamp in the upper position..and went 15° per side with a 20° micro bevel.

GMP7jlc.jpg



Just a heads up on the spanto your bevel is gonna get wonky when you grind into the tip area bc of the thicker steel.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Just a heads up on the spanto your bevel is gonna get wonky when you grind into the tip area bc of the thicker steel.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That's why I asked, wasn't sure if there was an angle change that I should be doing to minimize that. I was already thinking of sharpening it like a traditional tanto as two separate edges.
 
dwdickey said:
That's why I asked, wasn't sure if there was an angle change that I should be doing to minimize that. I was already thinking of sharpening it like a traditional tanto as two separate edges.
Click to expand...
Only way to avoid it would be to change the angle on that portion to keep the bevel consistent then lower it again as you get past it. It just gets really thick in that one spot.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Hey Bobbie, I'm also new at the WE system and haven't achieved a mirror edge on any one of the 4 folders and 2 chefs knives so far like your Sebby. Maybe I need to spend more time with each grit from 800 on up?



my progression for every blade has been:

100 diamond
200 diamond
400 diamond
600 diamond
800 diamond
1000 diamond
1.4m ceramic
.6m ceramic

Move arms out 1% on each side.

1.0m diamond on leather strop
.5m diamond on leather strop
1.5 diamond lapping film
.1 diamond lapping film
 
Knurling_turtle said:
Hey Bobbie, I'm also new at the WE system and haven't achieved a mirror edge on any one of the 4 folders and 2 chefs knives so far like your Sebby. Maybe I need to spend more time with each grit from 800 on up?



my progression for every blade has been:

100 diamond
200 diamond
400 diamond
600 diamond
800 diamond
1000 diamond
1.4m ceramic
.6m ceramic

Move arms out 1% on each side.

1.0m diamond on leather strop
.5m diamond on leather strop
1.5 diamond lapping film
.1 diamond lapping film
Click to expand...
I'm using 50-1000, 3 micron diamond, 1200/1600 ceramic, until i get my choseras I'm using 2000, 2500, 3000 grit sand paper on platten paddles, then sometimes i start at 14/10 micron strop, others 5/3.5 strop, then 1, .5, .25 micron diamond sprays, and finish on .1 lapping film.

You should get the 1200/1600 ceramic and the 5/3.5 strop and you should have a mirror finish...just remove the scratches from each previous grit b4 moving on.

Also you should be moving your arms in to a lower angle to strop, not out to a higher angle.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Knurling_turtle said:
Hey Bobbie, I'm also new at the WE system and haven't achieved a mirror edge on any one of the 4 folders and 2 chefs knives so far like your Sebby. Maybe I need to spend more time with each grit from 800 on up
Click to expand...

Keep in mind if your stones are new they will be cutting overly aggressive for a time, as soon as they really break in (15-20 knives on avg) is when you'll really see the edge really take a mirror. Try using a little lighter pressure letting the stone do the work and ease up on your finishing stokes with each grit. You want to be sure you are removing all of the scratch pattern from the previous grit before laying a new scratch pattern and moving to the next grit.
 
Bobby3326 said:
I'm using 50-1000, 3 micron diamond, 1200/1600 ceramic, until i get my choseras I'm using 2000, 2500, 3000 grit sand paper on platten paddles, then sometimes i start at 14/10 micron strop, others 5/3.5 strop, then 1, .5, .25 micron diamond sprays, and finish on .1 lapping film.

You should get the 1200/1600 ceramic and the 5/3.5 strop and you should have a mirror finish...just remove the scratches from each previous grit b4 moving on.

Also you should be moving your arms in to a lower angle to strop, not out to a higher angle.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hey Bobby - which platen paddles are you using? Aluminum or glass?
 
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