W2 and Crotch Walnut

Joined
Jul 27, 2003
Messages
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This one is a W2 blade that was clay-backed for exposing a hamon during hardening and is fitted with a piece of "firewood"!
Cut this out of a crotch of walnut and then dried for two years prior to sending it out for stabilizing.
It got so dark after finishing that I couldn't manage to truly reveal the "flame" on camera. It's almost as dark as African Blackwood.
Hot-blued mild steel take-down fittings.
wal5-1.jpg
 
He said crotch.........huh, huh, huh, huh, huh.:D Nice work as usual, sir:thumbup:
 
The blued guard goes really well with the dark walnut. And I really like how the line in the handle flows into the line of the lower part of the guard.

Very nice knife!
 
Lovely work as usual, and that handle grind is unmistakably Anderson. :D
It gets my vote for sure!

Ian
 
Lovely work as usual, and that handle grind is unmistakably Anderson. :D
It gets my vote for sure!

Ian

Thanks for your vote!
Just to clarify - I don't grind my handles. I don't want to intoduce any heat into the material.
My handles are filed.
 
I have to admit the title of the thread got my attention first;).
Now that I'm here, I have to say that I also am liking the looks of that knife:thumbup:.
That's very cool that you file your handles with hand tools. You know, for me, it's the hand finishing of a knife that does it. Such subtle nuances where it's difficult to modulate a cumbersome machine for a truly ergonomic fitted handle.
 
Thanks for your vote!
Just to clarify - I don't grind my handles. I don't want to intoduce any heat into the material.
My handles are filed.

I think I like it a bit more now. I assumed that nice curve was the product of a 4" contact wheel!
Mind you, I have cracked a piece of ebony in the past by over heating.
You live and learn eh?:)

Ian
 
That's a beautiful knife. Is there an orange color in that wood?
Thanks for the photo.
 
I think I like it a bit more now. I assumed that nice curve was the product of a 4" contact wheel!
Mind you, I have cracked a piece of ebony in the past by over heating.
You live and learn eh?:)

Ian

Tell you what, I learned that from an old timer - Jerry Rados. He taught me from his personal experience that there is barely ever any movement from natural materials if they are NEVER heated up.
Now, I may take a new, sharp 36 grit or 40 grit, and knock the corners off of a large block of handle material, but all of my actual shaping and finishing is done with cabinet maker's rasps, gun stock rasps and files.
 
That's a beautiful knife. Is there an orange color in that wood?
Thanks for the photo.
Not really. It does have these really unique vertical striations about every 1/2" that give it a tortoise shell effect, though.
One of the coolest pieces I've used in a long time.
 
Beautifull knife mr Andersen,i really like the handle profile and hamon,when yo said that
it has "Hot-blued mild steel take-down fittings" does it mean it is a take down design
where you can remove the handle? if so do you have pictures of it?
Marc
 
Thanks, Marc.
Tell you what, in order to save myself some time in doing more photography, editing, hosting and posting, I'll toss these up here and suggest that this one is very much like the other one.
I hope you understand.
I'm swamped.
rphA-1.jpg


rph6.jpg
 
Beautiful knives, Karl.

Do you number the parts so the customer can put it back together properly? :rolleyes: :eek: :D just messin' with you
 
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