Want to make a folder shorter

rpttrsn

rpttrsn

Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Messages
1,347
I have just purchased a CKF Gratch Flipper with a M390 steel blade. The length is longer then I like for a EDC folder. The price was right so I took a chance. My ideal length is 3 1/4" - 3 1/2" for the blade length. I know the blade is only 3 3/4" but again a bit long for my liking. I realy like the quality of this knife and would like to shorten it about 1/4". I have been a machinest most of my life and have made straight knives ( 01 tool steel with micarta handles)many years ago from scratch. The only thing I had done on the outside was the heat treating. The Gratch has anodized liners and back spacer.
My concern is grinding the blade without loosing the heat treatment. I have a 1x42" kalamazoo belt grinder which I sharpen all my knives on. I am aware of not overheating the blade and was going to use only new belts and a lot of dipping in water. Removing material a small amount at a time.
I would be looking for someone to anodize the titanium when I was done. Any holes that would need to be drilled and tapped in a new area would not be a problem. I am retired for 8 years and do not have access to a milling machine any longer. To counterbore holes I use my drill press and either a end mill or flat bottom drill that I sharpen for that purpose. The frame can be shortened with a saw and finished on the belt sander.
What problems should I anticipate? One of the areas of concern was the thickness of the blade at the tip and the recess for the pocket clip since it only uses one screw. After looking at the knife I wonder if I should just leave it alone, but the idea of shortening keeps returning.
Thanks for any info.
Ron
P1030338-vi.jpg
 
Honestly, unless you want a major project, I would say sell it and and buy something that fits your needs better.

If you are set on this, you will simply need to reprofile the blade in such a manner as to keep the tip in the same position or move it slightly higher up on the bevel to maintain close to the same thickness.

Also be careful working the liners, as the locking portion has also been heated and bent to provide detent and the spring action required for the liner to move into place as a lock.

Unless the clip head is recessed, the clip will probably move left to right and could work the screw out with only one screw holding it in place.
 
I sure isn't a project for an inexperienced maker. If you think it's a go ahead as you wrote, then just do it. You will end up with one heck of a mess that should go to the garbage.
Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
I sure isn't a project for an inexperienced maker. If you think it's a go ahead as you wrote, then just do it. You will end up with one heck of a mess that should go to the garbage.
Frank
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Thanks for the confidence booster Frank. The only thing I am worried about is keeping the blade cool enough as not to loose the heat treatment. Like I said before I have made about 7 straight folders making my own corby bolts out of SS and brass along with sheaths for each. I not new at maching all types of metal. Many of my folders have been modified and if you did not know how they looked before you would not know it was changed.
 
gatorforge said:
Honestly, unless you want a major project, I would say sell it and and buy something that fits your needs better.

If you are set on this, you will simply need to reprofile the blade in such a manner as to keep the tip in the same position or move it slightly higher up on the bevel to maintain close to the same thickness.

Also be careful working the liners, as the locking portion has also been heated and bent to provide detent and the spring action required for the liner to move into place as a lock.

Unless the clip head is recessed, the clip will probably move left to right and could work the screw out with only one screw holding it in place.
Click to expand...

Thanks for replying. Yes the head is recessed on the clip and I would have to do this to the scale. I would only be removing material from the rear of the handle.
A project does not bother me as it's quite cold here and working in my shop is where I spend alot of time in the winter. I have over 60 pocket knives and this one I like the best except for the size.
Thanks again for your info.
Ron
 
Keeping the blade cool shouldn't be a huge problem... just use sharp/fresh belts, light pressure, and dunk in some water to cool it every pass. The last bit of polishing/finishing you'll likely want to do by hand anyway, to blend the finish.

Shortening the handle proportionately would be the biggest challenge, though if you're just taking a 1/4" off of the blade, you may not even want to touch the handle.
 
knife to a gunfight said:
Keeping the blade cool shouldn't be a huge problem... just use sharp/fresh belts, light pressure, and dunk in some water to cool it every pass. The last bit of polishing/finishing you'll likely want to do by hand anyway, to blend the finish.

Shortening the handle proportionately would be the biggest challenge, though if you're just taking a 1/4" off of the blade, you may not even want to touch the handle.
Click to expand...
Thanks for responding Drew. The handle is also quite long and this is also an issue. I keep wondering if the knife's closed length would still be longer then I wanted by only removing 1/4". Doesn't seem like much on this knife. As you can see I am still at odds at doing this to this great looking knife IMO. Still every few days my mind goes back to this project. I have been carrying my Brad Southard due to the handle vs. blade length. I think this knife has the best blade to handle ratio of the knives I own. If this blade had a flat grind I would not have been looking for my perfect EDC. Decisions, decesions.
Ron
 
Hi Ron,

Gotta agree with Drew, the handle certainly seems like the more difficult piece of the puzzle. I can uncle stand the handle to blade proportions aesthetic, why I don't buy many Emmersons.

Lance
 
1/4" ? I'm picky about things but gosh man, that's not really worth it IMO. It's not going to make much of a difference at all and you could really screw it up. I wouldn't do it, especially being a $400 discontinued knife.

That's some hard steel and you'd definitely want to use a fresh belt or a diamond file. The thing I'd be super careful about is only grinding/removing steel from the spine. If you used a belt with super low grit(36 grit) the grit might come in contact with the sides. Definitely use tape, fo super slow, and dip frequently. If you can, grind wet.
 
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JG Custom Metal Works said:
1/4" ? I'm picky about things but gosh man, that's not really worth it IMO. It's not going to make much of a difference at all and you could really screw it up. I wouldn't do it, especially being a $400 discontinued knife.

That's some hard steel and you'd definitely want to use a fresh belt or a diamond file. The thing I'd be super careful about is only grinding/removing steel from the spine. If you used a belt with super low grit(36 grit) the grit might come in contact with the sides. Definitely use tape, for super slow, and dip frequently. If you can, grind wet.
Click to expand...

Everything you said has been going through my mind from the start. I really like this knife except for the length. I guess I will sit on this and try some more carry time to see if I can get use to it. Thanks for your imput.
Ron
 
Well then, as a competent maker , why not make one the size you want in the same design? There wouldn't be any patent or copywrite problems if you only make one and don't offer it for sale.
Frank
 
rpttrsn said:
Not worth a reply.
Click to expand...

He replied.

And it is a fair point. Even for a competent maker, shortening a handle like that would be a tricky thing to do, and if you mess up you will destroy the value of the knife. If you're looking for something so specific that 1/4 really matters, I would advise making your own or getting a maker to build one to spec.
 
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