Wagon Rims

[Rivervalleyforge]

Anyone know when the last wagon rims were handforged from wrought iron? If so what can you do with them? I have one from a late 1800's barn. The rim itself is about three and a half feet in diameter and about 3/4 of an inch thick. its slightly pitted and the outside edges are rounded off. there is a distinctly larger section where it appears to have been forge welded together.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Most likely WI, but that period had both types of rims. Best way to find out is cut a 3" long piece off, cut 1/2 way through it across the face, and bend it in a vise. If it frays or looks fibrous, it is WI. If it just bends and then breaks smooth, it is steel.
Another test would be to sand/grind the surface smooth to 400 grit and etch heavily in FC. Etch a piece of sanded mild steel at the same time. WI will be usually obvious compared to the plain steel.

 

[DevinT]

Some of those were made from low quality wrought iron. They are usable, I usually forge and fold a couple of times to refine them before using. I use them for hardware and cladding.

Hoss

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I use them to make hawks and axes.
Fold a 4" piece over in a "U" and add a 2"X3" cutting edge bit of hardenable steel. I usually use 1/4" thick 1070 for the bit, but have used old leaf springs, too. It is a good idea to weld the seams up in the eye with stick, MIG, or TIG. Then forge weld the bit in solid, drift the eye, and draw out the beard. You would be surprised at how big head you can get from a thick piece of wagon wheel WI. They make great Viking hand axes and throwing axes. Drifts can be purchased fairly cheaply on eBay and Amazon as well as some blacksmith supply places. A set of three drifts runs about $90.
After forging and basic grinding, a long soak in FC will make the WI look rustic. Then, finish the bit and sharpen it.
Other decorative options are piercing the cheek or stamping in patterns or numbers/letters. For throwing axes, a straight hickory handle works just fine.