Walking the Wall, the delights of the Whinn Sill.

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I have wanted to do this walk for years, after driving a car from start to finish to allow a couple of friends to do it :)
The Whin Sill is a slab of very hard volcanic rock, quartz dolerite, formed about 295mya. The sill slopes forming a relatively gentle gradient to the south but a steep, in places vertical, cliff to the north. It has been popular for making road sufaces so that chunks of it are now missing. In the year 122AD the Roman Emporor Hadrian thought that the north-facing cliffs were ideal for watching over the unconquered northern barbarians and ordered that the wall that bears his name, together with it's associated watchtowers, milecastles and forts should be built along them. The wall was planned to be 10 Roman feet thick, modified during construction to 8 feet, so there are sections in both gauges and others where a narrow wall sits on a broad foundation. It was probably around 14-15 feet high plus a parapet, as this seems to have been the norm at the time and there are clues at some wall locations.
The wall was garrisoned by troops from all over the Empire, including Spain, Syria and Iraq, about 15,000 men in all. What they thought of the north British climate can only be imagined.

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Up on the ridge is Housesteads fort, the Latin name of which was probably Vercovicium. It was built to house a milliary cohort of Infantry (about 800 men). One of the units known to have been stationed here was the Cohors I Tungrorum, from the Low Countries.

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The view south back down into the valley. The main Roman east-west road, the Stanegate, runs down there, together with the modern road. To the right is the Principia, or HQ building. A little further on is the Praetorium, or CO's house.

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A street between 2 barrack blocks. In the 2nd and 3rd centuries these were long buildings divided into 10 rooms, each providing accommodation for a contubernia of 8 men, plus a suite of rooms at the end forming the centurion's accommodation. What we see here are the 4th century replacements, rows of individual "chalet" type buildings.

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The north gate.

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The east gate. To the right can just be seen part of Housesteads wood and Housesteads crags, where the wall makes for the high ground.

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About 1/3 of a mile along lie the remains of milecastle 37, Housesteads.

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The north wall and gate are remarkably well-preserved.

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We continue to follow the wall westwards.

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Looking back east towards Housesteads crags and Housesteads wood.

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Occasionally the wall drops down into gaps in the Whill Sill known as Nicks. Looking back east. The wall here has been reformed into a modern field wall which is why it seems so narrow, especially at the top. The full width of the wall can be seen further east at the top. Climbing down into and back out of these nicks was hard on my knees! This section is known as Hotbank Crags. The local stiles take the form of stepladders over the dry stone walls. Climbing over dry stone walls damages them and annoys the farmer.

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First glimpse of Crag Lough.

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Looking east at the grassy lump that is Milecastle 38. The wall tapers away just by the wood, to be replaced by a field wall. Behind us to the west the wall dips down into Milking Gap, where a farm track passes through the wall.

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Crag Lough.

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Highshield Crags, above Crag Lough.

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A bit of a drop.

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The crumbling field wall on the left follows the line of the wall.

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Sycamore Gap - this place features in the film "Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves", though according to the chronology of that film it must lie somewhere south of Sherwood Forest.
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The path seems to disappear but in fact zig-zags down the cliff. The wet stones are treacherous though.

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The wall and the path climb out of Sycamore Gap.

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Looking back east at Sycamore Gap.

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The remains of shielings - medieval sheep shelters built in the lee of the wall.

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Milecastle 39, Castle Nick. The internal buildings are 4th century replacements of the original barrack blocks.

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This is the damage that walking on the wall does :(

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Peel gap from Peel Crag: The square footing is the base of a Roman turret that was added after the construction of the wall, exactly half way between the primary turrets east and west It was only discovered during wall clearance in 1986.. A medieval pele tower, after which the gap is probably named, was also built against the wall here..

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The Wall goes towards the car park, behind the trees on the right.

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After disappearing over this cliff.

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Believe it or not this is the footpath down. Quite a strain on tired knees and over rocks slick with rain. About 5 minutes after reaching the car, the weather changed from drizzle with the occasional shower to a full northern downpour, so I was very glad to have reached shelter!
 
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Thanks for such an awesome trip report, the pictures were great as was the history lesson.
 
Every time you post pictures of your walks, it just makes me long for home.
 
Very nice thread AWUK. Great photos and a nice history lesson as well. The soft foggy atmosphere gives a brooding overtone to the whole story you present. I thoroughly enjoyed your post!
 
Can't thank you enough for taking the time to post this thread.

WOW - I wish I could see this in person.
 
Thanks for all the comments! :)
As a matter of interest I walked past the sites of a number of turrets, there were 2 between each milecastle. However none on that stretch of wall have photographeable remains.
This link has photos of turrets including T52a, the westernmost visible turret on the wall, which I visited earlier in the day.
http://www.visitcumbria.com/car/banks-east-turret.htm
 
Excellent thread. I love seeing other countries history in modern pictures. :thumbup:
 
Great post amigo.

Its been about 15 years since I walked the wall (half my life ago!) and you really brought back some good memories.

Looked like perfect walking weather in my books.
 
Great post amigo.

Its been about 15 years since I walked the wall (half my life ago!) and you really brought back some good memories.

Looked like perfect walking weather in my books.
TBH, it was too warm! :D In spite of the wind and rain, I was sweating like mad.
 
Great stuff buddy, I always appreciate the time you put into your informative posts !
 
A few extras:

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This is the westernmost exposed turret on the wall, T52a Banks East. The wall was originally built of turf in this sector, with stone turrets. The stone wall visible here was added later and is narrow gauge. You can see the straight joint between the wall and the turret which shows they are not contemporary.

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The remains of the Pike Hill signal tower, close to the turret above. This tower was built perhaps a generation before the wall, as an observation point for the fort in the valley to the south. It was later incorporated into the wall, though it lies at an angle of about 45 degrees to it. It's deep foundations suggest it was taller than a wall turret. The road runs here on the berm between the wall and the defensive ditch that runs in front of it. The dry stone wall opposite sits on the lip of the ditch, screening it from view.

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View north from Pike Hill.

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Fine stretch of wall near Birdoswald Fort.

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A phallic "good luck" symbol carved on the wall.

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The south portal of the west gate of Birdoswald fort, blocked in antiquity. The large wooden posts beyond and to the left indicate where a timber hall was built over the site of the granaries in the 5th century, decades after the end of Roman rule.

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The wall running eastwards from the north-east corner of Housesteads fort. In the bottom of the dip, half way to the small wood, you can see the Knag Burn gate, a fortified gateway put through the wall in the late Roman period, probably to avoid the steep slope north of the fort's north gate. Further to the right in the valley was the fort's bath house, close to the water supply. Bath houses were almost always outside forts rather than inside.
 
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I love these posts AWUK! The history/geography combo just strikes a chord with me. Thanks for taking us with you on your walks.
 
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