want to buy a new sharpener for my new zt 551 that arrives tomorrow

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Jun 3, 2009
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so i finally found a zt 551 and it should be here tomorrow. since my tax return came in i am also looking to buy a new sharpener. i have the paper wheels, lansky, ceramic rods, hb belt sander. i am looking at the wicked edge but that is a lot of money to spend. any recommendations or warnings? thanks
 
Edge pro apex 4. Comes with everything you need to get a laser sharp mirror polished edge for around 230 dollars. It's the last sharpening system you'll ever need. I absolutely love mine, and wouldn't give it up for anything.. Here's my edges after using it:


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Edge pro apex 4. Comes with everything you need to get a laser sharp mirror polished edge for around 230 dollars. It's the last sharpening system you'll ever need. I absolutely love mine, and wouldn't give it up for anything..
+2 on the Edge Pro Apex 4. :thumbup:
 
Sounds to me like you are already pretty well set up now. Save your money for the upcoming ZT/Hinderer flipper.:)
so i finally found a zt 551 and it should be here tomorrow. since my tax return came in i am also looking to buy a new sharpener. i have the paper wheels, lansky, ceramic rods, hb belt sander. i am looking at the wicked edge but that is a lot of money to spend. any recommendations or warnings? thanks
 
Edge pro! I have had mine for five years and nothing compares to the wicked edge you can get.
 
dieselpusher6262, are you having a problem with using the wheels? you should be able to put a wicked edge on the zt with them. if you have a problem with using the wheels i would be glad to help you out with them.
 
You can get some great edges on the EP, refined enough to do this.

ELMAX Sharpened to 6000 grit on the EP.

The hair is a measured .001" thick

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The EdgePro is an excellent, time-tested system. But I like the Wicked Edge better. It's faster, more precise and less messy. It's a pleasure to clamp a knife in place and then be able to work on it from both sides with absolute precision.
 
just got my knife and already i am quite impressed. the paper wheels havent worked out great for me, at least not on my zt 300, i like them for putting a quick finish just on the edge, but i am looking for something to create the bevels of the first posters pictures. i would like a uniformly thick, mirror polished bevel. something so sharp that it would smack normal sharp in the face for sharing the name. also on my 300, with the exception of a bevel that changes thickness that knife will easily shave hair (so much soo that i am running out arm hair) but my brand spanking 551 nothing. no big deal, but i would like the sharpness of my 300 but with a bevel so perfect that if a stranger saw it, they would be complied to call there mom to describe the most beautiful thing they had ever layed eyes on. wish full thinking but you have to aim hi.
 
The Edge Pro makes picture perfect edges, no doubt about that. However, I feel the system is a bit too "high maintenance" for me. Being a lazy person, I don't particularly enjoy having to go through the whole routine of making sure the angle is actually at 15 degrees per side(due to the fact that the largest flat angle the blade is resting on is usually not a 90 degree angle), the constant watering, the need to flatten the stones, the need to retape the table as the water loosens the painter's tape or the stone eats away the tape. Nope, definitely don't want to go through all that every time I sharpen a knife.

My current sharpener for the past few months is my WorkSharp Knife & Tool Sharpener. The included belts are quite limited and I don't even touch them anymore. With a full range of aftermarket Micro-Mesh MX belts(the biggest kink in the system) however, I have complete control over the grit and sharpening speed of the system. I can simply use the fine grit belts for touchups, or go over to the coarse belts for reprofiling(have to watch the heat carefully though). I found the system to be more forgiving of mistakes than the paper wheels, and my edges looked much prettier as well(though not as perfectly pretty as the Edge Pro admittedly). And you DO need practice to avoid rounding off the tip or making an ugly grind, I am now confident enough with the system to use it to sharpen $400+ knives like my Galyean Pro Turbulence(did nick the handles a little though), my Large Sebenza 21 with unique graphic and cabochan inlay, my XM-18, my SR-1, my Yuna Mini Hard 2, and my R.J. Martin Overkill in S110V. Speaking of which, I damaged the tip section slightly on that Overkill when I accidentally cut into the concrete floor, and it took all of 5-10 minutes to fix that up and bring it back to a mirror polish. Reprofiling S90V takes maybe twice as long, but I suspect resharpening a dull edge would only take the standard 5-10 minutes.

