W.I.P. For a B.F. Member / Large Bush Knife

bacustomknives

FULL THROTTLE / FULLTIME KNIFE MAKER
Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
13,078
This is work in progress thread for a "BF" member who wanted to see how his new handmade was being made,Aswell to show his friends and family,so heres his order in the process,:D

Aldos 5/32" 1095 BARSTOCK

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STOCK REMOVED

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NORMALIZING THE STEEL I DO MY 1095 ATLEAST 3-4 TIMES

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TIME TO REMOVE THE SCALE AND DRILL MY HOLES BEFORE I BEGIN TO GRIND
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TIME TO START GRINDING,HE WANTED A FULL FLAT SO HERE WE GO GRINDING,STARTED AT 50 GRIT AND ROUGHED OUT AT 120 GRIT

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NOW WERE READY TO HARDEN THE BLADE "QUENCH" SO IN THE FORGE AND IN TO THE QUENCH WE GO

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NOW ITS TIME TO TEMPER THE BLADE 2 TIMES AT AROUND 400 DEGREES FOR 1 HR EACH SOAK

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WELL HERE WE GO GONNA FINNISH IT UP, THE PICS SHOW THE STEPS PRETTY WELL SO HERE IT IS

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I DIDNT HAVE TIME TO MAKE FUZZ STICKS SO HERE IS SOME FUZZ PAPER
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COMES A LOADED PACKAGE
ALDOS 1095 STEEL
AWSOME ROSEWOOD BURL SCALES
DANGLER SHEATH INCLUDED FIRESTEEL
MEASURES 9" OVERALL WITH 4 5/8" RAZOR SHARP BLADE, AND I MEAN SCARY SHARP!!!
SINCE THIS WAS A USER I WENT WITH A 600 GRIT BELT FINNISH WITH FULL FLAT GRIND
 
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Here is one for you, steel gurus:

Panch0 shows a picture of a red hot blade cooling on what looks like a mild steel square tube. Can that cause a problem? I was thinking that the asymmetric cooling could bend the blade, or leave stresses in the steel, negating the purpose of normalization.

Thanks in advance
 
That is true, greater heat transfer on the metal bar side. I wonder if the effects are negligible though?
 
That normalizing cycle stuck out to me as well. I cool my normalizing blade tip up so it will cool evenly.
 
Ive had no problems what so ever with stress issues,aswell as warping is not an issue,i see know problem with it,or had no problem with it
If that were the case u would see stress factors or lines in or around my hamon or temper lines after being acid etched, this is just to try and satify your all minds and questions.
Thanks BILL
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