W2

Walt2

Walt2

Joined
Mar 13, 2001
Messages
1,157
I finally decided to try some W2 and see how it is to work with. When it came time to finish the tempered blades, I quickly found out, forget the hand rubbed finish!!! What a PITA to finish, wound up with a 400 grit belt and then a scotch brite belt.
 
How hard did you leave it? I have never sent out a W2 blade that was any softer than 60Rc and I have no trouble finishing it. It is not bad like CruFroge V can be at 61 or CPM 3V. For hand rubbing any steel, I would offer the advice that i was given long ago by guys like Dr, Lucie. Buy yourself some EDM stones. I currently have 320 and 400 grit 1 inch and 1/2 inch wide stones.
 
Don't take the the wrong way, but you're giving in too easy. W2 in it's hardest state is still not that bad. It's steel, after all - it's not supposed to be THAT easy to finish!!!

Take your finish up as best you can with the machine, and then start with 320 grit by hand. If there's some evil, deep scratches, jump back to 220 grit or perhaps even back to the grinder. Work 'em out!!! All part of the process, man - don't let it beat you.

Make sure you've got good sanding sticks - makes a big difference. I just recently made the WORLD'S AWESOMEST SANDING STICK. Time well spent!!





If it's going to be in your hands that much, make it something you love.

😝


Keep at it, man.
 
Walt, I apologize... From the tone of your post, it sounded like you were just entering this realm. I just checked out your website, and that's obviously not the case. Pardon me - didn't mean to sound condescending!
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Don't take the the wrong way, but you're giving in too easy. W2 in it's hardest state is still not that bad. It's steel, after all - it's not supposed to be THAT easy to finish!!!

Take your finish up as best you can with the machine, and then start with 320 grit by hand. If there's some evil, deep scratches, jump back to 220 grit or perhaps even back to the grinder. Work 'em out!!! All part of the process, man - don't let it beat you.

Make sure you've got good sanding sticks - makes a big difference. I just recently made the WORLD'S AWESOMEST SANDING STICK. Time well spent!!





If it's going to be in your hands that much, make it something you love.

��


Keep at it, man.
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You should start making those to sell. Put me at the top of the list.
 
I find no difference in sanding W2 and 1095, 1084, 1080+, 52100. Cru forge V....different story. Same with M4. Those have more carbide structure and are more difficult to polish.
 
samuraistuart said:
I find no difference in sanding W2 and 1095, 1084, 1080+, 52100. Cru forge V....different story. Same with M4. Those have more carbide structure and are more difficult to polish.
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Dan Farr told me it was easier to work with, relatively speaking if you take it down to 59Rc by tempering at 425 instead of 400. Of course, i say, why take it down to 59 when it is crazy good at 61+? :D
 
I think W2 at 61 Rockwell is great to finish. It produces a very fine edge that sharpens well.

DSC02457.JPG
 
Fred.Rowe said:
I think W2 at 61 Rockwell is great to finish. It produces a very fine edge that sharpens well.

DSC02457.JPG
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Holy cow Fred. That small Santoku (I think) is nice. I love the cant of the handle. I bought a custom santoku a while back and the handle is all wrong, you end up smacking your knuckles before the edge hits the block.
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Love that stick too! Absolutely shames mine. :o
 
Omega Leather Works said:
Holy cow Fred. That small Santoku (I think) is nice. I love the cant of the handle. I bought a custom santoku a while back and the handle is all wrong, you end up smacking your knuckles before the edge hits the block.
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Love that stick too! Absolutely shames mine. :o
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Thank you Sir!

I purchased one previously and it had the same problem, you speak of, so when designing this pair I took this into account.


Fred
 
jdm61 said:
Dan Farr told me it was easier to work with, relatively speaking if you take it down to 59Rc by tempering at 425 instead of 400. Of course, i say, why take it down to 59 when it is crazy good at 61+? :D
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I've heard this several times now, the same quote from Mr Farr.
 
Back to the original topic - Walt, why are your struggling so much with this steel? Even at the hardness you mention, this stuff is not that difficult to finish out... The Rockwell hardness of such a simple steel with next to no alloying elements and not enough vanadium to offer significant carbide formation means that your finishing abrasives are almost orders of magnitude harder. What are we missing?
 
Proof that W2 does not have to be difficult to finish. Hanson W2 at around 63Rc done with EDM stones and Norton Black Ice and Rhynowet Red sandpaper. Remember that I am inherently lazy, so I'm not going to spend a month on a blade like I was repolishing some recently rediscovered Masamune sword. ;)
IMG_0363_zps6930c039-1_zpsf2c90b23.jpg
IMG_0367_zps8164674d.jpg
 
samuraistuart said:
I find no difference in sanding W2 and 1095, 1084, 1080+, 52100. Cru forge V....different story. Same with M4. Those have more carbide structure and are more difficult to polish.
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Had to go out of town for 3 days and just looked back at this. I have used O1,1095, 52100, D2, 3V, M4, CPM154, and CPMS35VN. These W2 blades I would say is between 3V and M4 in difficulty to do a hand rubbed finish. Do not know why but they are pretty close to M4.
 
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