So long as you closely watch the burr formation, there shouldn't be any concern of excessive metal removal. And I never found heat to be any more of a problem than on my paper wheels. It's not quite as loud as the wheels, and it takes up about only 1/3 of the space(a fact no one can argue). Every edge will also be at least slightly convexed, though I sincerely doubt there's much difference in edge retention between a V grind, mostly because the belts don't have enough flex to make it really convexed.
 
the wheels are what you want then if you want real sharp. i sharpened a members scrap yard on them and he told me that he was scared to play with it now. a high polished edge looks nice but read what stevenkelby said about a high polished edge in my paper wheel thread. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ime-is-important-to-you?p=9207988#post9207988

Linked below is a picture of the Scrapyard Regulator Richard is referring to. He put this edge using just a low grit wheel, followed by buffing with the slotted wheel. It must have taken him not more than 10 minutes from start to finish, because he called just before and after the sharpening.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59741147@N02/5627840654/in/photostream/

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Below is a close up of the edge. While it looks somewhat polished, it has plenty of bite. You can see the grit marks in the bevel.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59741147@N02/5627840286/in/photostream/

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The knife is hair popping sharp and a careless touch always draws blood. It push cuts newsprint. The edge is also extremely durable and remains sharp after rough use.

I had a similar experience with a Khukri sharpened by Richard on paper wheels in 2009. It was never resharpened since, and I have used it extensively to chop hard wood and brambles. It still shaves all along the edge.

If you nail the technique down, paper wheels can produce sharp, durable and functional edges.
 
i talked to a member who bought the worksharp and he totally ruined a knife even after following the directions. before he contacted me he had bought a set of wheels and was using them with great results but wanted to know if i could give him some more tips. i told him if he ever needed any more help to contact me. i have not heard from him so i guess he has been doing ok with the wheels.

what an edge looks like has nothing to do with how it cuts. an old man who worked on harleys told me a long time ago that chrome wont make a harley go any faster and i think the same can apply to a knife and how it cuts.
 
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i talked to a member who bought the worksharp and he totally ruined a knife even after following the directions. before he contacted me he had bought a set of wheels and was using them with great results but wanted to know if i could give him some more tips. i told him if he ever needed any more help to contact me. i have not heard from him so i guess he has been doing ok with the wheels.

what an edge looks like has nothing to do with how it cuts. an old man who worked on harleys told me a long time ago that chrome wont make a harley go any faster and i think the same can apply to a knife and how it cuts.
Again, that raises the question of whether said member used the included belts or aftermarket belts. I feel the included belts, particularly the P60 and P220 are far too aggressive for anything but the dullest of edges(actually, he should just throw the P60 belt away entirely:thumbup:). Also, it could just be my imagination, but even the P220 belt seems to generate more heat than my coarse 60MX Micro-Mesh belt. Not hard to imagine ruining a blade like that.

As for the extra polished edge, I don't see a reason not to given that it really only takes another 5 minutes to do so. If desired, you can simply use the 240MX belt to raise a burr, and finish off with the 600MX belt. Farid had also mentioned to me that a polished edge is required for S125V and 15V. I suspect it's because the hard vanadium carbides makes burr removal near impossible at coarse grits. And jumping grits might not be enough to remove a large burr on said steels.
 
i talked to a member who bought the worksharp and he totally ruined a knife even after following the directions. before he contacted me he had bought a set of wheels and was using them with great results but wanted to know if i could give him some more tips. i told him if he ever needed any more help to contact me. i have not heard from him so i guess he has been doing ok with the wheels.

It doesn't really help the discussion to start the "I heard someone ruined their knife using XX sharpener" does it?
 
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