Wa handle clamp

[Hubert S.]

I cut a slot into a cheap handscrew clamp for gluing up wa handles. This has worked much better for me than a similarly modified quick clamp or the vise and slotted bench dog I tried before. The hand screw can be adjusted to apply even pressure across the entire joint. I set the back screw to the length of the handle stack before I apply glue and the front screw to be a bit more open. The clamp is pretty stable sitting upright on the workbench. After everything is epoxied up, I push the handle together lightly by hand and cleanup the initial squeeze out, then put the handle in the clamp with the blade in the slot and tighten the front screw a bit. I then adjust the front and back screws to get even squeeze out across the joints. After about an hour, I pull the blade out, but the time will obviously depend highly on the epoxy used.

The pictures below show the modified clamp. I cut it on the table saw by clamping the clamp to the back fence of a cross cut sled with a couple of 2x4 offcuts as additional spacers to avoid cutting into the second clamp jaw. I used three cuts with an 1/8" blade with a 30mm depth of cut. I would probably make the slot a little bit taller if I did it again. I think the clamp I used is this 12 in Handscew Clamp from Harbor Freight that costs $10.99.

So far, this is the best method for gluing up wa handles I have tried. I'd be interested to know if any of you have a better way of doing it.

 

[scott kozub]

I use a boessy style clamp with a slot but this is better as it won't twist the handle like the screw type.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I have slotted wood clamps like you show for about 20 years. They work great because you can adjust lateral pressure.
Another good ( possibly better) clamp is taking a cheap HF plastic fast adjusting bar clamp and cutting a slot in one jaw.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-ratcheting-bar-clampspreader-62123.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-high-power-trigger-clampspreader-64991.html
I removed the end jaw and glued on a slotted wooden block on one like the image below.

 

[Cushing H.]

Is this used with the slotted dowel approach, and you do the glue up with the tang in place to avoid filling that space with epoxy?

 

[Hubert S.]

I've seen a few people on youtube use the quick clamps, so I tried them first. I had a hard time getting consistent pressure top to bottom and resorted to black dyed epoxy and black G10 spacers. My problems may be due to poor fit up, though. I slot the dowel before glue up and even with the blade inserted, the shorter piece of the handle ends up having a bit of play so it can rotate slightly when clamping pressure is applied off axis. With the wooden clamp I can compensate for it.

 

[PEU]

Time ago I built this clamp for hidden tang knives, its a Nick Wheeler idea, its a wood clamp with the top removed and replaced by a welded piece of steel which then is screwed to another one with a sleeve of leather on the inside to avoid scratches. Works great and is adjustable to all situations

Pablo

 

[Hubert S.]

Is this used with the slotted dowel approach, and you do the glue up with the tang in place to avoid filling that space with epoxy?

Yes, I slot the dowel. The blade is in place during glue up, but I pull it out before the glue sets completely. The blade is not only there to prevent the epoxy filling the slot, it also keeps the slot from closing in on itself. After I cut the slot, the two sides of the dowel always want to close in due to tension in the wood. The epoxy needs to set sufficiently to glue the dowel into the hole, but still let go of the blade. I do not apply wax or other release agent to the tang. The tang is smooth, though, and I only rough it up with 60 grit before final assembly.

I use West Systems 105 resin with 205 hardener and it is pretty slow, takes about an hour or more before I pull the blade out (this is inside at room temperature). Whenever I use epoxy, I spread a bit of the left over glue thinly on the popsicle stick I use for mixing the epoxy so I can check on the progress. The left overs in the mixing container harden more quickly and are not very indicative of the curing progress in the joint. After about half an hour, I pull the blade out a little bit and push it back in. I repeat that every 15 minutes or so and when it becomes more difficult to pull the blade out, I pull it out completely.

 

[Hubert S.]

Time ago I built this clamp for hidden tang knives, its a Nick Wheeler idea, its a wood clamp with the top removed and replaced by a welded piece of steel which then is screwed to another one with a sleeve of leather on the inside to avoid scratches. Works great and is adjustable to all situations

Pablo

I like this. I am happy with the screw clamp for initial handle glue up, but I might build one of these for final glue up to replace the parallel clamp and champagne cork I use to protect the tip.